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The driver's electric window in my Patrol seems to skip a little on the way down (doesn't do it if I keep a little weight on the glass), but going up all is good. Also when the window is completely wound down there is a rattle in the door which disappears when the window is wound up a little.
Anything I could be looking for to solve these little problems? Also has anyone got any good instructions for pulling the door trim off the inside of the door to have a look?
First thing I'd be checking is the condition of the bailey channel.
Even if it looks ok I'd replace it as it tends to go hard & given its the drivers door im tipping it'll be shagged anyway.
Clark rubber as it for around $15 a meter.
Patch, is the bailey channel the channel the glass runs down in? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Just had a bit more of a play with the window, and it seams that the glass is somehow getting left behind a bit when winding down by the winder mechanism, and the skip that I described is actually the glass dropping back on the winder and following it down again.
How is the glass attached to the winder mechanism, anyone know?
Yep thats the stuff & mate, no question is a dumb one on here.Quote:
Originally Posted by XTC
Its been a while but I have had mine out once or twice & from memory its attached via 2x nylon rollers that run in a steel channel at the bottom of the glass.Quote:
Originally Posted by XTC
Given its age I would expect a bit of movement in the regulator so a bit of free play in the glass itself would not be unexpected.
Im still tipping its your bailey channel at this stage.
Im determined to pull the door trim off on my next days off, and see what is actually going on in there. It's had this problem for years now, but the rattle is starting to pi55 me off a little.
Keep us posted on what you find out.Quote:
Originally Posted by XTC
I bet you will find its just a couple of loose bolts, the ones that bolt the window mechanism to the inner door skin.
Every time you put the window fully up or down , the inner door skin flexes and moves just enough to allow the bolts to work loose over time, driving around does the rest.
Once the bolts are loose they allow the mech to move out of place, and so the window becomes sloppy in the channels, the mech will also rattle like a bugger, until you put the window up or down to apply sideways pressure on the loose bolts against the skin, thus taking away your rattle.
The good news is it costs nothing to fix, just a 10mm socket and a few turns, check for bolts that fall out or in the bottom of the door if you are missing one, while you have it apart its a good time to lube the mech as well.
Thanks mate, I'll let you all know towards the end of the week when I have a look.
Looks like 04OFF was right on the money with his suggestion about the problem being caused by the bolts which hold the winding mechanism to the inner door skin.
One bolt had fallen out and the other 3 were loose. You can see in the pic where the remaining bolts had been sliding up and down on the inner skin of the door, which was obviously causing the window to skip on the way down.
I also found where the guides on the bottom of the glass had been hitting the inner door skin also, so bent the skin away from this area to avoid any more contact.
Removing the door trim was a relatively easy job after I had a look at the "INTERIOR TRIM" section of an electronic workshop manual for the vehicle.
Hope the pics below of some of this job help someone else out.
Cheers Mate for the update & pics that went with.
Im glad it was a nice cheap fix for ya. So hows it all working now? Are you happier with it?
Patch, I gave it a good test and the window action seems to be back to original now.
I'm very happy with the fix, and can't believe I have put up with this for so long, knowing now how easy it was to fix.
Thanks also for your suggestions. It's great to have people offer up suggestions as it gives you somewhere to start looking.