Hi,
I have a 98 GU-Ti.
Can I engage 4H or 4L whilst driving?
And secondly on the hubs I noticed a locked position stated. Does this mean that I have to manually lock the wheels.
regards
A
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Hi,
I have a 98 GU-Ti.
Can I engage 4H or 4L whilst driving?
And secondly on the hubs I noticed a locked position stated. Does this mean that I have to manually lock the wheels.
regards
A
No. You have to be stationary to lock the hubs and then engage 4l or 4h.
Cheers,
Rob
if the hub`s are auto yes you will have to lock them in place
i allways stop before engageing 4 low
4 high i wont engage over 20klm
others will give theirs as well mate
I thought once hubs were locked you could shift into 4H at 60+ but 4L in neutral and nearly stationary tis the case for me
You also may find that you will need to select nuetral to put it from 4h to 4l. As a rule I always stop when changing the transfer gears. Just another thing that can distract you whilst driving.
You should have auto-locking hubs, the locked position you speak of is where you can manually lock the hubs with a tyre iron. I can't remember why but it is better to manually lock the hubs even if they are auto hubs, something to do with reversing and them being stronger in this position, but don't quote me.
YOu can select from 2H to 4H on the fly upto 80km/h no problem at all. 4H to 2H at the same speed will be no problem.
4H to 4L should be done stationary and will basically be impossible beyond walking pace anyway.
And everything you want to know about Auto Hubs may be here mate
Auto or Manual Hubs - What have i got and how does it work
Hope that helps a bit mate, everyone is steering you straight mate.
Hey warnie im quoting you! lol. In the manual it says that the reason you can fit a tyre iron onto the hub is just in case the auto system fails and wont go in or out of 4wd, you can manually do it with the tyre iron.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warnie
Im fairly sure that it is safe to change from 2h to 4h up 60km/h. It should say this in the manual too.
Your car will have Auto hubs from factory, when set/left on the "Auto" position, Nissan suggests you can shift from 2H to 4H at speeds LESS than 40klms per hour, i have done this on my 99 GU up to 60klms per hour without issue, but again, not reccomended by Nissan.
If you have maually locked the hubs in the "lock" position (using the wheelbrace), it should be safe to engage 4H at higher speeds as the front diff/drive shaft etc is kept spinning, now driven by and locked to the front wheels.
Under all situations, going between 4H and 4L (or 4L to 4H) the vehicle should be stationary , and the transmission placed in Neutral first (regardless of hub position)
Think of auto hubs as manual hubs, but with a "built in" lazy man/soccer mum "convinience function", used for wet grass hills, snow, pulling the boat up the boat ramp sort of stuff.
The Auto hub position is handy if you travel up the beach with the family, or driving on flat dirt roads, crossing a bit of water etc, and woks very well for soft roading, and i love mine. :bananarock:
If you intend on doing any half serious 4wding, and especially if there is any posibility of getting suspension articulation, always lock the hubs with the wheelbrace, if in any doubt, lock the hubs.
Its a very common misconception that auto hubs are weak and should always be replaced with manual hubs, this is because they often break under hard conditions when on auto, but.......if you lock the hubs manually with the wheelbrace, they are now just as strong as the manual hubs.
Lots of info here.
If in doubt, read the Owner's Manual. Most trucks have a diagram under the driver's sun visor, too.
Take care out there and no crunching gears. lol
Rossco
I always stop and change from 2H - 4H or L in neutral. Most times you get out to lock hubs or check track conditions anyway. I believe it is better to do it stopped as it negates any chance of F*%$ing it up and doing damage, why do damage unnesacerely? I also used to lock my auto hubs manually every time I engaged 4x4 (have AVM now). Anyone who has done some serious 4x4ing will tell you they broke one and it would not unlock/lock ever again. If you lock it in manually it will help it to last the time. They work on helix like a dril bit. When the axle turns forward faster than the wheel the helix drives the splined section onto the axle locking the hub. That is why they say you should drive backwards when you unlock. This will wind the helix the other way which will unlock the hub as the wheel turns but the diff center and axles don't. The problem is when you are in 4H or L they can possibly be locking and unlocking without you knowing, not to big of a deal. Also if you are stuck in a bog and need to rock back and forth the hubs will lock unlock lock unlock repeatedly, bad news when your right foot is all the way in it. The major destroyer ( how I did my first one) is if you are nosed up against a ledge and you engage 4x4. If you don't have much run before you hit the ledge ( less than 300-500mm) and begin to climb the center and axles have not rotated far enough to fully engage the hub and you hear a loud bang which sounds allot like your front diff just died. If you manually lock none of these issues will arise and your hubs should last forever.
Thanks a million guys. Really good information to assist me.
Noted theres refrence to using a brace to lock the wheel locks. Is this a special tool? And how do I do this, i.e physically move the lock from an Auto to a Manual position? Thanks
Use your Wheel Brace mate. Nissan made a good decision when they made the hub nut the same size as the wheel nuts ;) When you put your wheel brace on it like a wheel nut imagine your turning a key a quarter turn, because you are, "Auto" to "Lock" Simple.Quote:
Originally Posted by anwarg
Merry Christmas. Have fun.