2003 3lt st down on power and engine light on

Hey all Im Ben, Advice welcome, I have an 03 3lt t/d and got in a day or 2 ago to find it down on power and the engine light is on, it feels like it is being strangled gently, my mate checked the turbo and it is fine (no excess movement or play and its spooling up and down fine). It sounds fine and runs well its just down on power/ doesn't want to rev freely. Its like its having probs breathing or getting enough fuel. Is there a safe mode on these engines that kicks in to avoid running lean if fuel pressure is low?

Sounds like your MAF either needs a clean or needs replacing, also what sort of condition is the air filter in?.
Also are you running a catch can Ben? if not you may find your Intercooler needs a good wash out.
My series 2 had the same prob with the engine light coming on but it has never come back on after fitting NADS.

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Originally Posted by 45/70

sounds like your maf either needs a clean or needs replacing, also what sort of condition is the air filter in?.
Also are you running a catch can ben? If not you may find your intercooler needs a good wash out.
My series 2 had the same prob with the engine light coming on but it has never come back on after fitting nads.

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x2 on this mate

Thank you very much, i suspected a sensor of some sort, also fuel and air filters were replaced yesterday. I am very novice when it comes to mechanics/ ability but that sounds like good news to me. I may sound silly but is the maf the sensor on the air intake and do i just take it out and wipe it clean? what is a catch can? With cleaning the intercooler could you give me some advice as to how to go about this safely? Again with an apparently silly question but what is nads? Thank you very much for advice i feel much better about things now. I had a terrible feeling it was going to blow up or grenade itself. Thanks again, the advice is much appreciated!!!

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Originally Posted by Ben81C

Thank you very much, i suspected a sensor of some sort, also fuel and air filters were replaced yesterday. I am very novice when it comes to mechanics/ ability but that sounds like good news to me. I may sound silly but is the maf the sensor on the air intake and do i just take it out and wipe it clean? what is a catch can? With cleaning the intercooler could you give me some advice as to how to go about this safely? Again with an apparently silly question but what is nads? Thank you very much for advice i feel much better about things now. I had a terrible feeling it was going to blow up or grenade itself. Thanks again, the advice is much appreciated!!!

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Thank's roofy and Ben.
Yes Ben, your maf is on your air intake and you will need a torx head spanner to undo it. You can clean it with a spray on contact cleaner but be careful as they are fragile.
A catch can is fitted inline on the hose that runs from your rocker cover to your intake {crank case breather hose} and stops oil residue from getting into your Intercooler and your intake as well as your maf.
To clean your intercooler, I just use some kerosene. First you will need to remove your intercooler and then block one side of it then tip in your kero and give it a shake.
When you are satisfied it's clean just re-fit {making sure you do clamps up tight].
NADS stands for nissan anti detonation system.
Or.
DAWES valve and needle valve,
catch can,
egr block,
and the fitting of both EGT and BOOST gauges.

There is a lot of info on the forums on the above mentioned, just go to the advanced search at top of page.
Good luck.

Paul.

It sounds exactly like mine, the light came on at the weekend. I have an 02 model, the handbook says that the engine light can indicate water in the fuel, but in my case, this is not so. I have cleaned the MAF, checked the diesel and replaced the fuel filter. I am taking it to be fixed tomorrow and will let you know what the problem is with mine so you can check if its the same problem. Does anybody know the price of a MAF sensor just in case it ends up being the problem?

could possably still be the turbo. i had lack of power. no acceleration, lots of black smoke, using more then normal juce. the problem was a line to the turbo had come off. the turbo over boosted so the computer cut how much fuel was getting to the engine to stop the turbo from over boosting
when i put my foot down.

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Originally Posted by nickpeacock36

It sounds exactly like mine, the light came on at the weekend. I have an 02 model, the handbook says that the engine light can indicate water in the fuel, but in my case, this is not so. I have cleaned the MAF, checked the diesel and replaced the fuel filter. I am taking it to be fixed tomorrow and will let you know what the problem is with mine so you can check if its the same problem. Does anybody know the price of a MAF sensor just in case it ends up being the problem?

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have a look at cleaning it there is a spray u can try i cant remember what its called
. there is also a thred somewhere showing how to test it. if all else fails try http://www.nizzbits.com.au/index.php?cPath=1_13

with mine its just slow to build up revs, but fine once it gets there (Guages Fitted) a bit of a delayed reaction when you put your foot on the pedal. NADS also fitte apart from catch can.

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Originally Posted by Ben81C

Hey all Im Ben, Advice welcome, I have an 03 3lt t/d and got in a day or 2 ago to find it down on power and the engine light is on, it feels like it is being strangled gently, my mate checked the turbo and it is fine (no excess movement or play and its spooling up and down fine). It sounds fine and runs well its just down on power/ doesn't want to rev freely. Its like its having probs breathing or getting enough fuel. Is there a safe mode on these engines that kicks in to avoid running lean if fuel pressure is low?

