Front Auto Hubs???

Question about the front auto hubs on GUs.

Do they bind up?

Occasionally when taking off, I get a thump noise from underneath, just like the sound you'd get if you drove over a branch on the road, also sounds like something unbinding or freeing up after being held.

I've also heard scraping noise from the front end, just like when you drag a branch underneath along the road.

I pulled over one day and the right hand side hub was noticeably warmer (not hot) than the left. I span the locking bolt in the hub around about 6 times and the noise went away.

I've heard that these hubs are strong and heard that they aren't, so have no idea. Are they known to fail or known to be darn strong? Anyone know?

Thanks for any info.

I have read on this forum that too much grease in the AutoHub can cause them to engage.

Failing that, it might sound insane, but just check that your handbrake is releasing properly. My Q had that very same sound after parking on a slight downhill slope. I got out and searched for a stuck stick or stone. Unable to find anything, I got back in and drove off with no weird sound. It happened a couple of times before I realised it was the handbrake just barely hanging on.

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Originally Posted by mudnut

I have read on this forum that too much grease in the AutoHub can cause them to engage.

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That's interesting. That could be something to look at. I had the mechanic look at the front hubs and bearings a little while back coz of this noise. He said he packed them again. I wonder if he put too much grease in the hubs and the hubs are now moving towards engaging and thereby rubbing and thereby making the noise I'm hearing???????

Thanks Craig.

I believe these hubs are strong. Genuine ones definitely the best. The "Auto" function is what plays up on them sometimes. They can engage and disengage at will.
Mine 2 were clicking and carrying on sometimes, on both my Patrols. Took them out and converted to Manual. Best thing I've done. Now its either locked or unlocked.
Very handy if you need 2WD Low. Like reversing trailers or boats up inclines or driveways or whatever...

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Originally Posted by hodge

i believe these hubs are strong. Genuine ones definitely the best. The "auto" function is what plays up on them sometimes. They can engage and disengage at will.
Mine 2 were clicking and carrying on sometimes, on both my patrols. Took them out and converted to manual. Best thing i've done. Now its either locked or unlocked.
Very handy if you need 2wd low. Like reversing trailers or boats up inclines or driveways or whatever...

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^^^^^^ this ^^^^^

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

^^^^^^ this ^^^^^

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Hey Daz, do you mean 'this' about the auto hubs being strong or 'this' about removing them and putting in manual ones?

Keep the hubs you have and just do the easy mod. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S0Plk7Yscg

Autohubs locking is based on axle shafts relative movement in relation to the hubs. So, hub still and axle moving will cause it to lock (as intended, by the way). If the TC oil happens to be too thick, it could transfer some movement to the front driveshaft even disengaged. Little movement, no torque whatsoever, but enough to have the axles engage the autohub. Happened in my GQ and I recall seeing it explained here somewhere.

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Originally Posted by BrazilianY60

Autohubs locking is based on axle shafts relative movement in relation to the hubs. So, hub still and axle moving will cause it to lock (as intended, by the way). If the TC oil happens to be too thick, it could transfer some movement to the front driveshaft even disengaged. Little movement, no torque whatsoever, but enough to have the axles engage the autohub. Happened in my GQ and I recall seeing it explained here somewhere.

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Hence the auto trans fluid specification for the TC which confused me greatly until I think it was @mudnut who explained it, then it all made sense!

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Originally Posted by BrazilianY60

Autohubs locking is based on axle shafts relative movement in relation to the hubs. So, hub still and axle moving will cause it to lock (as intended, by the way). If the TC oil happens to be too thick, it could transfer some movement to the front driveshaft even disengaged. Little movement, no torque whatsoever, but enough to have the axles engage the autohub. Happened in my GQ and I recall seeing it explained here somewhere.

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Ahhh, I see. Thanks bud.

I got the thump sound again this morning, due the crap roads, it's hard to notice, but you do notice it.

It's like when you drive on pavement with a locker on. You turn and a locked wheel slips, you get that kind of thump and you sense something has just released itself from being under pressure.

