Info on buying a Patrol

Hi all.
We are looking at purchasing a Patrol in about 3 months. Our budget is limited to $30k max. Planning to go diesel/auto. We are planning an indefinite trip throughout Australia, towing our camper trailer for a few months then maybe a small poptop caravan.
Can anyone advise us on what model etc to look for and what to stay away from.
We were considering going to a 3.0 litre. A couple of people have said to stay away from the 3.0 litre, but have not been able to say why, just they had heard it. (not much help there).
What is your average fuel economy. (as we will be clocking up some Ks, we dont what to get a vehicle and find that the only place it wont go is past a service station, lol )
Are there any common issues among any particular models.
Thanks:cheers:
Daryl

From what i understand mate, the early GU 3.0ltr TD Series 1 and 2 are the ones to stay away from. Just look up some threads about the ZD30.
I got a GU series 2 but have done the necessary mods to help out.
with a 30k budget mate, you would get an incredible vehicle mate.

There is alot of info out there mate about the ZD30 grenading problems, but im a firm believer that if you treat your car good, it will return the favor :)

good luck mate

G'day Daryl,

In my opinion for a budget of that size and your plans to travel indefinitely towing around Australia I would personally get TD42 GU manual.

Diesel 4.2 litre turbo and manual is perfect for what you intend to do with no hassles.

Hey Daryl, I'm also actively researching answers to some of the questions you have.Hope you find all the info you need.

Thanks for the info and leads. Have been going through the site ( being an old pr%ck Im still learning about computers).
Have found some of the info I am after. Are looking at an auto this time. Our current 4b is a manual.
Our previous 4b was an auto. Syl prefers to drive a auto and as she does about 60 to 70% of the driving that gives her first choice (damm)
Thanks again
Daryl

G'day Daryl. I know people say stay away from series 1 an 2 GU 3.0, but mine kicks ass. Series 2 GU 3.0 DI turbo deisel 5 speed manual. I drive a lot of suburbia and can 1000kms when the fuel light comes on. It drives great, looks great and we get a long great. hehe.
I also believe that if you treat your troll with a bit of love, it will treat the same in return. \
Gotta love the Patrol.
Good hunting. :)

Your budget is perfect for a very good car mate.

here is IMO the best buy in NSW on Carsales right now

2007 GU VI 3.0 ST with under 100k on the clock

Buy the latest model with the least k's mate and your on a winner, good luck mate

Gooday Daryl, The ones to stay away from are the ones without a good service history. Having said that, the later model you can get the better. The 04, 05, 06, Direct injection models [D.I.] appear to have overcome the reputation that some of the earlier ones obtained when they "grenaded". Typically they over-fueled, over-boosted, and overheated in a dramatic way, very often it seems as a result of the MAF sensor playing up. For this reason many owners will fit Boost and Exhaust Gas Temperature gauges to monitor abnormal behaviour, and there are other modifications you can read about at your leisure.
In 2007 the Common Rail engine was introduced, and they appear to have had none of the extreme failures. However, for reasons noone can successfully explain the auto models have had some instances of abnormally high fuel consumption. My own averages between 12.5 at best to about 15 l.p.h.k running solo on road [the troubled ones are maybe 16 to 20?]. Off road is of course another matter. I don't tow so can't assist you there.
As with every manufacturers common rail engines, fuel contamination can be disastrous, but I don't think Patrols are any more susceptible than any other.
The auto gearbox is well regarded for reliability, but obviosly unsophisticated compared to modern autos.
A Scan gauge is a good investment for the CRDs[doesn't work on DIs], and an Exhaust Gas Temp gauge good for both DI and CRD.
You probably know prices better than I do by now but I'm guessing you'd get an excellent late DI or early CRD for that money.
Hope this gives you the basis for further research.
Graeme.

I have a GUIII ZD Auto at present and I love the auto in the bush. Just traded it on a Spankin ZD CRD Manual...

