Help with Diagnostics: ZD30 GU Nissan Patrol (2004 STL Auto)

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15th January 2012, 10:32 PM
Retired and loving it

Help with Diagnostics: ZD30 GU Nissan Patrol (2004 STL Auto)

Hello...
I need help like most other GU 3.0 ltr owners who have had a motor go Bang,
ours went for the second tim in Dec last year. Great Chrissie present...
The first one was in 2006 @ about 45000km. Fixed under Warranty. The second @ 144,000 km & at my cost. The NRMA premium service helped us out bringing the Nissan & the Caravan home from Dubbo to Penrith.
.Well I rebuilt the ZD30, amazing there was no adverse wear or damage apart from 4 piston crowns, After considerable measuring a clean-up bore hone and Standard sizes re-used throughout, Changing oil & Lube Oil Filter every 5000km kept it clean.
I did not service the Injection Pump or the injectors as only 110,000km use & I intend the upgrade the vehicle. (Repair cost under $2K so far for all the bits etc),
Re-assembled strictly in accordance with manual. Easy to rotate by hand and socket on front pulley with glow plugs out, All timing marks spot on, started easy

Having said that.... the mongrel won't rev more than 1500 rpm & exhaust won't go above 160deg c @ turbo inlet.. Starving of fuel, plenty of air... not enough grunt to run the air-con??
It is diagnostics time..
The only error code that comes up when checked is 0505 which is.."No Faults Detected" I read up on the Air mass flow sensor and carried out the voltage checks as specified, all indications it is OK??
I can't drive it more than 10k hr so I am stuck, will need it towed to.....

any ideas out there on what I may of missed or overlooked, disposable income does not exist these days. If it was a horse I would have it put down.
cheers Don
16th January 2012, 07:58 AM
YNOT

Have you checked the turbo? Having pieces of molten piston go through it won't have done it any good.
Have you taken steps to stop the problem reoccuring? Doing the known engine saver mods would have cost less than getting it towed home.

Tony
16th January 2012, 08:23 AM
Sir Roofy

as tony said doing the nads would have saved you a few dollars worth looking into
16th January 2012, 09:12 AM
Yendor

Possible blocked exhaust, rag been sucked in air intake.

Could it possible be the timing is out?.
16th January 2012, 09:25 AM
Sir Roofy

hoses to intercooler not on properly forgot to retighten hose clamps
16th January 2012, 09:51 AM
Retired and loving it

Re-assembled strictly in accordance with the Manual, The timing thought has crossed my mind but trying the easy ones first, a lot of work to expose drive train & check pump timing again, I will also try & run with the Catalytic converter off, will be noisey though, The thing that stumps me is when you start & put foot on throttle it is like it is not connected to engine, the revs slowly climb up and if you put the air-con on the revs drop a long way below normal idle. hate the rotten thing
16th January 2012, 09:53 AM
Retired and loving it

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yendor

Possible blocked exhaust, rag been sucked in air intake.

Could it possible be the timing is out?.

Re-assembled strictly in accordance with the Manual, The timing thought has crossed my mind but trying the easy ones first, a lot of work to expose drive train & check pump timing again, I will also try & run with the Catalytic converter off, will be noisey though, The thing that stumps me is when you start & put foot on throttle it is like it is not connected to engine, the revs slowly climb up and if you put the air-con on the revs drop a long way below normal idle. hate the rotten thing
16th January 2012, 07:14 PM
Yendor

Quote:

Originally Posted by Retired and loving it

Re-assembled strictly in accordance with the Manual, The timing thought has crossed my mind but trying the easy ones first, a lot of work to expose drive train & check pump timing again, I will also try & run with the Catalytic converter off, will be noisey though, The thing that stumps me is when you start & put foot on throttle it is like it is not connected to engine, the revs slowly climb up and if you put the air-con on the revs drop a long way below normal idle. hate the rotten thing

Hi Don,

I don't think it is an electrical problem going by what you have said, but it won't hurt to recheck all the wiring connectors that you had apart.

Disconnect them again and inspect the terminals for damage or backed out terminals.

Also make sure you have reconnected the earth wires to the manifold on the RHS of the engine.

You could try getting Nissan to connect their computer and check operation of the sensors, but I would of expected if it was an electrical problem causing your drama that a fault code would have been recorded.

Good luck with it.

Cheers Rodney
16th January 2012, 07:32 PM
Retired and loving it

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yendor

Hi Don,

I don't think it is an electrical problem going by what you have said, but it won't hurt to recheck all the wiring connectors that you had apart.

Disconnect them again and inspect the terminals for damage or backed out terminals.
Also make sure you have reconnected the earth wires to the manifold on the RHS of the engine.

You could try getting Nissan to connect their computer and check operation of the sensors, but I would of expected if it was an electrical problem causing your drama that a fault code would have been recorded.

Good luck with it.

Cheers Rodney

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks Rodney, All the mechanicals are correct, checked all the timing of cams, balance shafts and the injector pump. all were lined up as they should be (hate re-doing things over) Incidentally @ TDC No 1 cyl all timing gear ID marks line up & same with the timing chain/// the Injector pump will be also correct as the 4 bolt hole flange @ drive sprocket can only go on the right way (not symmetrical bolt pattern) I will be double checking all terminals & plugs as it goes back together again, cheers Don
16th January 2012, 07:42 PM
Retired and loving it

Quote:

Originally Posted by YNOT

Have you checked the turbo? Having pieces of molten piston go through it won't have done it any good.
Have you taken steps to stop the problem reoccuring? Doing the known engine saver mods would have cost less than getting it towed home.

Tony

Turbo runs sweet but inlet temp only 160deg, no fuel hence no hot exhaust gas, so output low. No performance difference with or without Turbo plumbed up on air side to motor
16th January 2012, 07:52 PM
NissanGQ4.2

Welcome 2 the forum Don,

Great 2 see a someone so close 2 me join the forum,

When you get a chance stop past the intro thread and post up an intro about yourself and your rig.

Cheers

Todd
6th February 2012, 08:49 AM
Retired and loving it

ZD30 Diagnostics won't Go

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yendor

Hi Don,

I don't think it is an electrical problem going by what you have said, but it won't hurt to recheck all the wiring connectors that you had apart.

Disconnect them again and inspect the terminals for damage or backed out terminals.

Also make sure you have reconnected the earth wires to the manifold on the RHS of the engine.

You could try getting Nissan to connect their computer and check operation of the sensors, but I would of expected if it was an electrical problem causing your drama that a fault code would have been recorded.

Good luck with it.

Cheers Rodney

Block overhauled, new pistons, rings , bearings, new MF sensor, reconditioned Fuel Injection Pump, Stumbling block was lack of Revs above 2000RPM, Replaced Injectors now runs like a dream. Re-set Turbo adjustment vane set screw to ensure maximum boost at any time in all conditions to 15PSI (used Large Independant Test Pressure Gauge)
A lot of thanks go to Garry at Sydney Diesel Centre (02 96817700) who helped track down the problem and supplying New Nissan Injectors at a very Cheap Price.