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Hi all,
Im working on installing my new boost and pyro guages in the coming days. I will be installing them in a pillar pod and was hoping somone could help me find a way back into the engine bay. Are there any easy gromits to use? Will i need to tear down my dash and if so are they any tips on how? Any pics would be helpful.
Much thanks
satyx
Hi satyx . I did remove the dash panel below the steering column and the right side kick panel . gives you heaps more room . once your kick
panel is off you can see some wiring going through the firewall above accellerator pedal. thats where I went . the dash panel under the column
is held in by the bonnet and fuel latch mount bolts and a couple of star screws and plastic snap in clips . Keep in mind if you want your lights to
work and dim with dimmer control , same as your dash . I kept going taking steering column plastics off , then wiper and blinker stork off then
dash surround out to get to dimmer . took some time mate but its all worth it .
thanks for the help Boots..
Hey mate i have just been through all this in the past month
here is a great thread with all the help i got.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...gauges-in-a-GU
I didnt pull out any of the dash. was able to feed the wired through the main grommit in the firewall and put my hand up and pull them through.
Ran them across under the steering wheel and fed them up the side near the fuse box.
Pretty easy mate to run the wires.
But i had alot of the wires for the gauges already whee they needed to be. There was an old gauge there.
Yeah cheers Leigh, i have been re-reading your thread over the last few days. There is defiantly a lot of valuable info in there. Im not quite as lucky as there is nothing installed in my GU and i was unsure as to where to run the wires. want to make this install as simple and painless as possible. Atm im have similar troubles finding someone to weld in my pyro and boost sensors. Seems everyone in my town doesnt want any of it, so they just blow out the quote for the job or flat out refuse to do it. Oh well ill get a mate to help out and try a backyard job of it. Hopefully this weekend ill be doing battle with the turbo heatshield and gauges. lol...
I have an auto so I send all my wiring through a blank plate I think the clutch would utilise. Easy to reach both sides and I can drill holes for cables as required without fingering my firewall ( use gromets for water tight integrity). Another good tip is while there pull some trailer multi-core cable through for any switching you may need in the future. Just sits there until you need another switch. keep it long enough in the engine bay to reach where you are mounting your relay/fuses.
hey satyx
mate jus goin through his at the mo
from your pillar pod take the old pillar cover off & next to the dash there is a small gap between he dash & pillar, runs your wires & boost line through & it drops out next to ur kick panell
i drilled & tapped my t piece into my boost line myself
pirtek for the tee, toolshop for drill & tap
as for the egt i am at heatsheild stage what a pain in the a... , i booked my car in over he phone at the local ozfit when i went to drop it off he started caring on that oh no it cant be done so hence i will try and do myself
lots of info from the guys on here & all help out heaps so have fun mate
So worth are you reinstalling the original a pillar cover or just using the new pod one? The instructions i recieved seem to indicate installing the new one on top of the original one.Quote:
Originally Posted by WORTHOS6
When I fitted mine, despite what the instructions said, I removed the original pillar trim in the hope it may give a bit more room for wires etc. I then fitted the L.H. pillar grab handle to hold the lot securely [it's the same as the R.H.] and bought a new one for the LHS [dealer price approx. $37]
Interesting GRA.GU ..... was the LHS side a better fit or something? I would have thought they would be the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by GRA.GU
Have you mounted them?
tackling them on Sat with a friend. hopefully get them all done ready for a shake down test on Sun on some of the local beaches and dunes.
Yeah, I'm curious about this too. What happened to the original RH handle?Quote:
Originally Posted by satyx
I received my Autron gauges & pillar pod during the week. Now just have to find someone to weld the bungs in. I've got one guy who will do it but charges by the hour so a bit tentative to line him up.
I've had a look at the heat shield & I think that with an air ratchet I should be able to get to most of the bolts - does anyone know if are there any hiding out of sight?
i just put the new one over the old but if you have a new pod you have to cut the pod base
i checked out both ways but over the old cover i think is a nicer fit
Sorry Stevo and Satyx, I didn't see your questions until now.
No, there is no advantage to changing handles - they are identical. It was just that mine, being a DX, did not have a RH handle and fitting one was the most effective way to hold the pillar pod on. Cheers fellas.
Thanks GRA. Yep, I installed mine yesterday, didn't use the original underneath, just used the handle to keep it in place. I put some foam in behind to keep things nice and tight.
ok that explains it.
cheers GRA.GU
Did you have to modify the pod to fit as suggested above a couple posts. ? Thanks
Yes I had to trim off a small portion on the base of the pod. will throw up some pics soon of the job half finished. Has been a very busy few months.Quote:
Originally Posted by bastardo