ADVICE sought PLS... YEP!! ZD30 2003 Nissan Patrol

Hi Team,

I have spoken with Chaz on the forum, in person... who I would like to publicly thank for his genuine concern, guidance and suggestions... Mate, you have been a true champion for me... !!:bigthumbup:

My problem:

ZD30 2003 Nissan Patrol 130K - Beaudesert Exhuast 2 1/2 inch / Dawes Boost Controller / Boost 15 PSI / Needle Valve / Provent 200 / EGR / Lift Pump / Boost Gauges before and after intercooler / EGT Gauge (range 600F @ 100K flat road - 1000F @ 100K uphill...

November 2011 - Simpson Desert - engine light ON with big loss of power - this was intermittent, progressing to ON for remainder of drive home (1000+K) - Nissan air filter - New MAF sensor - New fuel filter changed on the trip - No effect on the warning light

Description of fault - engine light comes ON - big loss of power - turn vehicle OFF - restart - no engine light ON and return of normal power... other times, after restarting engine, warning light still remaining ON and big loss of power still...

December 2011 - Nissan dealership - $120 - P7 injector pump - suggested to replace the injector pump...

January 2012 - Second opinion - $350 - P7 injector pump - suggested to replace the injector pump... 2 days later, vehicle back to normal performance - nothing wrong - all very good

February 2012 - Warning light ON/OFF intermittently without a pattern - sometimes with loss of power and other times without loss of power - no pattern noticed, except MAYBE, if the vehicle is put under load whilst RPM is < 2500 - not sure about this though...

March 2012 - Lift pump close to tank with a small cheap filter before pump - vehicle seems to be driving normal MOST of the time - warning light on dash and big loss of power occasionally - turn vehicle OFF and restart - warning light goes away and return of power - this isn't like LIMP mode where there is a temporary loss of power if ECU recognises 18PSI... unless I have a wrong understanding here...

So now, vehicle has been operational with occasional warning light/power loss - BUT, yesterday... driving home (with light trailer in tow) - sudden rise in EGT and no boost (<5psi)... no warning light ON and no loss of power, other than myself driving with less right foot due to temperatures...

Anybody have ANY ideas what may be wrong OR any guidance toward who to approach, in Queensland, that would be able to fault find this problem... I am NOT convinced (yet) that it is the injector pump... and lean more toward an electrical or other problem...

Thanks for reading and your ideas...!!

Lindon

Mate, this is a bit of a tricky one and good luck sorting this out. The only thing I would suggest is your earth straps/points I have heard these can give some strange faults

Hi Lindon,
Still having problems mate??

NissPat has a good point, check for continuity from battery negative to body/chassis, should be zero ohms.

I would remove the small cheap filter. Any unnecessary restriction in the fuel delivery system will increase the chance of problems. The only time I’ve ever seen a case with similar symptoms was when a friend filled his tank with a jerry can that had quite a lot of rust flakes in it which made their way to the fuel filter and blocked it. His engine was getting an MIL and limp every time he put it under load and then he would turn it off and start again ok with no MIL. We assumed it was water in the fuel, but when we removed the filter, found it was full of rust. 2 filters later and no more problems.
The problem could be electrical, but I’m leaning towards fuel. Not necessarily the pump, but possibly inadequate supply to the pump or air getting into the fuel line. Check the o ring up under the filter head.

The boost and high EGT issue is something else. Check that the actuator arm is lifting up when you start the engine. If not, you either have a vacuum leak or pressure leaking past the Dawes valve. It’s not too uncommon to see the vacuum line split off where it connects to the metal tube just under the front of the intercooler. Check that you have at least 26 to 30”Hg vacuum from the vacuum pump. Even intercooler hoses can split and leak.

Good luck with it mate, and let us know how you go.

Chaz

I would throw in mother board failiure on the computer try swiching computers. Turbo has had it I had to replace mine at 178 000 km similar problems as you described happend to mine. or leaking intercooler or hose

NissPat,

I've checked the earth strap to the motor previously, but will do so again... thanks for the reminder... will get back to you about that... I guess I would be checking the end and giving it a little sandpaper to ensure a contact...? Nothing else would increase the contact that I can think of, yeah...??

