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29th January 2012, 02:42 PM
#1
Patrol Freak
GU Window Switch Problems
The power window switches seem to be a problem on most GU Patrols. I have pulled mine appart, cleaned them and even used contact grease (a conductive carbon grease) on the switch contacts - but nothing seems to work.
Does anyone know of a real fix or of an aftermarket replacement? No use buying a genuine Nissan part in this case because as far as I can tell they are just not very good.
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29th January 2012 02:42 PM
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30th January 2012, 01:07 AM
#2
Does the switch actually test ok with a multi meter?,with switch removed from car.
Have you tried checking the earth, from switch and to it's earth point, maybe the problem lays here.
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30th January 2012, 03:42 AM
#3
Legendary
sounds like it is in the master switch in drivers door . checkthe printed board for dammage and solder any cracks and breaks
you will need a magnifing glass to see any cracks
2007 GU 6 /ST-L / MYO8 / DIESEL/AUTO /MOONSTONE /pro vent 200
OH LEATHER IS NICE
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30th January 2012, 02:16 PM
#4
I had a similar problem with my front pasanger side window, ended up being the master switch in the drivers door, may pay to check that out.
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30th January 2012, 05:31 PM
#5
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
Robo
Does the switch actually test ok with a multi meter?,with switch removed from car.
Have you tried checking the earth, from switch and to it's earth point, maybe the problem lays here.
Problem with testing it with an ohm meter is it may look like a good connection - but when current is required to flow through it, it still may not work under load.
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30th January 2012, 05:33 PM
#6
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
whitey
I had a similar problem with my front pasanger side window, ended up being the master switch in the drivers door, may pay to check that out.
Didn't think of that because the master switch is the only one that WILL work (sometimes). Does the wiring for all the window switches go via the master switch?
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30th January 2012, 05:35 PM
#7
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
my third
sounds like it is in the master switch in drivers door . checkthe printed board for dammage and solder any cracks and breaks
you will need a magnifing glass to see any cracks
As above, is the wiring common?
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30th January 2012, 05:35 PM
#8
Originally Posted by
BillsGU
Didn't think of that because the master switch is the only one that WILL work (sometimes). Does the wiring for all the window switches go via the master switch?
Yes, they do.
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21st November 2012, 01:23 PM
#9
Patrol Freak
After months of mucking around and cleaning contacts and using ohm meters and everything else I can think of, the useless switches STILL do not work right. It usually involves lots of switching in each direction to get them working. Does anyone know of a replacement switch at a reasonable price?
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23rd November 2012, 09:05 AM
#10
If you can get the pcb out and on its own, put it on an oven tray upside down, soldiered side up, chucking in the oven at 190c minimum for around five or so minutes. This will re-melt the soldier( I think the solder needs an ambient temp of 160c to soften) on the pcb to make sure they all have good connection.
Sound wierd yes. But its and old trick done with computers graphics cards for when they have been runnnig hot for a very long time. I have repaired dozens of computer components doing this so it may be worth a shot. I once bought a graphics card stuffed for $50, working it would selll for $600, I stripped it, chucked it in the oven and I'm still using it now. If you have to replace it you may aswell try this. But make sure all the plastic parts are of the pcb.
Just google the oven trick and read for your self.
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