Rear Accessory Panel

Chasing info on the rear accessory panels in the GU's if possible, the area where you can pick up the 12v multi plug gang plates.

Looking at what other's have set up for ideas on putting my own in. Also chasing pics of what is set up behind there or descriptions of wiring, as per my intro post / pic, trying to figure out what this cable set was used for? There is a red, blue, yellow, white and i forget the other colour possibly black but can confirm that when i get home from work.

Any info appreciated as I am a complete patrol nOOb.:bowdown:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...d/1fbd5399.jpg

When I installed mine (aftermarket Baintech version) I didn't use the wires directly behind the panel (not sure what they're for). Ran wires directly from the auxiliary battery. The Baintech panels have an inbuilt circuit breaker (30amp I think) but I also put a fuse in line.

Cheers Steveo, there the same sort of gang plates I am looking at. Just got me stumped unless at some point additional lecky gear was installed and then later removed but no idea what a 5 core cable would be used for in there

The spare white plug (top right of photo) is for the rear air conditioning unit, normally fitted in the TI models, there should also be another smaller plug.

The 5 core wiring harness is non-geniune. It's normally used when fitting tail light but can be used for anything. You could try following the harness and see where it goes.

I would just run a new harness.

Cheers for that gonna have a gander in the morning and see how far i track that lead

make sure to use 6 mm cable when taking feed from battery
we tend to put a lot of things in the back that require lots of power

Cheers for the info, the 5 core wire feed appears to be trailer wiring, couldn't find any direct power to it unless my test light is knackered.

The oem 12v socket that is already there, can that be tapped into for the gang plate? If possible, whats the easiest way to remove the side panels to check?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oncedisturbed

Cheers for the info, the 5 core wire feed appears to be trailer wiring, couldn't find any direct power to it unless my test light is knackered.

The oem 12v socket that is already there, can that be tapped into for the gang plate? If possible, whats the easiest way to remove the side panels to check?

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Don't bother. If you are not sure - run decent 6mm cable from aux battery to rear (via a fuse of course).

Not a worry, doesnt hurt to double check but will run the new wiring.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by my third

make sure to use 6 mm cable when taking feed from battery
we tend to put a lot of things in the back that require lots of power

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In regards to running the 6mm cable, what amp rating for cable and fuse should be utilised? Is 20amp cable and 20 - 30 amp fuse enough?

For the worklight that I will be putting (depending on lights I use) in, would the same cable suffice?

What they are saying to you, oncedisturbed, is that 6 square mm cable is desirable, ie so your looking at 8 B&S [8AWG] [3.25mm wire diameter, ie without the insulation.] for the main run from your aux battery to the refrigerator take off [and returning to the earth on your battery]. At the take off its best to give yourself a distribution board or bus bar of some sort so that you can run other accessories at a later date. Most of those will not draw much -typically fridge 3.5 A, light 1.5A, and maybe some battery chargers - but if you are thinking of anything heavier you will have something in reserve for those times. I'd use a 20 or 30A circuit breaker at the battery and then fuse the individual circuits that are taken from the distribution board, 5 or 10 amp are adequate for most applications.The wires going to those power points will be very short and not carrying much so can be small diameter, but it's good practice to run the 8 B& S as close as you can to the dedicated fridge powerpoint.

Bear in mind in these applications that you do no harm by going bigger in size but you can certainly do damage by going too small. Also that the run length is usually twice the distance to the power source [the power has got to get there and back]. You can look up tables to find these sizes if you're interested; http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/am...uge-d_730.html

I've found this fellows products to be good for many of these applications. http://www.sidewinder.com.au/

Hope this helps you.

Thanks for the breakdown, have been looking at 4 - 6mm twin core and the amp ratings vary from 17.5amp right upto 160amp. I have been looking at purchasing a roll as it usually works out cheaper and can use it for other bits as well and leaning towards 20 - 50amp wire, fuses etc as well

I am looking at the accessories board that was mentioned earlier with the built in volt meter etc that is pre-wired minus the power / earth wire.

going to be ordering some of the TYCAB cable in various sizes, more than likely in 30m rolls as it works out heaps cheaper plus I can use it for other stuff when I need to.

What would be a reasonable sized fuse block to run as in 30amp as I have been looking at some that will take upto 6 fuses?

Although my set-up is different to yours, oncedisturbed, the one I chose, was the $29.95 one towards the bottom of this page; http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page27.html
As you can see it gives 6 take-off options. I've used only 4 to date but if I want to install things later I can.

It is fairly easy to run this wire through the firewall on the lefthand side. The panels aren't that hard to get off at the back either. Just make sure you run through corrugated tubing anywhere it may rub on the internal panels when you put them back.

Just a note i have disconnected my factory rear socket and rewired it into my new rear cable as I have heard the original cant handle load very well.

No Need to take the rear panels off. Just use a piece of yellow tongue. Tape the wire (already encased in the split tubing) to the yellow tongue and push it through. Saves a lot of time and effort.

I would use a good quality 6mm2, 2 core twin sheath wire or even an 8 B&S cable.

Run this through a 40 amp fuse/circuit breaker mounted as close as possible to your second battery.

This set up will easily handle your fridge, camping lights and work light.

With your work light, I would look at getting an LED light.

Cheers Rodney

ending up ordering a couple of rolls of 6mm twin core and individual pos / neg 50amp cables, never go astray with it. also ordered 2 battery monitors, 100pc fuse kit and I forget what else.

Still need to get fuse holders / circuit breakers, distibution block preferably 1 with a common input, saves on running extra wires and connectors and the accessories gang plate, gotta do it on the quiet so the missus doesn't skin mecuz we're off to bali next month