Chaz,

1. Zero ohms... roger... I haven't checked that...
2. I'll remove the small filter in front of the lift pump... thought they were supposed to have them in order to protect the pump itself...
3. The fuel filter was fine last time I replaced, but may put a new one on when I place a new o-ring in the head of the filter assembly
4. I haven't noticed any fuel leaks along the lines, even after the pump installed... how else may I check whether there are any leaks... I have exhausted my eyes checking them over, and don't know any other ways... or can't remember if you mentioned on the phone some time...
5. I haven't checked under the intercooler... will do...
6. Will check the actuator arm is lifting when starting...

Thanks Chaz... will keep you posted as to what I find...

Macca86,

1. I plan to pull the turbo to check the bearings at least...
2. I'll check the intercooler for leaks too...
3. If all else fails, I'll look at the mother board... do you know a rough cost of those guys?

Thank you gentlemen...!

Lindon

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Superjuice2072

NissPat,

I've checked the earth strap to the motor previously, but will do so again... thanks for the reminder... will get back to you about that... I guess I would be checking the end and giving it a little sandpaper to ensure a contact...? Nothing else would increase the contact that I can think of, yeah...??

Lindon

---

That sound like the plan mate. it will do the trick

Sounds like Nickpeacocks problem but he has the GU 4/5

Heres a long shot for ya
run a spanner over your injector pipes

just a thought

G'Day mate, i have had the same problem with my own Troll (2002 GU III wagon).

The P7 Code can be thrown up from water or air running into the injector pump past the sensors, not necessarily from a faulty injector pump. My code was caused from air getting into the fuel system as Chaz said
On my Troll i used a little Square Flapper fuel pump (about $40) because they reach just a couple of PSI pressure. I removed the fuel hose from the metal pipe on the chassis rail to the fuel filter and put the pump in line between the two. I then Turned the pump on and walked away for 20-30 mins and let the pressure sit in the lines from the fuel pump through the filter, into the injector pump and injector return line.. When i came back i found a wet spot (that was dripping lol) on the fuel line as it goes into the Injector pump as the line was split.
$10 for a new piece of hose and i have yet to have the code come back (nearly 4 months)

I have also used this method to find a leaking spill line banjo seal inside the rocker cover.

Just remember you dont need a big high pressure pump, only 2-5psi is required if using this method and will generally show up a leak. I have also used the same method on mates and customers cars and works very well in my opinion
Maybe something else to try?

Fletcha

Fletch, that's a great idea.

Lindon, you could try powering up you lift pump without the engine running for the 20 minutes or so and recheck for leaks as per Fletchs suggestion.

Has anyone tried fitting a clear hose on the fuel return line? you would then be able to see if there was any air bubbles in the fuel.

Hi Fellas,

Thanks for the ideas... I've run the lift pump for 30-60 minutes and everything is dry. I can't find any leaks on the lines anywhere. The pump keeps "ticking over" every 3 seconds, but no leaks. Chaz, if the pump achieves a pressure of say 4psi, and there are no leaks in the lines, should it continue to tick over, or should it be relying on a one way valve to hold that 4psi pressure, and hence not need to tick over any further?

As a side note, my auxillary tank got some pin holes in them from rocks, in November. Welded a couple of them, but the tank is still leaking, so will need to fix THAT diesel leak, more...

Back to the pump, the more I listen to you guys, the more I believe the pump is NOT the problem. Considering I can't find any leaks anywhere from the rear, up the lines on the chassis, past the filter head and water separator, nothing around the injector pump and so on, I am continuing to be disheartened by this because nothing is identifiable... Why can't these things be a little more easy? I am not a mechanic and have no real idea what the heck I am doing... I normally work on people's broken bones & illnesses... not 4WDs...

I haven't run any spanners over the injector pipes, but can't see or smell any diesel leak in and around the engine bay, even if minor I should be smelling fresh diesel...surely...??

Big Fletch, thanks for the information... it gives me some hope that I can resolve this issue without paying $4000-8000 for an exchange or new pump, like Nissan and the individual diesel specialists were suggesting. I had to spend $8000 5+ years ago due to water going through the pump.

I've had a look around the vacuum lines, intercooler pipes, dawes valve etc and can't find any hoses split or disconnected. I plan to check the turbo, at some point when I get time.

Will continue to give you feedback for all of your suggestions and guidance.

Thanks guys, I really really REALLY appreciate it, even when frustrated. It keeps giving me a little bit of hope each time. Thanks fellas!! This has been such a mental strain and frustration for months now, particularly when "bucking the trend" or going against suggestions that I should be just replacing the pump and all would be resolved, as the "specialists" have recommended.

