Help ZD30DDTI getting Hot

Hi All Im New to this forum and to owning a patrol I have a slight overheating issue with my patrol I have recently replaced the thermostat, water pump lower radiator hose, the radiator is 4 years old coolant at 50% mixture so what happens is when driving for no real reason the temp will rise as high as 110 deg and then will drop back to around 100 deg on some tracks in low range not working really hard and then i get back on the hwy and it will drop back to 82 deg and then jump up to 96deg its all over the shop i don't seem to have any leaks and every thing seems to be in good order I mot sure why it gets so hot and then cool down so its not getting hot all the time. doing my head in.

is it a DI or CRD . does it have a bullbar , if it is the standard ARB bullbar there is a plate underneath that goes from the bullbar to the body infront of the radiator , it helps funnel air thru the radiator . there is also a airdam that is connected to the body after the radiator and drops down infront of the steering gear , this helps maintain the low pressure area in the enginebay as does the rubber skirts in the front wheel arches by separating the high pressure zone in the wheel arch area from the low pressure zone in the engine bay . there is also a rubber strip on the underside of the bonnet at the front that stops air from going over the top of the radiator . all these things are important and need to be there to create a high pressure zone in front of the radiator and a low pressure zone behind the radiator to cause air to flow thru the radiator .at low speed the fan does the job if it is working correctly .

My first CRD would get hot under load (hills mostly). Replaced everything that you have incl radiator and it still got hot. Ended up being rooted injectors $$$

Thank you for your help I think I will take it to my mechanic to see what his thoughts are.

Viscous hub not kicking in? When the motor is hot is there any resistance if you try to spin the fan by hand?

What Mudski said x 2... dodgy viscous hub is easily the most common issue in 'hot' ZD30's... not always certainly but more often than not.

Legends All Above, definitely worth testing/checking [emoji106][emoji106]
Have had a few bog stock Nissan motor variants and have too been unfortunately let down once by a Nissan Viscous Hub on a TD42 work touring.
A safest test IMHO is to roll up a ‘newspaper’ and or ‘Pizza half Box’ to tickle your fan blades whilst running stinking hot (away/opposite from the kickback, let it glide/away from holding) a highly worrying temperature’hot’ spike roadside……quickly…..
Turning the vehicle off will somewhat instantly stop radiator/fan pull from actively showing true results through the designed liquid within[emoji120][emoji120]


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Thank you all for your response.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ynot65

Hi All Im New to this forum and to owning a patrol I have a slight overheating issue with my patrol I have recently replaced the thermostat, water pump lower radiator hose, the radiator is 4 years old coolant at 50% mixture so what happens is when driving for no real reason the temp will rise as high as 110 deg and then will drop back to around 100 deg on some tracks in low range not working really hard and then i get back on the hwy and it will drop back to 82 deg and then jump up to 96deg its all over the shop i don't seem to have any leaks and every thing seems to be in good order I mot sure why it gets so hot and then cool down so its not getting hot all the time. doing my head in.

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Thanks a lot for all the replies. I will take it to my mechanic to see what his thoughts are.

IF it proves to be the fan hub, refilling one isn't a major job. need silicone grease and a shitload of brake-cleaner or similar solvent.
Some have a bolt in a hole to facilitate draining/filling, some you get to make your own hole.
Though with the cost of aftermarket spares you really have to weigh up what your time's worth.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mihit

IF it proves to be the fan hub, refilling one isn't a major job. need silicone grease and a shitload of brake-cleaner or similar solvent.
Some have a bolt in a hole to facilitate draining/filling, some you get to make your own hole.
Though with the cost of aftermarket spares you really have to weigh up what your time's worth.

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The ZD hubs are a sealed unit. Unless you drill a hole in it…


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