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Thread: Mudski GU Build Thread

  1. #951
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    Mark, this device might be a bit less cumbersome, I bought a cheapie like this and a more expensive unit - I also have some leaks and plan to dive into root cause as well.
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/395301005433

    The more expensive unit I sourced from the UK has a higher amp value, circa 80amp from memory but this parasitic load is going to be easility handled by this cheper unit provided it has the resolution I guess
    Yep I have one on the way to me. Hopefully soon.
    So I’ve pulled every fuse out I have and it’s still there.
    I did unplug the two wire plug from the alternator and nothing changed but I think I have to take the main wire from the back off it to properly check. Which is a pain to do as my intake pipe sits right over the top of it. But I must do it.


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  2. #952
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    Could be a pile of very small loads adding up and not detectable by the meter? I have a 0.1amp parasitic load in the POD - not going to chase that as it could be from a number of electronic devices that are simply sipping the power to keep background circuits alive.

  3. #953
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    I just spent a while reading the GU power delivery diagrams. They don't make it clear in the General Information section if the 100amp protection device is a fuse, circuit breaker or fusible link. If the Gu has fusible links at the battery terminal, then disconnect them. If not and you have pulled the higher amperage fuses, and relays and still get parasitic draw, then my money is on the alternator.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to mudnut For This Useful Post:

    PeeBee (16th December 2024)

  5. #954
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    I just spent a while reading the GU power delivery diagrams. They don't make it clear in the General Information section if the 100amp protection device is a fuse, circuit breaker or fusible link. If the Gu has fusible links at the battery terminal, then disconnect them. If not and you have pulled the higher amperage fuses, and relays and still get parasitic draw, then my money is on the alternator.
    Hi Craig.

    I totally disconnected the alternator and had no change at all.
    So I do have another battery that sits on a float charge from a 10amp solar panel via a controller.
    I rigged this up to the Patrol in the same fashion as if it were the main battery.
    Strange thing happened.
    With the original battery being tested. The neg lead disconnected and the DMM probes to the neg of the battery and the neg lead to the car, I open the door to activate the interior light, nothing happens. No light comes on. But the DMM readings will fluctuate from .10a up to nearly 1amp.

    hook up to the spare battery, the dmm readings drop to zero and when I open the door, the light comes on and I get a reading of .12amp on the DMM.

    I’m not expert but this tells me it’s the battery.

    Tonight i will disconnect the starter and see what happens.

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    Last edited by mudski; 17th December 2024 at 07:37 AM.

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    mudnut (17th December 2024), PeeBee (17th December 2024)

  7. #955
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Maybe a cell has failed or the battery has been damaged by being discharged too low. Very rarely, but batteries can have internal current draw, too.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

  8. #956
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    New battery on the way today. Hopefully no more issues.

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    mudnut (18th December 2024)

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