Lindon

Hi Lindon,
Interesting observation. When I turn my ignition on in the morning the lift pump clicks over 4 or 5 times and stops. I can't say that I've heard it click over any more than that unless I start the engine. Also the fuel filter manual plunger should be very hard to push after the lift pump has reached it's pressure limit, so see if the manual pump can be operated with the lift pump running and the engine stopped.

Another thing is to keep an eye on your oil level. I say this because if there is a small leak and you can't find it, it could be inside the engine from the spill line. This would dilute your oil over time and raise the oil level. The Patrols fuel sysytem sends the spill line back into the injection pump inlet which would push any air back into the IP. This is the reason that we modify the fuel return after fitting an electric lift pump, so if you haven't done that, it may be worth considering. Re-direct the spill line to return to the tank rather than the IP inlet which also helps to keep the IP cooler.

Cheers,
Chaz

What about a UV dye you can add to the diesel? It might help locate leaks.

Has anyone tried something like this?

http://www.rfsales.com.au/ultraviole...ction+Additive

Yendor,

Thanks for the UV suggestion. I left the lift pump going for a number of hours, and double checked all along the fuel lines. I find a very very small weap of diesel from around the filter. Think it was coming from the filter head attachment for fuel OUT... where I had placed a new fitting for ball valve... Thanks for your suggestion mate...

I've taken the time to pull the intake off the turbo to have a look. The spindle feels firm and fan looks a little beaten, but all looks ok, from my understanding. Attachment photographs show an alloy discolouration on inside of the pipe, where the fan spins, probably due to superheated oil? Would that be right? Or does it look like the fan MIGHT be touching the pipe at times, thus bearings could be on the way out? I don't think so, but checking opinions. I have discussed with a few people on phone and differing views.

Chaz, I checked the pressure on the manual plunger, which seems quite firm. Not high pressure, because I can still push the plunger, but seems a lot different, compared with when the lift pump is NOT on... so I am fine with that one... As for the oil, you guys may have something there. I changed the oil about 1000 or 2000 klm ago, and it was dead on the mark FULL. Now it is about 2,3 or 4 mm over this mark, despite draining off small quantities of oil from the catch can every now and then. So, maybe there is fuel being spilt into the oil... something of which I don't understand, but will definitely be organising the fuel return, as you had and have suggested, previously. I still need to visualise how to do this properly, which I haven't got my head around yet, but will check out some of your other posts again on the Forum and then see whether I understand.

Thanks for your help team... I look forward to any further guidance or suggestions, and will keep you up to date to what I find... and do... and the results.

Lindon

Lindon,

Here are bits required to do the fuel return mod.

http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/images/Parts.jpg

This image isn't very clear because the brass tee is behind the main fuel line, but it simply redirects the spill line from the engine and tee's it into the fuel return rather than the fuel inlet. Then you just block off the old spill line connection to the fuel inlet. This should stop any air getting back into the fuel inlet if you have a leaking spill line inside the head.

http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/images/Fitting.jpg

Hi Everyone,

Ok... where to start... firstly, please correct any information in here for others wishing to learn, if you feel this content is slightly incorrect as described, for NEW ZD30 owners may need to know some of this stuff... and I wouldn't want them to get a wrong tangent from me...

Since November (Simpson Desert), I've been having problems, as described previously in this thread. Suffice to say, they have been frustrating and stressful, especially when you have a large fiscal figure hanging over your head ($4000-$8000) to fix the injector pump, and yet I've sensed that there was nothing wrong with the pump. So the pressure has always been, from numerous people and so called specialists, to pull out the injector pump OUT, OVERHAUL, and supposedly, voila... problem fixed!

As I've said previously, Chaz has been an enormous help to me, so I really want to acknowledge his input into this and the solution I've found for my own vehicle/troubles, and hence the learnings I've received, so to speak...

November... warning light on dash frequently coming ON... no power... limp home to east coast QLD... Nissan dealership review for $150, suggesting injector pump failure... January second opinion... another "Specialist injector pump 4WD service centre on the Sunshine Coast" $350, suggesting the same thing... February-March reading Patrol forums, talking with people, researching the net, trialling a number of fault finding tricks and YIPEE, the vehicle seems to be running perfectly again... so far, it IS running perfectly... will keep you informed if this changes... otherwise, ALL GOOD!!

