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I have 3 different nutsert tools for metric and imperial nutserts, alum/steel/SS. They can be quite challenging to use at times and require aAttachment 87149 lot of grunt to seat. I came across this set-up and it works from a nut driver with the hex drive chuck - absolutely brilliant, simple, effortless and for use up to 10mm steel and SS nutserts.
I like it! The hand squeezy jobs are (SHH!) at my age a challenge at times on the bigger diameters.
Will be keeping a look out for a set.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/155030928117
Here it is, used it again today, so simple
Just put it on my shopping list to order today. That will be 3 different nutsert tools in the drawer. At 78 I'm starting to have trouble pushing the arms together even on the long armed tool with 6mm stainless. I wouldn't try 8mm stainless without putting pipes on the arms and there isn't always room for that..
You need spinach mate and do the old Popey thing. Forgive me for the old.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
Attachment 87150
I have a Pnuematic one and it works a treat, will check that out though for sure. I was mounting a shower tent to the side of my caravan a coule of weeks ago and was using big SS Rivets to hold the mounts, me AND my 17yo son were swinging off the poprivet gun together and it nearly killed us both. I have since bought basically the same as yours there but for pop rivets but have not used it yet, the concept seems perfcet in a modern world of 18v everything.
There was a voucher for $9.90 so got it for $56.09
Love an ebay voucher!Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
What I really like is the 18V tool has the clutch set point so no more thread stripping especially on the mild steel units as its difficult I found to get the seating force correct, especially if moving across from aluminium. This way, you simply let the tool crank up, then it starts to slip when the clutch setting is reached, its either seated or not, adjusted clutch again to do the final tweak. Great device, love it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
I was watching a YT vid of a guy using one and his method was to not use a clutch and allow the drill itself to start to twist from his hand. He’s obviously not holding the drill too tightly.
Probably a good idea to play with it on some scrap with the different types of rivnuts to see what works best with your own drill.
No problems, whatever works I guess. As soon as I say one method there will be 20 other ways to do it. The method I described is in the operating instructions, which by the way are crap. As a heads up, wind the tool in reverse, either by hand or in the drill until the treaded spindle is at a stop, bu the hex drive shaft. Then screw on the insert, and reverse the direction of the drill to lock the rivnut in place. I found a 0.5 - 1mm clearance was about right, and push the rivnut hard against the locking surface to stop it spinning - little 'findings' I noticed.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
In my case I feel it hard to identify the line between tight enough and stripping the threads, which happens a lot when I use mine. Mine is a plier tipe, just like a pop-rived tool.Quote:
Originally Posted by Touses