2012 GU CRD.
Hey all, how hard is it to replace the tensioner (fan belt) on a CRD engine? Mine is starting to give a few seconds of squealing on start up when cold.
Cheers all.
https://patrolapart.com.au/product/g...th-belt-zd30cr
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2012 GU CRD.
Hey all, how hard is it to replace the tensioner (fan belt) on a CRD engine? Mine is starting to give a few seconds of squealing on start up when cold.
Cheers all.
https://patrolapart.com.au/product/g...th-belt-zd30cr
Compress the old one...unbolt, clean gasket faces, fit new one, pull the "hand grenade" pin... Never done it on that engine/vehicle but it's not a massive job if you have spanners.
Have you checked that belt isn't worn beyond spec? that's a cheaper exercise... and a can of "belt grip" spray should see you right for plenty of kilometers...
Heya mate. The job its self is cake. Belt off, Bolt off , bolt on, belt on pretty much. Getting to it is the hardest part. Japanese hands required. Two stubbies worth of a job I reckon.
When I owned a 3L CRD, I replaced 2 in a matter of 6 months. High country water crossings!
The water washes the grease out of it and it begins squealing, eventually seizing if not dealt with.
Tim Bates here speaks of it...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWImVhxqbuQ
PS. If you go to Patrolapart to pick it up, if you ask nicely, the legends may even fit it for you on the spot. Few minutes work for them. They can probably do it with eyes shut.
I've just ordered the Patrolapart kit. There is a bit of a back story here. About 2 years ago I had the same issue. I took it to my local mechanic and got him to replace the tensioner. Which he did. He said at the time he sourced a non genuine unit as it was cheaper than the OEM part...... So the original tensioner lasted 200k and the after market unit lasted about 30K and two years. I think that a good reason to get genuine parts when possible.
FFS. Sometimes I just cant win. Looks like a new radiator. Put my elbow down in the wrong place. Shit.
Attachment 86577
Shit mate. The good old "Lean onto the radiator barb " bonanza ....Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldcomfort
Been there my friend !
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On the bright side. It will make changing the belt tensioner that little bit easier.
Best to come up from underneath to change out belt tensioner_remove lower radiator cowl shroud section first (ie: clips).Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldcomfort
Would it be a bad idea to thread a brass barb onto the plastic radiator top thingo?
Probably a bad idea. I think a big part of the reason it broke is the fact that the plastic has become brittle. I might investigate an all alloy replacement.
I think it's been tried and tested. From barb's to plastic welding old one back one. Can't recall anyone having success.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrazilianY60
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Picked up my new radiator yesterday. Its made by Koyorad ($395 from Natrad). A Japanese company with a pretty good track record. Comparing it to the Nissan unit I really cant see any difference.
Weekend full of Patrol reassembly coming up.
Yeah Koyorad radiators are really good. Built to factory spec. I have one in my Patrol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldcomfort
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When I bought a radiator from Patrolapart for my 3L back in the day im pretty sure it was Koyorad.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
After I removed the old tensioner I had a good look at it. The bearing felt smooth and easy to spin. No sideways slop and definitely no noise. But after some poking and prodding I discovered that the pivot bushing that the hydraulic spring in attached to the main body was as sloppy as a nuns shirt sleeve. I'm guessing that this slop would relieve some of the tension on the serpentine belt. Hence the squeal.
Just another thought for you Coldcomfort ... I had the squeal for ages - changed out my tensioner thinking it was gone as it is 'always' the tensioner, and the squeal went away for a few weeks - it returned and when i checked it properly it actually turned out to be the alternator pulley, which basically fell off in my hand after i found it. It should be fairly obvious with the tension off the belt when you look at it if that is it.
Another thing to check....
The burping has begun. Spent some time last night burping the radiator. All went well but I suspect that there may still be an amount of air in the system. I put the front wheels up on ramps and squeezed the hoses. Saw lots of air make its way out the radiator cap orifice. I'll do some more tonight but I thought I would ask if there is any "good" ways to do this? On my scan gauge the coolant temp never went above 86c. But I suspect that it will get to around 86 > 89 when actually driven.