rd28 to td42 conversion gq

I am in the process of fitting a td42 to what was previously an rd28 turbo.
Will post up any info on wiring and other things that i had to change as i go along.
Will be fitting a turbo as well at a later date so modifying the sump for an oil return whilst the engine is out.
I have to thank western clutch service http://sydney.citysearch.com.au/E/V/SYDNE/0012/13/41/
For advice and exceptional service .
I was supplied an exedy heavy duty clutch and they machined the flywheel and welded the clutch fork and resurfaced the throwout bearing holder for $500.

Ok so far i have changed the clutch line and slave cylinder master was the same size so i left it in.
Brake booster vacuum lines and chambers removed and td42 setup installed.
The fuel filter bracket etc has been swapped from the td42 though i think i will keep the rd28 filter where it is rather then fit the td42 fuel lines and filter.
The idle cable for the rd28 is connected to the fuel pump wich will need changing it is also in a spot that has a bracket attached for the fuel lines off the td42 so i pulled out the original idle cable and swapped in the blanking plate off the td42 where it goes through the firewall.
The cable from the td42 connects to the throttle pedal inside the car you will need the bracket that holds the outer cable as well and two screws all fitted up now working fine.

I'm looking forward to seeing this, if you could post a heap of photos as you go that would be even better.

Tony

Changed the power steering pump over two 14mm bolts in top of the steering box for the lines and swapped the lot over .
The aircon pump is different wich is a damn shame looks like i'll have to swap a few lines and the pump and have it regassed.
Still trying to figure out the best way to do the engine mount on the drivers side.

There are 6 threaded holes on the drivers side of the engine block, if you make a suitable thickness steel plate that covers all 6 holes you can bolt your engine mount to the plate where it needs to be - easier than relocating the mount on the chassis. Additionally to that, if you put in a bit more planning to that steel plate and extend it down a bit further to beside the sump, you can mount a second A/C compressor to it to use as an air compressor. Check this thread for more info and photo's of the compressor mount idea; http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...air-compressor

Tony

Thanks will look into it.
Changed the yokes over on the diffs today the first one on the donor car was a pain got a mates 3/4 drive rattle gun on the job it took a good 2 minutes before it loosened up. the others come undone easy.
Hoping to have the box in tomorrow if all goes well.
I was surprised at the size difference in the uni's.
Also it looks like the rear yoke off the rd28 diffs might be the same as the front one on the td42 .

Made the engine mount today cut the old mount off and tig welded it to a flat piece of steel using the extra bolt holes and two of the old holes and cleaned up a bit what a mess.

Photo's please.

Tony

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Originally Posted by YNOT

Photo's please.

Tony

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Will take a few tomorrow funny thing was the steel i used was a trailer hitch handbrake holder two holes lined up just had to fill two and drill two more in the right place.

http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/s...bracket039.jpg

Got the gearbox in place what a mission on my own using a trolley jack.
The rest should be pretty easy will have another go at it when it cools down a bit.

The motors in come inside for some nice aircon and a cool drink.
Just have to bolt up all the crap and do the wiring now might even have another go at it after i cool down.

Hey mate you got any pics of what your doing be good to see

What's to see.
Pretty straight forward swap other then the engine mount and wiring wich i will post up info and pics on when i have finished it.

Throttle cables are different as well had to change it over.

Ok the wiring is pretty easy i used the rd28 harness lay them side by side you will see that the gearbox connectors are the same just that one has to be moved to match so start there.

Then from that point on strip back all the coverings and tape
The starter wire is straight forward copy the same position as the td harness.i had to change the plug on the end to suit.
Then next up the harness is the oil pressure sender i used the rd28 one to match the dash so put the plug in the same spot as the td42 harness and tape it off.
I then removed the tps plug and wiring as it isn't needed any more and the white glow plug wire.Well i actually used the white wire and swapped it over at the other end of the harness and removed the red one. i then removed the td42 connector on top of the manifold run the rd28 glow wire direct to the glow plug rail with no connector in between and shortened it to suit put a new connector on the end..


I laid it out on the engine at this point to make sure everything would reach to the locations i wanted.
I changed the injector pump plug to suit the td pump and run it to the same location as the td harness.

