95 Ti Radio upgrade

Hey all, Just got a new radio/cd/mp3 to fit into the truck. Went back to the place i got it from to get a wiring loom that would convert the Nissan one to std. We had a look but the std nissan one dont fit mine - its a double one with a radio/cassette on the bottom and cd player in the top. So Im going to have to chop mine off and solder straight to an adaptor that fits the new unit. Does anyone have an acurate wiring diagram for the old double nissan units. Ive downloaded the workshop manual but not sure if its accurate for this type or not. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Dan

sorry mate cant help ya......... have you tried googling the model number of the old unit?

Actually didn't even think of that.. thanks

I don't have a wiring diagram to suit your model but I am sure we can work it out if you are unable to find one.

Just let me know if you need a hand.

http://www.jdmlegion.com/Assets/Nissan_Radio_Wiring.pdf

Have a look here I remember using info from this site when I put in my unit.

Thanks Stumpjumper, I think thats just what I needed. It seems mine has the 94 wiring although its a 95. Must have been a changeover model or something like that. Dan

Hit a bit of a brick wall with this one. New system powers up but nothing come out. I've heard thats th old premium sound systems with their big amps under the seat can be different. Has anyone had any experience with these?

Did your wiring and plug correspond with the top picture in Stumpjumper link?

If so, what did you connect the wire to in PIN M?

The new system had a blue wire marked factory amp turn on... I took the wire from the M pin and connected it to that. The wiring was the same as the top picture except the colours were different, so I used a multimeter to confirm "hot all the time"... "hot in acc" ect . the speakers were easy because they came out of the dash in 4x two core cables and went to the same pins as the drawings.

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Originally Posted by NewDan

The new system had a blue wire marked factory amp turn on... I took the wire from the M pin and connected it to that. The wiring was the same as the top picture except the colours were different, so I used a multimeter to confirm "hot all the time"... "hot in acc" ect . the speakers were easy because they came out of the dash in 4x two core cables and went to the same pins as the drawings.

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Try disconnecting pin "C" the black (-) on your new unit & reconnecting the (-) black wire from your new unit directly to the body, then replace your dash light fuse cos its more then likely blown by now & see if your all sorted.

Hey guys, pin c is already connected to the body, it is the only wire on the new system that cam with a lug already connected to it. I used a multimeter to make sure the place i connected ot to was a solid ground ( ie good connection betwen there and the rest of the car)

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Originally Posted by NewDan

The new system had a blue wire marked factory amp turn on... I took the wire from the M pin and connected it to that. The wiring was the same as the top picture except the colours were different, so I used a multimeter to confirm "hot all the time"... "hot in acc" ect . the speakers were easy because they came out of the dash in 4x two core cables and went to the same pins as the drawings.

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That should power up the amps, you may just want to check this wire has 12 volts when the stereo is turned on.

It's strange you are getting no sound at all.

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Originally Posted by NewDan

Hey guys, pin c is already connected to the body, it is the only wire on the new system that cam with a lug already connected to it. I used a multimeter to make sure the place i connected ot to was a solid ground ( ie good connection betwen there and the rest of the car)

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A) So are you using pin "C" in the plug itself or are you running the neg wire from your new unit directly to the body?

B) turn on your parkers & see if your dash lights themselves are still working?

The pin C wire ( -ve black on the new system) runs direct to the body, have checked and its a solid connection to the body. I would think of there was a problem with this the unit wouldn't power up. Dash lights and parkers all working ok. I'm going to pull it apart this weekend and check there is 12 volt on the amp power cable and have a fish around again. If all else fails I may just run wires direct to the speakers.

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Originally Posted by NewDan

The pin C wire ( -ve black on the new system) runs direct to the body, have checked and its a solid connection to the body. I would think of there was a problem with this the unit wouldn't power up. Dash lights and parkers all working ok. I'm going to pull it apart this weekend and check there is 12 volt on the amp power cable and have a fish around again. If all else fails I may just run wires direct to the speakers.

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Good stuff mate, there is a problem with fitting after market head units into Patrols where unless the after market replacement unit is interdependently grounded to the body they back feed through the factory loom Neg/ground pin & blow the fuse for the dash lights & yet they still power up but at a lower voltage (just enough to illuminate the face normally) which gives a false impression its fully powered up so I was only making sure we ruled that one out first.