1. Placed a Walbro lift pump to vehicle - Outcome - vehicle was still running poorly frequently to infrequently, but I seemed to have some hope that it might be helping the vehicle overall - Pump has been great for priming the fuel filters and for positively pressurising the fuel lines to check for leaks - found a very small weep of diesel up around the filter head - so fixed - easy
2. Changed out at least 2 fuel filters since November (1000-3000klm) - first replaced out Wilpena Pound - it looked like it had dirt in the fuel that was removed - not heaps by my experience, but nonetheless, looked like red dirt - replaced second fuel filter yesterday just because I was getting more desperate to fix this vehicle - I initially thought the first filter change would be sufficient, at the time - again, another Nissan fuel filter placed in yesterday - seems to be more red dirt in the filter coming out - no rust - so I may need to replace this fuel filter AGAIN in time to come soon - will see... talking with Chaz, experience suggests that the ZD30 may require MULTIPLE fuel filter changes before problems resolve - so, always be mindful of MORE than one fuel filter change Lindon...
3. Oil level in sump, and hence on the dipstick, MAY be increasing... not sure yet... but will continue to review... talking with Chaz, if this IS the case, diesel may be leaking into the motor, thus affecting the quality of oil and lubrication, not to mention volume in sump... will need to check oil before starting from now on for a few months, to check whether the oil level is increasing, compared with decreasing... my understanding - fuel goes to injector pump - fuel then to injectors - remaining fuel (now HOT) that is NOT used during combustion returns to fuel INLET side of pump via return line - there is a "spill line" where diesel can make its way into the rocker cover, and importantly, can also suck air back down into the injector pump, thus air going past sensors to give a FALSE reading of injector pump failure... now, my explanation of spill line, etc might be a little naive still, but suffice to say, this is a vital piece of information to know about these ZD30s... thanks Chaz... this can be fixed with a number of inexpensive parts and small modification... and if the fuel continues to leak into the oil level, then at least I know how to fix it in the future, by pulling the rocker cover OFF, and finding the leak, and fixing...
4. Now, other than the fuel problems as above, and replacing fuel filters, I decided to place a new MAF sensor and new air filter into vehicle anyway... I will continue to mix/match the older air filter and MAF sensor over the next few months to see what happens... these two were still in good condition by the naked eye, but changed them to see whether there was any improvement...
5. I also had a secondary problem which had to be found... there had never been a lack of boost at any point, until just the other day, so I pull the inlet off the turbo and viewed... ran the vehicle at idle and the turbo fan spun fine... the fins appeared ok and the spindle was firm with NO play... because I have vacuum hoses going everywhere with Dawes boost controller and needle valve, I checked all the lines, hoses, intercooler & hoses, etc... during the mission I found the hoses good and the vacuum pump working, so pulled the Dawes controller apart to find the small stainless ball was stuck against the rear of the housing, due to a very small amount of oil that had migrated into the line, DESPITE the catch can... is there any way to further reduce the amount of oil that comes back into the air intake, other than the catch can I have already?? Don't know... but it pays to check these every now and then and clean them with something... so that fixed the lack of boost and obviously the rise in EGT...

I realise this is long-winded, but I have found the more I read on the forums, from those who you can trust, the more you can gleam to solve your own problems... thus, I wanted to waffle a bit and expand in some areas to give a flavour of findings, instead of just cold hard fact, which is hard to comprehend and decipher what is happening... feel free to ask questions if you are having problems with your own vehicle, if exactly the same as mine experienced...

Learning so far:

1. Change all filters, especially fuel filter - fuel filters may need to be changed multiple times over a short period
2. It's great to have a new MAF sensor to change IN/OUT to review the present one
3. It's great having a Walbro lift pump to supply positively pressured fuel to the injector pump and to the filter head
4. I've had a water separator on the vehicle since last injector pump build... that has been important
5. I don't have any other fuel filters inline, so that fuel FLOW is NOT restricted to the injector pump
6. Fuel can leak into the rocker cover... so need to check oil regularly, NOT for low oil, but for HIGH oil levels... if needing fixed, it will be a cheap fix by comparison to an injector pump
7. Oil can still make its way back into the vacuum hoses and foul the Dawes controller
8. It's important to have at least one boost gauge and a pyrometer in the ZD30 to monitor the engine, as a bear minimum. These have been invaluable in fault finding the problems too...
9. Don't believe everything Nissan dealership, mechanics, or specialists say... Talk with the real specialists on the forum here... the ones that really DO know these vehicles inside out... I am a paramedic by trade and still learning a lot about diesels, ZD30s, electrical, etc etc... but if I worked it out over a few months, surely there must also be some other people replacing injector pumps for no need too...???
10. There are miscellaneous others, which are important also, but figure I best stop talking and get off the forum, before you guys kick me off...

