sd33t head/gasket unsolved problems

hi,
let me tell ya story about my engine:)...

330kkm was running well, no problems up to day that i've noticed that cooler tank is empty.. refiled; no dripping, cabin heater dry, engine dry.
than one day after some heavy mountain riding noticed that hoses are to hard (i mean overloaded with pressure- fumes)...

so what to do? engine head taken of and...? nothing on gasket, looked very good....
head was checked on hot pressure test, no leaks noticed, totally rebuild, valves sealers, machined etc.
assembled on Reinz gasket.
patrol ws running well for 500km only on the roads and sudenly started to boil water...

seceond atempt done, head off, once again checked on leak test in different diesel company, nothing came out, so ( which i do not belive:) i started to think that i'm crazy and did something wrong with assembling....

second Reinz gasket and after 2000 km in Romania mountains again boiling bubling and so on.

my question is:

where is the problem, did you ever meet problem with cracked sd 33t engine block? or is it gasket?

what brands of gasket you use for turbo sd?

it is hard to belive that only oryginal nissan gasket works...
i love my truck but i'm close to nut house.....:trink13:

IF the heads been checked and the gasket replaced and she still boiling,get that radiator out and properly cleaned
Considering the cost to rebuilt the head ,and the cost of genuine head gasket let alone labour , ya dont wanna be pulling it all apart just for practice

Radiator done, new rad cap,new top bottom hoses,check the fan clutch hub,but im leaning towards a blocked rad

well, it my be true, radiator... but how tu be sure that the flow is correct?

and second thing, it is not boling just bubling without thermostat. with thermostat ( checked different ones temp gets crazy)
an way i'll try. thanks
ps. i hope that i did'nt overheated engine when last time was drivin home olmost without water for 20 km.... was around 5 celsius outside

new hoses? i think it is not possible to buy it even in nissan dealer. its not australia:) mq was rear in Poland 10 years ago now it is white crow:) only rd28t around ;///

So you dont have a thermostat in there ???

Go put one in , itll run massively hotter without one

Quote:

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Originally Posted by qdłaty

well, it my be true, radiator... but how tu be sure that the flow is correct?

and second thing, it is not boling just bubling without thermostat. with thermostat ( checked different ones temp gets crazy)
an way i'll try. thanks
ps. i hope that i did'nt overheated engine when last time was drivin home olmost without water for 20 km.... was around 5 celsius outside

new hoses? i think it is not possible to buy it even in nissan dealer. its not australia:) mq was rear in Poland 10 years ago now it is white crow:) only rd28t around ;///

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If the temperature goes up considerably with a thermostat installed its telling you, you have a restriction in the flow somewhere.

I would be going with MQ Mad on this one & if you can not find a replacement radiator, I would be getting your radiator properly cleaned & serviced.

Try Ebay for your replacement hoses, you can have them shipped to you.

Maybe I am stating the obnious, or maybe I'm looking to far into things. You and the mechanic Know there are two different head gaskets for SD33 right? The non turbo gasket does not fit a turbo motor correctly, you must buy a SD33T head gasket!



Tim

there's no "mechanic" :) there's only me, i know about difference in gaskets. thx for reminder.
did you ever heard about water pump wearing in those engines? i do not want to disasembly to keep it not leaking.

Water pumps will wear out especially if only water(not anti-corroding coolant) has been used.


Tim

so it may be also a reason for pure water flow. car oryginaly came from Italy- so it is obvious that things like running without oil, water, lot of dents around the body, all of glow plugs not working etc. can happen:) they completly don't give a s**t to things like that. only one thing is good- no rust and horn will work. in rest of europe its oposite. any way i like italians so no offense;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by qdłaty

so it may be also a reason for pure water flow. car oryginaly came from Italy- so it is obvious that things like running without oil, water, lot of dents around the body, all of glow plugs not working etc. can happen:) they completly don't give a s**t to things like that.

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Its not really a country originated or common thing to generally not care for your car
It happens alot here in australia as well,mate has never topped his radiator with coolant ,ever
Owned the cars 18 years ,and didnt know any different,only serviced it when oil level right down,hasnt had an oil change in be nearly 2 years,check n tyres , "What for"
This is on a car he bought only a few months old,so lacking the lovin for the cars , its everywhere,then throw in the age factor and what some older cars are worth,you can see why they dont get the lovin
Alotta young blokes are buying these old patrols over here for not much and absolutely abusing them to near death and they will take that abuse, they are a tuff ol rig

ok. comming back to boiling problem.
water pomp - was/is super extra lika new
radiator- was/is clean, water flowing like crazyany ideas?
as a temporary solution will put sd33 and here another questions is comming- exhaust will fit from current sd33t or not?

on spring when snow will go away:) i'm thinking about last possibility which is crack on a block liner. i'll do crack test and see.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by qdłaty

as a temporary solution will put sd33 and here another questions is comming- exhaust will fit from current sd33t or not?

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YES , the exhaust flange will fit between SD33 n/a and SD33T , BUT
The n/a motor the exhaust flange is further forward then on a turbo motor
So youll have to cut exhaust and extend it to fit your exhaust goin from a SD33T to a SD33 n/a
I know this goin from an n/a motor to a turbo motor,as ive just done the conversion and exhaust mods, well shortening had to be done
So youll need to lengthen goin the other way

thanks, thats the info i was looking for. said thing is that i've scraped last year sd33 pipe...

changing subject litlebit. does any one of you heard of conversion to land rover 4.0 v8 to MQ?
this v8s are avalible on our market so it may be soluton for diesel problems.
diesel fuel has higher price than gas, 5 months in year we have winter and so on. gasoline eng. is better

what do you think, front diff in patrol will survive daily driving when i will put LR v8 with LR transmision? diff is designed for higher hyway speeds?

Havent heard of a land drover V8 in one, most here use the GM 5 L , LS1 gen3 5.7 L,carb chevy V8s,ford inline 6s
Diesel is sometimes higher here at the pump, but when diesel economy is near twice that of a petrol engined version , most dont mind paying a touch more for diesel
Those MQ/MK patrol diffs are strong , and depending on their life of abuse will handle a hard time, even from tuff V8s
As for the tranny issue, depends how you do the fitment, do a google ,or troll around dedicated patrol forums, theres plenty on conversions and the pitfalls
The MQ/MK have from factory various diff ratios and depending on the country its destined to go to , various ratios again

another question guys. last week one dude told me that after '85 there is no difference between sd33 and sd33t engine block (crankshaft,pistons, rods, and else) is that true, that if there is a piston bottom oil sprayer, blocks are same?( pre 85 block didn't have oil sprayer).
if yes will put all engine accessories from turbo to nonturbo block and thats it:)....