1992 Patrol electric window problem

[dannal]

Mum and her fella have just purchased a 1992 Patrol. The rear RHS power window winds down but not up. I have tried swapping a few things around and am 99% sure that I can rule out the switch and the mechanism. I suspect either the motor or the wiring between the switch and the motor but have no idea how to test or confirm.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

[AB]

There's a thread somewhere in here mate. I'll see if I can find it for you.

Don't forget to put up an intro about yourself in the introductions section.

[dannal]

Thanks AB. I wasn't courteous enough to read the rules before I posted (I am sooo lazy!) but I did search for a while for my problem on the site. I found one relating to electric windows but it wasn't the same problem.

Cheers!

[Yendor]

If the window went down the problem can not be with the electric window motor.

Did you try swapping the RHS rear window switch with the LHS window switch?

More then likely your problem is in the master switch in the drivers side door, all electric window run through this switch.

On the back of the master switch in the driver side door find the Green with a Black trace wire, back probe this with a voltmeter.

With the ignition on, work the up switch from the RHR door, if the voltmeter read 12 or so volts then your problem it within the master switch.

Some people have been able to pull the master switch apart and clean the contacts in the switch.

[dannal]

Did you try swapping the RHS rear window switch with the LHS window switch?

Not yet. I did swap the top of the switch around so that up was down and down was up. The window still only wound down though.

More then likely your problem is in the master switch in the drivers side door, all electric window run through this switch.

Are you talking about the master switch on the driver's door (front) where there are the switches for all 4 doors?

Some people have been able to pull the master switch apart and clean the contacts in the switch.

I cleaned the switch contact in the rear door but will do as you suggested with the front driver's door.

Cheers!

[Yendor]

Not yet. I did swap the top of the switch around so that up was down and down was up. The window still only wound down though.

I would try swapping the switches first.

Are you talking about the master switch on the driver's door (front) where there are the switches for all 4 doors?

Yes,

I suspect the contacts for the RHR window are dirty in this master switch.

[dannal]

The windows are now working flawlessly. The bloke at the battery place used to be an auto electrician and was able to locate a bad fusible link. Once replaced, the motor ran completely different and all of the electrics worked including the alternator.

Thanks for your help :-)

[pattersd]

I have had the problem since the 1st trip to the Cape, great to find some advice to follow. Now to tear th door apart .... again

[no eye deer]

Mine have been apart so many times, the wood is falling to bits!!
Still got no RHS window!!

[Robo]

The switches for drivers door is a master and the rest are linked via a controller box if ya follow.
Box is in driver door from memory.

If elec motors works at all, then you should be able to rule them out as the problem.
These motors spin forward and reverse directly, no gearbox to change direction.
So if you connect direct to 12v power you can test it works in both direction simply by swappen wires.
+ to neg and then swap polarity and mtr should spin the other way.
If motor only works in 1 direction connected directly to a battery then its the motor, but doubt you will find this is happening.

So if motors work, then switches are the next place to look.
these are really simple to clean/lube, and test with a multi metre.
they are a simple contact points setup.
You may find grease has simply contaminated contacts.
A quick disassemble of switch, clean with say elec contact spray and a clean rag.

Points can be burnt, a little rub, fine file, maintaining flat contact shape surface to freshen up.
And a pce of fine wet n dry wrapped over end of file to clean where you cant file inside switch housing.
Re-clean/ flush with spray and clean rag.
The spring loaded ball and the area it contacts are the only places to carefully lube inside the switch.
A solid lubricant like dielectric grease, carefully and sparingly applied here should be used so not to re-contaminate contacts again.
The underside of rocker arm is an electric contact point also, so don't allow lube on here.
Don't use a spray grease to easy to bring things undone again.

Reassemble and check with multi metre.
You should find all good again, if not contacts are still open and may need a little tweak to re-establish contact again.
doubt it though, only if you file to much off you could strike this as a problem.
but really you should of only had to of used the file for say 2 passes to clean points enough.
There is more to check but I recon you will find problem solved here as it is a very common problem.
and just about every pat and mav has had this at some stage.
Cheers.