Mudski GU Build Thread

[mudski]

SO I thought its time to start up a thread. I've had The Dunger since April 2012 and he's changed a fair bit.
It a 2001 GUII and came with a ZD30 Direct Injection 3ltr, manual trans a sagged 2inch OME lift, bald 31's, ARB Bar and 9500lb TJM winch.
Forgive me for the lack of shots. I cannot for the life of me find the pics of it when I picked it up. But I do have more as progress started on the build up....
This is pretty close to the early stages of when I bought it. Except it had no window tint, the OEM scoop and the rims were a very old and bad looking silver. The tyres on it in the pic I picked up for a steal on fleabay. Five tyres on rims, one brand new at 10mm tread depth, the others at 9mm. All for $399! The car looked like a pregnant rollerskate but mate they did the job. I wasn't gonna wreck a good set of KM2's on the black top. Funny thing is I sold the five rims and tyres around 30k later for $500. Hehe!


So I'll just fast forward to now. Since then heres a list of stuff I have done.

• Added the Full NAD's to the motor.
• McNally Boost and EGT gauge
• Larger intercooler
• Catch can
• HPD Billet MAF housing and Hi Flow air box lid
• 3inch Redback exhaust, muffler removed
• White dial facing

• Front recovery points, see here....http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ecovery-plates
• New remote central locking system to replace the defunked Ni$$an crap...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...der-20-minutes
• Made a hidden glove box compartment...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ve-box-mod-DIY
• 3inch Flexy coils
• 4inch Tough Dog 45mm Adjustable shocks
• Drop boxes
• Adjustable Panhards front and rear
• 10mm longer rear lower control arms
• adjustable rear upper control arms
• 75Ltr Aux tank
• Full braided brake lines
• Ctek 250dual dc-dc charger
• Rear LED lights in the barn doors, effing handy these are....

• 2Din head unit with GPS, BT, reversing camera etc etc
• GUIV black leather steering wheel
• Electric brake controller
• Ally roof rack with a 42inch Light bar mount under it.
• A 2.5m ARB side awning
• A ARB rear awning
• LED driving lights ( best invention ever!)
• Front Air locker
• Custom made Projector headlights with HID's and LED angel eyes
• BFG 285/75/R16 AT's for the road
• BFG 315/70/R16 KM2's for the tracks
• Customs made, well home made, rear drawers

Then as of late I decided to take the mighty expensive plunge and get a TD42 fully rebuilt and put in. But man I love it now, I need not to worry about the stupid MAF sensor getting dirty, the more stupid serpentine belt and tensioner shitty itself everytime water hits it and the bloody limp mode saga's. I was actually to worried to take the thing out to anywhere even sort of remote, as I had that thought always sitting there in the back of my mind, when will my cards be laid on the table and I will need a tow home.... But having said all that, I had the lil ZD screaming and going really good in the end. It pulled the camper really well...

So here he is now...



Projects on the list are...

• TB48 front brake conversion. I have everything ready, apart from pads (on order from Nissan in Japan), and rotors. Prolly get DBA dimple drilled and slotted ones...
• Rear tube bar
• and I'd love a Hi mount winch.
• 4inch intake system too.

Thanks for looking.

[nissannewby]

Needs a good 4" induction track too

[jay see]

So why Arthur.

[mudski]

Needs a good 4" induction track too

Yes thats on my list of things to do too... Lol More...

So why Arthur.

Because I originally called it my dunger. Because it was one.... Lol. After this great character.

[mudski]

I started to make up a mount for the Carter lift pump I will install...

So the pump will sit in this bracket and i will wrap some heavy rubber around it to protect it all.
I just need to figure out the best way for the wiring. Some just wire it straight into the ignition. This is the easiest as there is easy access to ignition power via the rear wiper motor. But this means the pump will run if I turn the ignition on to say test something. I could run an override switch. But this means a manual switch on the dash, don't want this...
Next option is to use an oil pressure switch. Say a 10psi normally open switch. Issue with this, the only port left of the block is right behind the alternator and its a allen key grub screw by the looks of it. I can barely get my hands in their.
I then thought maybe could I use the Redarc oil pressure switch for my gauge? But how? I was thinking in my head to pickup the signal wire, that is activated when the motor starts and oil pressure builds up, and run this via a relay?
Would this work?

I finally got a new oil pressure switch from Redarc to replace the faulty one. Finally works. But for how long. lol.

[mudski]

Here's my TB48 calipers all rebuilt with two new pistons. Red and ready to go....I have the backing plates too. Just waiting on the larger master cylinder, OEM pads and I need to decide on what rotors to use. These is also a new rhs stub axle to go in. As I couldn't figure out why the bearing would always go out of adjustment. The inner bearing was wearing into the stub where the hub seal runs. The LHS did this a year or so back. Replaced it and all good.
I think when its time to do all this I will remove the rear calipers at the same time and rebuild them too. Then I know its all done...

[mudski]

New master cylinder and OEM pads have arrived. Just need to order the rotors, have enough beer on hand, and find the time to do the swap over. Looking forward to this....

[mudski]

Ok so i think i have too many projects on the go now.
The tb48 brake upgrade, wire in and install the lift pump and now i have decided to remove the 4way relay box in the engine bay and utilise the 5 spare spaces in the oem relay box next to the main battery. Lol

[mudski]

So i went to the wreckers and bought a relay box for $30, stripped it down and now i have to graft the new wiring in from the current relays i want to add.
But once done i thinj it will turn out good. And no extra relays in the engine bay. All in the one spot.
uploadfromtaptalk1449278773557.jpg
All stripped and readyto work out... lol more work.
uploadfromtaptalk1449278839951.jpg

[mudski]

Looms are made up and ready to go in. I just need to remove the battery and pull out the relay box for fitment of the new looms.

I realised i have a spare 5 pin relay port in the box so i will also use this aswell for any relays that require 5 pins.