Now i run the tacho plug to the same spot as the td42 harness and the red glow wire also cut and extended the temp sender wires.
So now the glow wire tacho wires and temp sender wires are all heading in the same direction.
With the temp sender wiring i run mine down the path of the tacho input then up behind the alternator bracket so measure accordingly with your extensions.
Or do as i did extend the wires over a foot and a half tape up and recover the harness as you go then fit it all up to the engine and then cut and join the temp sender wires last.

So i fired it up for a few seconds i get the glow light flashing because of the afterglow no longer being there will try removing relays or swapping the control box over but so far so good oil pressure light and gauge is working tacho was working .

I'm interested to see what you find with the glow light flashing.

Was there much to do adapting the clutch slave cylinder to the new gearbox?

Tony

I used the lines and slave from the td42 even the bracket in the left front near the firewall that holds the td fuel filter etc.
The master for the clutch was the same size so just screwed the line straight in.

Glow light initial works fine goes out then it starts flashing until the temp rises once it has been started warmed up and restarted their is no flashing.
I am trying to think of a way around it as the td42 module doesn't plug in the same.
It would be good to have a schematic on the glow control module and just bypass the flasher circuit.
Anyone got any ideas.

Just had a bright idea i can just wire the dash light to the initial feed to the glow plugs wich will bypass the flashing and still come on when the initial glow is working..

I bought a new rubber boot clutch fork Part No: 30542-01J00 $21
And gearstick boot 32862v5001 $20 from nissan

Been driving around a bit it really needs a turbo.
I wound the fuel up a little and give it a good dose of two stroke oil and it seems to be getting better.
Either that or i am just getting used to the lack of power over the rd28.
The speedo is out by a bit according to the gps 60=70
90=110.
Will have to take the cluster out i remember their being different options on the back of them.

Swapped the speedo sensor in the transfer over from the rd28 box now it's working fine.
The options on the back of the cluster may be for the tacho will look at it another day.

The diff centres are a different ratio. Mine is 125km/hr for real 100. Also doing 3000rpm at 100km/hr. Anyone sort the glow plug issue. Its annoyying to the extreme. One relay clicks on off for both glow and then again for flashing. Light comes on and then flashes even with none of the relays plugged in.

My speedo is spot on according to the gps i have 4.6 ratio diffs so i used the original rd28 speedo sensor and gear.
It does 2900 rpm at 110k's an hour but it does have factory 16 inch alloy mag wheels.
My glow light stops flashing when it warms up.
what i am going to do one day is wire up the glow light to the glow relay feed so then it will only come on when the initial glow is on.

Cool awsome reading as I am also about to do the same to my 2.8 97 gq & also just found in the back of my shed that plate for trailer so it can be for my engine mount too thanks
I was thinking of trying say 35" or 37" tyres to get the revs downs as I currently run 33's & speedo reads 93k when I'm doing 100 by gps as for actual speedo not worried as I always use GPS as speedo then compare & use tacho.
cheers again TonyD

Good info, I'm looking at starting a similar project soon, putting a 4.2td into a 98 Gu wagon. Keep the info coming. I like your engine mount idea and will probably steal it ;)

Update i drowned the 2.8 glow controller so removed it .
But it controlled the tacho as well so i fitted a tacho from the td42 early cluster and swapped the needle and faceplate over.
And with the wiring at the controller joined the yellow black trace to the yellow white trace then run the yellow blue trace to earth the black wires.
If you just want to run a manuallly operated momentary switch for glow control use the green white trace and switch it to ground if you want the light to work run the yellow with a green trace to it with a diode to stop the light coming on with accessories.
Or if you cut the wiring out of the early td42 and use the glow controller wire it straight up all the colours you need are in there but you need to earth the blue wire red trace at the glow relay as they use a positive switch so cut it and run it to ground.
I am also going to mount this up higher behind the cluster somewhere to keep it from getting wet again i hope.

Hows this all going mate? Are you happy with the end result? I'm thinking of buying a TD42 and slowly rebuild it to eventually replace my ZD30. In your own time it would be real handy to see a parts list and like some sort of assembly order. So if anyone else feels up for the challenge of the conversion they know what they are getting themselves into. I want to do my research properly before I do this. Then I read about the 6.5L V8's. Dang!

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Originally Posted by 97_gq_lwb

http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/s...bracket039.jpg

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Hey mate do you have any measurements for the engine mount as I have just started the conversion myself

I measured the differences on the chassis from a few different points i think it was 40 mm but can't be sure so better if you check.

Thanks for the write up mate as this is my plans in the hopefully no to distant future