Hope my waffle may help some other poor fella out there having problems too... I am looking forward to some 4WDing out Landcruiser Park and Glasshouse now... once the rain stops !!

All the best... I'll post more over the next few months...

Lindon

Attachments are just simple visuals of engine bay... nothing exciting... but gives new people something to look at... I really like pictures and visualising layouts...!!

great thread and I hope you nut it all out. good luck out there

Hi Lindon,

Thank you for that great post, hopefully you have nailed your problem.

It would be great (if you have the time) to start another thread in the DIY section detailing the fitting of your lift pump and the modification to the fuel spill/return hose when/if you carry it out.

I know a lot of people will find this very helpful.

Also, if you are interested we are having a big meet up in October, would be good to see you there.

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...k-Bush-Retreat

Cheers Rodney

You have put in the hard yards mate
very informative will be good ready
for new owners of zd30,s who want to
do these jobs them selves

just one thing though sorry but if you
think that there might be red sand in your
tank would,nt it be better to take it out
and flush it out,in the long run it would
be cheaper than buying filters ,

Hi Team,

Some more information for you...

Roofy, regarding the "red dirt" and pulling out the tank... you're exactly right... the only reason I haven't done that is because I pulled the rear main tank out a number of years back, and it was a painful job... and don't feel like doing it this time around... at least at the moment... things might change though... thanks for reminding me though, because it might force me into gathering the motivation at some point...

Big Fletch, when you fixed the banjo seal inside your rocker cover, how did you go about that, and any tips...? Did you consider sealing them altogether, or should that NOT be done for some engineering reason...?

Yendor, thanks mate... I can't take any credit for the fitting of the lift pump... that all goes to Chaz... he set me on the straight and narrow on that one... his thread on the forum here was perfect for me... as for the October meet... I will check out the link... thanks for the invitation too... makes a fella feel welcome... I might put another thread on the DIY section regarding fix to fuel into the rocker cover, which may be helpful for anybody...??

More information - Update:

I've been driving the ZD30 for the past few days, with boost controller set at around 14 PSI on the gauge. I haven't noticed any fuel leaks on the lines. The car is driving well. Still no leaks around the intercooler or pipes. No warning lights coming on. No loss of power. It appears the oil level IS increasing. I will need to pull the rocker cover off and check for leaks, so I continue this thread for the meantime to gather any guidance from you guys as to the following, please:

1. Can we block these lines into the rocker cover, fullstop, so there is no future chance of fuel into the rocker cover/oil etc...? Or is there an engineering reason why this should NOT be done...?
2. Any special little tips on this job? I've had the cover off before when doing the timing chain, so have a bit of an idea what I am facing, but would love to seek anybody else's ideas/guidance...

OK... that's about it for me at present... I am heading to work for a couple of weeks and won't be doing this job until I return... Plan is to take plenty of photographs for anybody that is interested... so feel free to express an interest to see an amateur do this job, and in particular to show any interest whether you want to see any photographs so you can do it yourself... Of course I will subject the process to scrutiny of everyone on here so I don't lead anyone astray...

Before I forget, anybody make any comment upon the photographs of the turbo they visualised... does the streaking lines on the inside of the pipe adjacent to the fan, look like hot oil impregnation marks, or something dangerous...? Cheers...

Kind regards,

Lindon

Ps. Chaz, thanks again mate... you are a true champion...!!

well, that was a fascinating and well put together read, and I have a TB42 :-) Thanks Lindon and others.

Hi Lindon,

Sorry I can't answer any of your questions, hopefully someone else can.

I for one am interested and yes the more photos the better.

It seems like this is going to be another common fault with them.

Cheers Rodney

Posting this for Lindon and one else who might want to know.
We were talking about a leaking spill line and leaking diesel into your oil. This can also cause air to get into the fuel system overnight resulting in being hard to start in the mornings and having to re-bleed the diesel up. I havent seen any other posts on it so i thought i would get some pics up of the spill line inside the rocker cover.

With the rocker cover off there is a small metal tube that runs across the top of the injectors and bleeds the excess diesel back to the injector pump. The seals on this tube are known to leak and can cause the problems i mentioned above.