Let us know how you get on & if your drawing blanks we can try to help you further.

All the best mate.

Just had a thought, the -ve ran to the pin C on the old unit. The new unit obviously has no pin C just a black wire coming out of it with a lug that I connected to the ground, and the wire I cut off the pin C is now just insulated and floating ( thought no reason to connect to the black wire as it had a lug on it for direct connection to the body. The amp unit is a plastic unit bolted under the seat so how does the amp get it's -ve. Could it be it would need it through the wire at pin c. I thought of it as sort of a -ve in for the old head not as a -ve going out to the amp. So would connecting that wire that was origonally at that pin direct to the body give the amp a -ve. Or would i blow the thing to Patrol heaven. (Is that what you were asking with your A) question patch?)

I wouldn't think so mate cos when pin "C" is connected directly to the body it blows the dash light fuse but I don't have the amp you run in yours so I can't be 100% on that either... Mr Nissan did some strange things that just defied logic.......lol

If your positive you've wired it all up correctly then I'd do as Yender recommended & & check you have 12v at pin "M" first.

Just a question? Did you say your new unit had 2x blue wires, one being power antenna the other being amp?

Just one blue wire , marked for use with either amp or antenna. Ive just been doing some reading on the net. Installdr.com has a section that says the premium systems are very hard to get the speakers working on when you do an aftermarket change over on. During the week I'll see how hard it is to get the door trims off and run wire directly from the speakers to the new pioneer unit. Im not overly fussed with the amp as im sure the levels without it will be ok for my untrained ear lol.

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Originally Posted by NewDan

Just one blue wire , marked for use with either amp or antenna. Ive just been doing some reading on the net. Installdr.com has a section that says the premium systems are very hard to get the speakers working on when you do an aftermarket change over on. During the week I'll see how hard it is to get the door trims off and run wire directly from the speakers to the new pioneer unit. Im not overly fussed with the amp as im sure the levels without it will be ok for my untrained ear lol.

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Im thinking along the lines that your new units output is to high for the factory amp & its clipping which can be overcome but Im tipping you'll find your new unit has as much power output as the factory amp, maybe even more so I'd go with your direct speaker hookup idea.

Do you have factory power windows, central locking or power mirrors in your jigger?

Yeah mate all that... I think its standard in the Ti

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Originally Posted by NewDan

Yeah mate all that... I think its standard in the Ti

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Behind the kick panels you should have plugs for the door wiring, now im not 100% sure but I think the speakers have a plug to themselves so if you can identify these plugs you won't need to rip your doors apart in order to tap into your speakers which will simplify things a bit for ya.

I hope Yender can shed some light on this to help you avoid pulling things apart unnecessarily.

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Originally Posted by patch697

Im thinking along the lines that your new units output is to high for the factory amp & its clipping which can be overcome but Im tipping you'll find your new unit has as much power output as the factory amp, maybe even more so I'd go with your direct speaker hookup idea.

Do you have factory power windows, central locking or power mirrors in your jigger?

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Paul I think you could be on the money, it's just strange there is no sound (noise) unless it has blown the amp????

Checking pin M for 12 volts with the amp wire connected and stereo on is just making sure the stereo is sending the signal.

I think the sound quality will be better running the speakers directly from the head unit, another vote for the direct hookup.

Sorry I have don't have a wiring diagram that coves this.

Maybe Todd has one that can tell us the colour of the speaker wires from the amp to the speakers???

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Originally Posted by Yendor

Paul I think you could be on the money, it's just strange there is no sound (noise) unless it has blown the amp????

Checking pin M for 12 volts with the amp wire connected and stereo on is just making sure the stereo is sending the signal.

I think the sound quality will be better running the speakers directly from the head unit, another vote for the direct hookup.

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Agreed....... I would have thought the same Rod, even if the new unit is to hot for the factory amp he still should be able to get something out of at low vol before the amp starts clipping unless it popped the amp on first start up.

Thanks Guys I'll have a crack at it this weekend, Got to have some sound while crusing along the beach this summer or my missus will sing to me.... omg got to get this thing working... hahahahahaha.. One other thing the manual says " USE ONLY SPEAKERS OVER 50W AND BETWEEN 4-8 OHM WITH THIS UNIT DO NOT USE 1-3 OHM. How can I check this.

It's written on the back of the speaker.

You can use an ohmmeter and measure the resistance across the speaker.