It's happened several times, but I can remember it happening at the same turn on the drive to work, about 1 km after leaving home.

This morning it sounded like it came from the middle of the vehicle.

Could the gearbox or transfer case bind/wind up if the breathers are blocked???? The thump seems come from the middle.

Did you want to bring it to my joint to have a look at it?

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Originally Posted by mudnut

Did you want to bring it to my joint to have a look at it?

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Yep. I'll PM you.

I'm planning to remove the locking rings in my autohubs ... just use the wheel nut spanner to engage them when needed

I had this issue on both my GU6 and GU8, and the cheapest way is to convert to manual locking hub, like the vid muddy posted.
30min work,but then I had to get my lazy arse out of the car to lock/unlock


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I'm thinking of converting to manual.

Also thinking of fitting a Lokka diff in the front. Can't justify the cost of elocker or air locker, but the Lokka, it just squeezes in on cost.

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Originally Posted by Plasnart

Hence the auto trans fluid specification for the TC which confused me greatly until I think it was @mudnut who explained it, then it all made sense!

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Well, ATF is not the only recommended oil for the TC, by Nissan's standards. I interpret this recommendation like this:
If you have an AUTO, then use ATF on the TC just in case seals fail between the AT and the TC, no harm is done.
If you have a MANUAL, then use the GL4 stuff the same as the MT, so if seals fail, again, no harm is done.

If the GL4 stuff (90w75, etc) is too thick for your location temperatures, then it may cause this that we are talking about. Just change to a thinner oil on the list (as long as it is GL4) and retry.

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Originally Posted by BrazilianY60

Well, ATF is not the only recommended oil for the TC, by Nissan's standards. I interpret this recommendation like this:
If you have an AUTO, then use ATF on the TC just in case seals fail between the AT and the TC, no harm is done.
If you have a MANUAL, then use the GL4 stuff the same as the MT, so if seals fail, again, no harm is done.

If the GL4 stuff (90w75, etc) is too thick for your location temperatures, then it may cause this that we are talking about. Just change to a thinner oil on the list (as long as it is GL4) and retry.

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My '94 manual GQ Transfer Case is listed to use ATF.

I had issues with crunching into gear when cold in a partially rebuilt gearbox. The mechanic that had fitted it for me, had added 5GL oil and his advice was to add a bit of ATF that will help with smooth cold changes. But being a new member of this forum, at the time, the advice from a member, to drain the gearbox oil and refill it with GL4 made all the difference. Another older mechanic had also suggested adding a bit of ATF as well. From this I have come to the conclusion that gearbox oil diluted ATF isn't so bad. But on saying that, there are numerous brass components in the Nissan manual boxes that might eventually be eroded by ATF.

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Originally Posted by mudnut

…….But on saying that, there are numerous brass components in the Nissan manual boxes that might eventually be eroded by ATF.

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And also GL5 apparently. That’s why it’s so important to stick with the lubes specified for your particular model.

GL5 on gearboxes suchs when cold and is bad for the syncros indeed.

Around here, GL4 is getting harder to find in different thickness specifications.

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Originally Posted by 10G

Yeah, I'm thinking of converting to manual.

Also thinking of fitting a Lokka diff in the front. Can't justify the cost of elocker or air locker, but the Lokka, it just squeezes in on cost.

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Best bang for buck you can get!

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Originally Posted by 10G

Hey Daz, do you mean 'this' about the auto hubs being strong or 'this' about removing them and putting in manual ones?

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Apologies, yes to both. The Auto Hubs are plenty string enough, there are a couple of winch challenge comp trucks running Autos as the Manual hubs are becoming scarce. Remove the ring and full send it.

Thanks Daz.

Went around to @mudnut's place yesterday and removed the rings. Proof will be in wheeling as it was an intermittant problem. But it's good to have it done, it's removed one possibility and it was good to catch up with mudnut again.

It was good to see you, again. After hearing your account, I've put the Stock Route trip on my Bucket List.

When we stripped the hub locks off, I could see how the excess grease could affect them, especially as it gets hardened with age. I hope the conversion solves the noises.