I have drawn the spill line in red on the photo below (this is after you have removed the rocker cover)
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...ISSAN-ZD30.jpg

This is the banjo seal that leaks on the spill line, there is 1 on each injector and 1 on the output of the spill line (5 in total inside the rocker cover). You can buys these seals individually from Nissan pretty cheap.
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...h/IMG_1511.jpg

While you have the rocker cover off, this is a good chance to replace your rocker cover gasket. Also check your glow plugs for wear (replace if needed) and the glow plug seals that leak on top of the rocker cover. The pic below is the rocker cover intact
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...g_Rail_Los.jpg

This is the glow plug seal that stops oil leaking out from around the glow plug. You can see them around the glow plugs in the pic above
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...132762W201.jpg

Hope this helps

Fletcha

Thanks for your input about the spill line Big_Fletch... that's fantastic for us all to know and see...

I look forward to adding more information/photographs when I fix mine in a few weeks...

Lindon

Thanks Superjuice and everyone else who has contributed to this post. I am in the same boat . symptoms were - oil level rising , provent catch can catching more oil residue than '' normal '' and on the odd occasion not starting with gusto , bit of hesitation . currently have cover off , return line off and while I am this far I will do the fuel return line mod as chaz describes . so new seals and stuff tomorrow . AAHH -the joys of motoring .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Superjuice2072

Hi Everyone,

Ok... where to start... firstly, please correct any information in here for others wishing to learn, if you feel this content is slightly incorrect as described, for NEW ZD30 owners may need to know some of this stuff... and I wouldn't want them to get a wrong tangent from me...

Since November (Simpson Desert), I've been having problems, as described previously in this thread. Suffice to say, they have been frustrating and stressful, especially when you have a large fiscal figure hanging over your head ($4000-$8000) to fix the injector pump, and yet I've sensed that there was nothing wrong with the pump. So the pressure has always been, from numerous people and so called specialists, to pull out the injector pump OUT, OVERHAUL, and supposedly, voila... problem fixed!

As I've said previously, Chaz has been an enormous help to me, so I really want to acknowledge his input into this and the solution I've found for my own vehicle/troubles, and hence the learnings I've received, so to speak...

November... warning light on dash frequently coming ON... no power... limp home to east coast QLD... Nissan dealership review for $150, suggesting injector pump failure... January second opinion... another "Specialist injector pump 4WD service centre on the Sunshine Coast" $350, suggesting the same thing... February-March reading Patrol forums, talking with people, researching the net, trialling a number of fault finding tricks and YIPEE, the vehicle seems to be running perfectly again... so far, it IS running perfectly... will keep you informed if this changes... otherwise, ALL GOOD!!

1. Placed a Walbro lift pump to vehicle - Outcome - vehicle was still running poorly frequently to infrequently, but I seemed to have some hope that it might be helping the vehicle overall - Pump has been great for priming the fuel filters and for positively pressurising the fuel lines to check for leaks - found a very small weep of diesel up around the filter head - so fixed - easy
2. Changed out at least 2 fuel filters since November (1000-3000klm) - first replaced out Wilpena Pound - it looked like it had dirt in the fuel that was removed - not heaps by my experience, but nonetheless, looked like red dirt - replaced second fuel filter yesterday just because I was getting more desperate to fix this vehicle - I initially thought the first filter change would be sufficient, at the time - again, another Nissan fuel filter placed in yesterday - seems to be more red dirt in the filter coming out - no rust - so I may need to replace this fuel filter AGAIN in time to come soon - will see... talking with Chaz, experience suggests that the ZD30 may require MULTIPLE fuel filter changes before problems resolve - so, always be mindful of MORE than one fuel filter change Lindon...
3. Oil level in sump, and hence on the dipstick, MAY be increasing... not sure yet... but will continue to review... talking with Chaz, if this IS the case, diesel may be leaking into the motor, thus affecting the quality of oil and lubrication, not to mention volume in sump... will need to check oil before starting from now on for a few months, to check whether the oil level is increasing, compared with decreasing... my understanding - fuel goes to injector pump - fuel then to injectors - remaining fuel (now HOT) that is NOT used during combustion returns to fuel INLET side of pump via return line - there is a "spill line" where diesel can make its way into the rocker cover, and importantly, can also suck air back down into the injector pump, thus air going past sensors to give a FALSE reading of injector pump failure... now, my explanation of spill line, etc might be a little naive still, but suffice to say, this is a vital piece of information to know about these ZD30s... thanks Chaz... this can be fixed with a number of inexpensive parts and small modification... and if the fuel continues to leak into the oil level, then at least I know how to fix it in the future, by pulling the rocker cover OFF, and finding the leak, and fixing...
4. Now, other than the fuel problems as above, and replacing fuel filters, I decided to place a new MAF sensor and new air filter into vehicle anyway... I will continue to mix/match the older air filter and MAF sensor over the next few months to see what happens... these two were still in good condition by the naked eye, but changed them to see whether there was any improvement...
5. I also had a secondary problem which had to be found... there had never been a lack of boost at any point, until just the other day, so I pull the inlet off the turbo and viewed... ran the vehicle at idle and the turbo fan spun fine... the fins appeared ok and the spindle was firm with NO play... because I have vacuum hoses going everywhere with Dawes boost controller and needle valve, I checked all the lines, hoses, intercooler & hoses, etc... during the mission I found the hoses good and the vacuum pump working, so pulled the Dawes controller apart to find the small stainless ball was stuck against the rear of the housing, due to a very small amount of oil that had migrated into the line, DESPITE the catch can... is there any way to further reduce the amount of oil that comes back into the air intake, other than the catch can I have already?? Don't know... but it pays to check these every now and then and clean them with something... so that fixed the lack of boost and obviously the rise in EGT...

