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So leading from the thread "quick transfer case question" I decided to start my own thread. The web was kind to me to make my silly pictures visible after a days struggle. There is two reasons I post here and they are to "raid the FSM" and because I have not found what I think I can post elsewhere here on this forum. I replied to above thread after somebody asked if there was some one with an open transfer case. That happens to be me and then the obvious request for the pictures.
I would like the MODs to move all I had to say from above thread to compliment this thread as it contain some background info on my vehicle.
Last edited by NissanGQ4.2; 24th July 2013 at 06:43 PM.
Reason: Added link 2 other thread
I will not go into the details of how I removed the TC nor the methods of how I took it apart as this will cause great laughter. Take note that I am not familiar with the respective gears or shafts ito the naming convention, a gear is a gear as for shafts. So here goes for the first picture.
This is Bundu my 1983 Safari 2.8 petrol. The second pic you see the unbreakable Bundu, my Mangheti meerkat (TLC 4.5 EFI petrol) and last but not least the white elephant alias measles or small pox. Hidden is the king of the continent, a landrover, 90 defender 2.8 BMW engine.
The GU TC consist of three main casing parts. I took it apart the way a jackal would eat a sheep, from the rear to the front, the easy way. The first part after the handbrake drum is mainly a cover to shield the chain that drives the front prop shaft. Note that it is a good idea to remove the speedo unit just behind the brake drum first before taking off the cover. That would be the yellow gear in these pics. The flange onto which the rear prop shaft bolts to also needs to be removed first of all. In my case it was one hell of a task with lots of improvising, so I think it is really better to break the grip on that nut while the box is still mounted to the main box before removal.
For those that needs to know what the TC looks like (middle row) and with ref to the sections refer to. This is the TC pic taken from the top looking down at it when in the car. AT the bottom is the rear prop shaft flange. The nut holding that flange is a real bitch to get loose. You must improvise a tool (if you dont have the SST) to grip those flange bolts to lever onto when trying to turn that nut. Use penetrating oil to assist.
Ths section here marries with what is seen in the previous post. The slack on the chain does not bother me at the least. I believe this is a part that will not easily cause noise or jumps or even stretch as some may believe. If the Japs thought it may be a problem they would have installed a tensioner. This is a wide chain with small links, running over big diameter gears of approximately same size if not.
I would like the MODs to move all I had to say from above thread to compliment this thread as it contain some background info on my vehicle.
Hi mate, I can move your other thread over 2 here but don't really see the need.
I have however linked your other thread in your original post so if people click on "quick transfer case question" it will take them to that thread
If you really want me to transfer the info across let me know and I will do it but be warned your other thread posts will take priority over this one as when we merge threads together it works on date and time and there is really nothing we can do about it.
Cheers
Toddie
Last edited by NissanGQ4.2; 24th July 2013 at 07:13 PM.
Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time
Thanks very much bundu. Do you see anything that resembles an oil pump or something that applies lubricant to the rear drive shaft bearing?
Hi Parsky. Yes, I will post pictures of it soon, so keep your eyes peeled. I would not describe it as a oil pump for what i have found as yet and further dis assembly still needs to be done of a section that may contain something like an oil pump. What I can see right away is that there is an "oil feeder", a plastic canal sort of thing that canalize oil from a forward section of the box to the rear and spilling oil on that rear bearing or more so on the spiral gear that drives the odo. That gear in my opinion may turn fast enough and in the right direction to cast oil forward onto the back of that bearing. I just want to add that I took a look at this system again. There is definitely no oil pump. A gear in the forward section is large enough to scoop up oil from the bottom of that mid section of the box. It basically just cast the oil onto this plastic canal after which the oil will gravitate to the rear section. Do to the fact that when the TC is mounted to the Main box, the combination of the two sits at a slight downward slope. So when the the car stands/drives on level terrain, the oil will always flow towards the rear of the TC where the chain is located. With pics that is coming this will be very understandable.
Pics of the oiler system in the TC. It is very basic.
Pic 1 as for pic 4 Basically upside down, but the canal is visible. In combo with pic 2 it can be seen that this plastic feeder passes through (pic 3) section 2 to section 1 of the TC and spill oil into a gear that sits the blank part of the visible shaft. The gear in pic 3 throws oil onto the canal and it gravitates from sec 2 to sec 1 (the chain box). Once the chain box has enough oil in it it simply overflows through a lower opening between sec 1 and sec 2 back to sec 2 where the whole cycle repeats itself. Simple. No pressure system at all. That only means trouble anyway.