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Try priming the engine with the pump and start it .if the light goes off for a short time and the engine revs ok for that short time, its just the same as mine.

I got a quote today $180 fitted, Good luck with yours. Ben

Thank you very much for the info, I have decided to book it in and have a full diagnostic (just in case) on it but i think/ hope its the maf. If this is the problem i am getting the MAF replaced and a catch can fitted. I will Do the rest to complete NADS asap (thanks for that info as well) . The intercooler i will have a crack at myself thanks to your guidance. I was told the gauges were not necessary but to hell with that im fitting the lot. I will ask about price on DAWES valve and needle, but that and the gauges may have to wait until next pay. I have also heard a turbo timer is a good thing in preventing hot shutdowns. Again this will have to wait but not bloody long that's for sure.
Thank you very much Paul you champion!!!!!
Ben.

Thank you all for the guidance and advice, as i said i am mechanically not gifted. I am learning, but with the horror stories i have heard about these motors im going to leave this to the pro's. I think bullet proofing my pride and joy, and knowing it has been done right is money well spent. Thank you all.
Ben

Glad to be of help Ben.
Here is a link that will help you fit and set up your Dawes and needle valves. No chit mate it isnt that hard to do.
The only part I needed help with was welding the nut to the intercooler pipe to except the t piece. I got it done at local exhaust shop for $10.

http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manua...Controller.htm

Dont worry about turbo timer, just go off your EGT gauge temp.

Good luck and let me know how you get on.

Cheers.

Paul.

It was the MAF, i had it scanned and within seconds it was confirmed. I got a replacement for $130 and fitted it inside of 5mins. Light out and goldie is going hard again. I also did the air and fuel filters and fitted the catch can. I had a little help there, mechanic mate couldn't help himself. He is also going to make up an EGR blockerer to fit under the the manifold on the pipe that sends the exhaust back around so if any inspectors should want a closer look it will look as it should. Thank you all for the advise, spot on it was to. Good work
If you need to check yours you can use a multimeter, they should draw 1 volt or very close to it. Mine was showing .03- .04 on a multimeter. Or just pay for the scan to be sure. If you ask really nicely you can get a nice mechanic to do the scan cheap and just give you the fault code, the bloke that scanned mine did it for $50. I was quoted $250 from another shop for the same privilege Champion!!!
Ben

Glad all went well ben.
Just remember that if you are not fitting a manual boost controller you will need to go back half a turn on your VNT adjustment when you block your EGR.

i might wait until i can get the boost controller then. I will talk to my mate though he is a mechanic and used to work with Subaru so he should know about that stuff. I am not confident enough to play with the turbo or boost pressures and the like. I leave it to the pro's

Hi Ben , just thought you should know that the original nissan intercoolers have a poor reputation for leaking . they seem to go where the end tanks are clamped to the core . so it may pay to inspect yours for oil residue and dirt around the outside if your removing it to clean. chances are ... ???

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Originally Posted by Ben81C

It was the MAF, i had it scanned and within seconds it was confirmed. I got a replacement for $130 and fitted it inside of 5mins. Light out and goldie is going hard again. I also did the air and fuel filters and fitted the catch can. I had a little help there, mechanic mate couldn't help himself. He is also going to make up an EGR blockerer to fit under the the manifold on the pipe that sends the exhaust back around so if any inspectors should want a closer look it will look as it should. Thank you all for the advise, spot on it was to. Good work
If you need to check yours you can use a multimeter, they should draw 1 volt or very close to it. Mine was showing .03- .04 on a multimeter. Or just pay for the scan to be sure. If you ask really nicely you can get a nice mechanic to do the scan cheap and just give you the fault code, the bloke that scanned mine did it for $50. I was quoted $250 from another shop for the same privilege Champion!!!
Ben

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I have exactly the same issue (strangled is a great description). Where did you get the new MAF sensor for $130 as I'll do this asap.

is the MAF also known as an Air Flow Meter?

Yes it is.

Picked up a MAF sensor for $150 off ebay and have just fitted it. Man, what a difference! The Pootrol now changes gear much more smoothly, idles more smoothly and seems to have oodles of power that wasn't there before. I haven't taken it out onto the highway yet but will on my way home tomorrow arvo and I am still to test it on a couple of hills which I'll do on my way to work tomorrow morning. Just one question. I am wondering if the VNT boost control has been wound up a bit because of the power issues. Would I be right in thinking that if this has happened then I'll notice it out on the highway? Is there any other way of telling?

Check boost guage if fitted and watch EGTs again if fitted, if not suggest you fit asap'