I realise this is long-winded, but I have found the more I read on the forums, from those who you can trust, the more you can gleam to solve your own problems... thus, I wanted to waffle a bit and expand in some areas to give a flavour of findings, instead of just cold hard fact, which is hard to comprehend and decipher what is happening... feel free to ask questions if you are having problems with your own vehicle, if exactly the same as mine experienced...

Learning so far:

1. Change all filters, especially fuel filter - fuel filters may need to be changed multiple times over a short period
2. It's great to have a new MAF sensor to change IN/OUT to review the present one
3. It's great having a Walbro lift pump to supply positively pressured fuel to the injector pump and to the filter head
4. I've had a water separator on the vehicle since last injector pump build... that has been important
5. I don't have any other fuel filters inline, so that fuel FLOW is NOT restricted to the injector pump
6. Fuel can leak into the rocker cover... so need to check oil regularly, NOT for low oil, but for HIGH oil levels... if needing fixed, it will be a cheap fix by comparison to an injector pump
7. Oil can still make its way back into the vacuum hoses and foul the Dawes controller
8. It's important to have at least one boost gauge and a pyrometer in the ZD30 to monitor the engine, as a bear minimum. These have been invaluable in fault finding the problems too...
9. Don't believe everything Nissan dealership, mechanics, or specialists say... Talk with the real specialists on the forum here... the ones that really DO know these vehicles inside out... I am a paramedic by trade and still learning a lot about diesels, ZD30s, electrical, etc etc... but if I worked it out over a few months, surely there must also be some other people replacing injector pumps for no need too...???
10. There are miscellaneous others, which are important also, but figure I best stop talking and get off the forum, before you guys kick me off...

Hope my waffle may help some other poor fella out there having problems too... I am looking forward to some 4WDing out Landcruiser Park and Glasshouse now... once the rain stops !!

All the best... I'll post more over the next few months...

Lindon

Attachments are just simple visuals of engine bay... nothing exciting... but gives new people something to look at... I really like pictures and visualising layouts...!!

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from the picture with coolant surge bottle, it looks like you have leaking coolant into the head area. the amount is very tiny, so you wont notice it easily. however, the surge bottle should be 100% full (cold or hot). not test can find out such problem. it happened to me, eventually replaced the head gasket.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trol3.0

from the picture with coolant surge bottle, it looks like you have leaking coolant into the head area. the amount is very tiny, so you wont notice it easily. however, the surge bottle should be 100% full (cold or hot). not test can find out such problem. it happened to me, eventually replaced the head gasket.....

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Thanks Trol3.0... good pick up! So, if the cap's integrity is OK and the bottle doesn't have a leak, then the most probable cause is a leaking head gasket, versus a cracked head, yeah?

I will fill the bottle again, and check it over the next couple of weeks to see what results are created... Thanks again...

Lindon

Hi Everybody...

Here is an update for your knowledge and sharing with others...

Today, I pulled the rocker cover OFF and replaced the banjo washers on the spill line. I will summarise for those people reading who may not be aware of the process. With the cover OFF, I primed the fuel line with the lift pump. No leaks visible. Maybe heat is required? I will continue to check over the next couple of weeks.

