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Hi all I was going to change my thermostat today on my CRD 07 patrol and thought the bolts were at the front I was wrong lol, looks easy but bloody tight space on the bottom one, the top one would you agree alternator out then top bolt will be easy to remove. Any tips on removing bottom one ? Small spanner would that be the only way ? Would you use any gasket seal ? I know to remove the tyre and side covers.
Any info to make it easier would be good.
Cheers Dave
Yeah removing the alternator will make things easier. Other tip would be to hold your tongue right for the bottom bolt. Its a PIA to remove from memory.
I think I will put this one in the to hard bag lol, 2 x bolts easy to look and simple job but I have spent 1 hr trying to remove it, air con pipe in the way can only can get a small socket or spanner on it but it is so tight, I’m worried I might strip the bolt. And my hands are to bloody big for that gap lol might leave it for next week.
I’m thinking it’s the viscous hub now as when cold it moves a little and when hot it’s the same it moves a little so thinking it’s that not the thermostat, engine temp only goes up when pushing the car, normal driving it’s sits around 88/89. But when I put my foot down it goes up to 96/98 then goes back to 88 when I don’t push it ??
Ive had two GU CRD's they both creep up. The first one I had got quite hot going up a decent hill. Ended up being injectors FUBAR.Quote:
Originally Posted by madchef
Check out a post I made on another forum
https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/gu...4/post-7088761
I have a 2009 motor and it's way different. Bolts on the back side and an absolute nightmare to do, until you've done it once.
The thermostat size is different too. The larger one is the one I needed 64mm. The Nissan OEM part is 82 degrees opening. Tridon do a 76 degree one. Can't be found doing a search for Nissan parts, but can be found by comparing specs.
Specs are; the flange diameter and the seating depth.
I put Nissan Genuine coolant in and she runs warm. It's more of an antifreeze. Another member is using 10Tenths glycol free coolant and it's working wonders (for Queensland). If you're going to be going into freezing temps over winter and require more antifreeze, perhaps go the Genuine coolant.
Oh, I cut a ratchet spanner in half to have a stubby ratcheting ring end and a stubby open end. This saved my life.
I also had to remove the alternator. I got away with unbolting it, moving it aside, leaving the leads on.
Oh, and don't lean on any plastic tanks on the overflow or on top of the radiator. Trust me, they're brittle from the age.
Cheers,
Lionel
just thought i'd mention this as i think a few people have cost themselves a lot of bother and money chaseing the wrong issue . have you checked to make sure all the aero flow components are there as it is a bit of a delicate balance to ensure enough air flow thru the radiator . assuming you have a bullbar is the plate that goes from the bullbar to the bottom of the radiator there , is the air dam in front of the steering gear there ( a big lift will make this much less effective) . are the rubber curtans on the inside of the wheel arches there ( they separate high pressure wheel arch area from low pressure engine bay area ) . if any of these things are damaged or missing it could make a significant difference to the air flow thru the radiator.
Are those temps really that bad?Quote:
Originally Posted by madchef
No not bad but 2 months ago temp always sat at 90 never really moved under load or off road then it just changed , so I changed fluid and temp were better but put my foot down it goes up fast can hit 100, so it makes me a little paranoid as something has changed ??
Nothing is missing and good air flow, just bought a viscous hub cheap one just to see if it changes if not I’ll change the thermostat.
I’m Not worried just want to know why it has changed. Also might be selling and want it all good.
Need to get a mechanic to check the injectors if you've exhausted all other options. i did bloody everything on my first crd, most likely for no reason as the injectors were the cause of overheating
Well I changed the viscous fan hub and all seems good now lol what a different sound this fan makes now lol glad I never changed the thermostat but have that as spare now, thanks for your help, I think I will service this one and have it as a spare.
mine hovers around 78 according to the engine guard sensor near the alternator mount (it might not be the best place to pick up the temp)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickhead
What is the 3.0L CRD’s optimal OEM running temperature listed Legend’s?
If it’s anything like Mr Nissan’s old school diesel secrets good luck finding that much truly needed information [emoji26]
FWIW: I Nuffy believe diesels love warmer/hotter stability…..stable spike +/- 10C max fluctuations from peak performance the better…all year ambient conditions whatever [emoji120][emoji120]
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