After towing with the auto you will find that it is not up to speed at all. Allot will disagree but I found that with my camper trailer on the fuel consumption went up and the speed came down. Granted I had 33's (who doesn't). Any sort of wind and it started to struggle. Dropping out the "lock-up converter"all the time. I know you guys will say there is mods for that converter but there is a good reason thta the Auto is rated to tow 2500kg and the Manual 3200kg (there are Kia's that can tow more). Don't get me wrong it was a really big deal for me to get rid of the auto, even thought of getting rid of the camper. I love the auto in the bush. Made the manuals look stupid every time (except when pointing down hill). But they are not up for towing in my opinion. The fuel stats above tend to agree. Is a real shame they are not the same rating. The other thing is you loose allot more power in the auto than with manual. Another thing is my mate blew his clutch the other weekend halfway down mundering powerline track. Had 50 km's of track and nearly 100km's home. He drove the lot, all 150. Just ment he had to hit each hill first go and I had to push him off every light on the way home with my bull bar. An auto looses fluid or cooks what then??? Seriously look at this before buying.

Thanks Graeme and Skull for the great info, Just been chatting with my wife Syl about what you guys say, particularly about the auto. Syl says she finds it easier with the auto off road.
With the manual are all models equipped with the dual mass flywheel?. I heard these are not cheap to replace ????. Or is an alternative available.
Thanks to all :cheers:
Daryl

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leighw85

From what i understand mate, the early GU 3.0ltr TD Series 1 and 2 are the ones to stay away from. Just look up some threads about the ZD30.
I got a GU series 2 but have done the necessary mods to help out.
with a 30k budget mate, you would get an incredible vehicle mate.

There is alot of info out there mate about the ZD30 grenading problems, but im a firm believer that if you treat your car good, it will return the favor :)

good luck mate

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#172 edition of 4WD Action mag has a complete write up on the ZD30 and what the look out for mechanically. It covers why they have problems and how to avoid/combat them.

Cheers,

Rob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rkinsey

#172 edition of 4WD Action mag has a complete write up on the ZD30 and what the look out for mechanically. It covers why they have problems and how to avoid/combat them.

Cheers,

Rob

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Thanks Rob, I was just looking at the 4WD Action mag website. would you believe that edition 172 is out of stock.
Cheers
Daryl

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ova50

Thanks Rob, I was just looking at the 4WD Action mag website. would you believe that edition 172 is out of stock.
Cheers
Daryl

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The article is not that great. it lacks alot of the details. :)
there is far better information on the forum mate

The auto's are superior in the bush. Much safer on rutted hill climbs where you are close to roll over. Gives better control with one foot on the brake and the other on the go button. No rolling back or stalling which may be all it takes to roll her over. Still would not have another auto to tow with though. Just use the old handbrake on those hills, not as easy or effective but good enough for me. Don't stress about the dual mass fly wheel. Yes they are expensive, but they all are. I don't know of anyone that has had to do one. Gets talked about but never seen I think. On of those thing that gets mention on one forum and regurgitated around every other by some dick with no idea (probably a toyata driver... LOL).

Daryl, I agree with Skull on that one, ie the dual mass flywheels. But yes, there are after market solid ones available .
Also agree re ease of use in the bush. I've been caught in a manual in a river crossing where a large rock or hole has forced me to change gear - obviously undesirable - but not the auto. Climbing desert sand dunes is another forte of the auto - the manual has lost its momentum with a gear change but the auto forges on.
Graeme.

Thanks Skull & GRA.GU.for the info. Still finding my way around the site, Have found a lot of info using the forum search. :wink:
Cheers
Daryl

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skull

The auto's are superior in the bush. Much safer on rutted hill climbs where you are close to roll over. Gives better control with one foot on the brake and the other on the go button. No rolling back or stalling which may be all it takes to roll her over. Still would not have another auto to tow with though. Just use the old handbrake on those hills, not as easy or effective but good enough for me. Don't stress about the dual mass fly wheel. Yes they are expensive, but they all are. I don't know of anyone that has had to do one. Gets talked about but never seen I think. On of those thing that gets mention on one forum and regurgitated around every other by some dick with no idea (probably a toyata driver... LOL).

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My mate just replaced his clutch (GU TD2.8). he went for a Exedy Tuff clutch ( the best he could find). He also replaced the fly wheel but replaced it with a solid one. He couldnt find any reason that a solid flywheel would be a bad idea.

There such be a great info, which i had never familiar with.
Thanks for it.

4.2TD dont buy nothing but