1. Pull the intercooler OFF
2. Pull the throttle body OFF
3. Remove the rail on top of glow plugs
4. Remove the rocker cover

Tips: Careful when pulling the rocker cover OFF that the little black plastic insulating-type inserts don't fall into the oil. Makes it challenging to find. Also check that the little metal rings on the glow plug seal, also doesn't unclip and fall into the oil, like mine. Double check all of them.

Anyway, some photographs for you to check out, including one of the T-piece, as Chaz describes, to route the fuel from the spill line, back into the return-tank line, by comparison to running it to the inlet side of the injector pump.

If you prefer more information, please give me a yell. Bit late at night and finding it hard to type a big story like I have in the past.

The vehicle is running very well. No engine warning lights. I have the boost set at about 14-15 PSI, EGTs are good, etc etc. I will continue to check on the oil levels to see if the new banyo washers leak. Also, I will continue to check on the water level in the coolant as described previously. Will report back if I notice any changes.

Thanks for everybody's input. I enjoyed the learning but most importantly, your experience and help with saving BIG dollars. If I had followed the advice provided by the specialists, I would now be $4000+ out of pocket. Oh, another thing. I plan to disconnect the lift pump at some point to see how differently it runs, and see if there are any differences or warning lights back ON. Stay tuned.

Kind regards,

Lindon

Ps. having trouble uploading the photographs which are more interesting... pdf, jpg, bmp, gif won't work... keeps recognizing them as tiff formats... will try again later... sorry

Try this:

Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
Photo 5

Hi Gang,

Some further update for you all as a matter of interest...

The vehicle is running well. Very well. I haven't tried driving the car without the lift pump yet, so will get around to that one. But, just wanting to let you know that there still seems to be an increase in oil level on the dipstick, after changing the banjo washers on the spill line.

I dropped 250ml and the stick showed full - took it for a drive - dipped it cold the following day - over full - dropped another 250ml - took it for a drive - dipped it cold the following day - now it is just over full...

Do you think the injector pump might be pushing fuel out the front of it into the timing chain cover?

Kind regards,

Lindon

I had a similar problem with my gu111 with ecu coming on under acceleration and load. Thought it was fuel system injectors, filters,water etc. Took it to Sam Cali at round corner Dural and he I'd the problem with the electronics in the accelerator assembly in the cab. Replaced it and no more problems.
Hope this helps someone.
Cheers
Waza

how'd you go with your fuel issues?.. i'm currently having some drama's where my injector pump wont draw it's own fuel up from the tank.. and it's been suggested that it may be the front seal sucking air in on the pump?.. were you still getting fuel in your oil with your lift pump not running?

Hi MadDan,

Yeah, I think they are fixed... most of the time!? Occasionally, the warning light comes ON, yet nothing is at fault from what I can work out. I haven't had the pump OFF, so haven't ruled out that the pump could have or still is sucking air through a front seal... that, I know very little about other than suggestions from members and yourself... I'm not getting fuel in the oil though, as the oil level is constant now, compared with previously. Has anyone made suggestions to you about your vehicle and how to rectify?

Hi Team,

4 years on from the last post in 2013, and the vehicle is still running very well. No limp or boost problems. Filter changes are easy with the lift pump. No increase in oil levels. No warning lights. Fuel tanks not leaking. Fuel lines not leaking. Original injectors. Due for new glow plugs. Haven't been in rough corrugation for years, but have pushed vehicle in some rough country without any problems. All going well. Cheers. Lindon

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Superjuice2072

Hi Team,

4 years on from the last post in 2013, and the vehicle is still running very well. No limp or boost problems. Filter changes are easy with the lift pump. No increase in oil levels. No warning lights. Fuel tanks not leaking. Fuel lines not leaking. Original injectors. Due for new glow plugs. Haven't been in rough corrugation for years, but have pushed vehicle in some rough country without any problems. All going well. Cheers. Lindon

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Hi Lindon. Great to see you still have the might Patrol and its still going. I got a bit lost in reading through this thread. Lol. What was the final culprit?

Even a few new earth straps wouldnt hurt battery to motor motor to chassis battery to body.
I think Tojo earth different sections of the 4X4 like bullbar ,engine bay, cab general body and then cargo area.
Maybe someone up your way can drop in and nut it out over a few beers, make sure all vacuum lines are new and not
perished, easy and cheap to replace IMO. Youll get it soon enough