Complete list of work to do for a 2" body lift.

G'day, All. What is required to complete a body lift. What are the Pros and Cons of such a venture.

I have already ditched the 2" springs and shocks given to me, because they were suited for a much heavier vehicle. I found the ride very harsh and the whole on road feel not very appealing. I lived with the uncorrected caster, but never liked the body roll and lack of on road feel.

The body mounts are pretty well shot, so I am toying with fitting a body lift so I can retain the standard suspension, and keep the centre of gravity low.

All points of view welcome.

Hey mate,

I haven't got a list, nor have I done it myself, but I toyed with the idea on my first gq but ended up with a suited suspension kit. I believe there is a bit more with involved with the body lift as it affects other things like gear and transfer lever and such you need to modify the cutout and extend the levers. In the end I just replaced springs and shocks, a much simpler job.

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Craig I did a 1" lift and it wasn't hard, just need a clar area, some jacks and take your time. The two rear corner bolts are a bastard and you will need to butcher around the inside hole. Also on my 1997 GQ wagon there was an unseen floor to rear cross tube fixture that let go with a big noise! 1" is obvious regards the gap to front and rear bar without modification. I didn't have any noticable issues with cables or steering or gear sticks. Have not noticed any differemNce in handling but mine is a boat anyway. Just buy a kit and you should get all the bits

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

Craig I did a 1" lift and it wasn't hard, just need a clar area, some jacks and take your time. The two rear corner bolts are a bastard and you will need to butcher around the inside hole. Also on my 1997 GQ wagon there was an unseen floor to rear cross tube fixture that let go with a big noise! 1" is obvious regards the gap to front and rear bar without modification. I didn't have any noticable issues with cables or steering or gear sticks. Have not noticed any differemNce in handling but mine is a boat anyway. Just buy a kit and you should get all the bits

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What tyres did the 1" lift alow you to run, Phil?

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Originally Posted by mudnut

What tyres did the 1" lift alow you to run, Phil?

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I was running 32" then went to 33" as max legal. I did also push the front diff forward by 15mm or something - long time ago. The reason I pushed it forward was scrubbing on the factory flare mud flap. The major or main reason to do the lift was to clear the Supercharger snout pulley as it hit the bonnet. I was told to go 1" and it really needed 2", so had to add the bonnet bulge - oh the joys of this conversion are coming back. I had the body lift included in the engineering process and approved by the VASS engineer on the basis the tires limit was 33", the coils 2" lift and it passed the brake tests, which it did with factory pads and calipers.

How much did the 15 mm forward affect the steering?

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Originally Posted by mudnut

How much did the 15 mm forward affect the steering?

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Didn't make any difference from what I can tell

Hey Muddy, I have 1 inch in mine. Main reason for little bit more guard clearance (running 35's), sub tank plumbing works better and that's about it. I've got Boss coil tower braces that work fine but if you want to go a superior tower brace they need a lift (1 will do). I also picked up a second hand bar that was already adjusted for a one inch lift so that was the deciding factor really. If you do go body lift all barwork will need to be adjusted (front bar, sliders, rear bar) little bit on bottom of radiator shroud needs to be removed and gear & transfer levers will be lower in cab (which personally don't mind).

If you do go ahead watch the rear body mounts they're loc tighted in and can break the captive nuts in the body and will have to butcher the cab to get to them. Give em some heat will hopefully do the trick. The rest is fairly straight forward will need to slide the steering column down the spline by loosening the nut also. .

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Sounds good. What kit is the best to get?

I'd go poly and in black, more inconspicuous and won't degrade like white. As long as they're 70mm diameter all good. There are a couple of mounts on the rear cross member which don't usually come in a kit, think I've got some spare 50mm ones (1 inch lift 50mm diameter) which work well on the crossmember I can send you if you like. .

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I will keep that very generous offer in mind, thanks Rossco.