The best mods you've done?

List the top three mods that you are most pleased with/have improved your vehicle.
Include any photos or links to build threads.

Try to provide these details:
(Difficulty level: 1 – 10 [1 = easiest to 10 = hardest])


1.
• Modification:
• Ballpark cost:
• Difficulty level:
• Pics/links:
• Anything you would do differently?:
• Comments/observations:

2.
• Modification:
• Ballpark cost:
• Difficulty level:
• Pics/links:
• Anything you would do differently?:
• Comments/observations:

3.
• Modification:
• Ballpark cost:
• Difficulty level:
• Pics/links:
• Anything you would do differently?:
• Comments/observations:

Here is my list so far, I'm sure it will change as modifications progress :)

1.
• Modification: Steering wheel audio controls
• Ballpark cost: —$90 for buttons from wreckers yard
• Difficulty level: 8 because I had to work out how it connected, but I've documented the process thoroughly so I'd say it's more like a 2 or 3 with that info on hand.
• Pics/links: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post787795
• Anything you would do differently?: No, but there are multiple button configurations/markings across different models. I was fortunate enough to find one at a wreckers that matched the programming I wanted to use.
• Comments/observations: This has made the driving experience so much more enjoyable/easier. I use this A LOT every time I drive the car. Well worth doing!

2.
• Modification: EGT/boost gauge with switchable temp sensor and independent dimmer control
• Ballpark cost: —$678 for Redarc G52-VVA, G52-BET, GS-UT-80 and GS-OWT1-4
$25 for a Patrol GU dimmer from wreckers
• Difficulty level: 9 (but that was because I had real trouble wiring any kind of dimmer to control the gauge brightness. I'm an electrical novice, but I'm learning. Part of my failings was using a dimmer from a Nissan Pathfinder which looked the same but I later found was different to the Patrol).
• Pics/links: Part 1 http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post792967
Part 2 http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post795455
• Anything you would do differently?: I drilled the hole next to the voltmeter for the programming button, which didn't need to be accessed after the installation, so that's where the temp switch sits. Not a big problem and it's in an easily accessible location.
• Comments/observations: The dimmer is fantastic when driving on very dark highways at night. I often turn the illumination off to reduce glare.
I leave the temp switch set on water, but I frequently see what the ambient air temp is. Useful to satisfy my curiosity mostly.

3.
• Modification: Dual Battery and power to the cargo area to run a fridge
• Ballpark cost: —around $400 for the kit and materials and $315 for the battery.
• Difficulty level: 4 running the cable through the firewall and to the rear of the car was probably the most challenging. Not hard, just time-consuming. Connecting the dual battery system with a voltage sensing relay is very straightforward.
• Pics/links: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post780552
• Anything you would do differently?: This was a really good start to get a fridge running off a second battery, but I'm now looking at a DCDC charger that I can also run a solar input when camping.
• Comments/observations: my alternator stopped working not long after I installed the dual battery system. It might have been a coincidence as it was the factory alternator and the car had done 290,000kms.

Hands down.....Running Water.

Maybe $150. The tap was the most expensive part and difficult to find but a pretty basic setup.

http:////youtube.com/shorts/zS1S9xTw...S1S9xTwVJE</a>

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Hands down.....Running Water.

Maybe $150. The tap was the most expensive part and difficult to find but a pretty basic setup.

//youtube.com/shorts/zS1S9xTwVJE]
https://youtu.be/zS1S9xTwVJE

---

Yeah nice that's defiantly next ish on the list. . .

Hard to pick but TD conversion (crickies knows started at 7Kish then pump, turbo etc) Lockers (again crickies knows did 4.6 gears at same time) and Highmount (900 ish for starters then sum. .) for me but also drawers, good seats & shocks close runners up although fridge and second battery as number one almost a no brainer and essential really lol. . .

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#24Volttheshitouttaeverything

Was a lot of work, difficult install and a big wad of cash but 24v to my Himount is right up there too.

Running water in the GU for Touring and 24v in the GQ for extreme come what may.

#1 LoKKa in me GQ
$400 and a couple hours to install
Full bigO4x4 4” lift in ol Agatha also
$3080 and blood sweat n tears skun knuckles profanities galore and a full day in time
Aaaaand MTZ’s

Best mod by far was converting the TB45E auto to TD42T auto with the Nomad valve body then adding the Rueben Bauer 11mm IP with a P4x4 TD05 18G.
$7k conversion doing it all myself and selling the TB45E for $1k, $2k for the pump changing it myself & $2.4k for the 18G turbo but did sell the rebuilt Mamba 16G for $800 not long ago.

Next best would be the 3550 kg GVM upgrade where the 2 degree castor bushes got rid of the last little shimmy at 100 km/h. Cost just over $2k changing all the suspension myself.
I had done the Boss bolt in coil tower mod myself prior to that but it wasn't required for the GVM plate.

Rocker cover breather mod to condense oil vapour before it gets to the Provent has worked well. Nothing in the Provent after 5k kms.. Only cost, apart from the Provent itself, that I recall was the 2 x 25mm ally barbs. Did all the tig work myself.

Everything listed in my signature contributes to making our remote area tourer work as intended. A vehicle which will take us anywhere in Australia & ability to remain out bush for extended periods. We commonly go 4 weeks between needing to shop but 6 weeks is quite do-able. Makes a huge difference to how we can travel. Favourite mods were 1.the 3” exhaust +dyno +Redarc gauges in pillar pod. (Modest tune 13psi but made it the car it should have been off the factory floor). 2.Front E-locker. A real confidence booster when getting off the beaten track in a solo vehicle. 3.Solar/ battery set up. It’s what keeps the separate fridge & freezer going 24/7 (without need for mains power or generator). These are the primary things which enable long periods between the need to restock.

Everything listed in my signature contributes to making our long term remote area tourer work as intended. A vehicle which will take us anywhere in Australia & ability to remain out bush for extended periods. We commonly go 4 weeks between needing to shop but 6 weeks is quite do-able. Makes a huge difference to how we can travel. Favourite mods were 1.the 3” exhaust +dyno +Redarc gauges in pillar pod. (Modest tune 13psi but made it the car it should have been off the factory floor). 2.Front E-locker. A real confidence booster when getting off the beaten track with no one else to provide support. 3.Solar/ battery set up. It’s what keeps the separate fridge & freezer going 24/7 (without need for mains power or generator). These are the primary things which enable long periods between the need to restock.

Although we never intended to tow, we have kept the Patrol as I originally set it up (with it’s own kitchen & space to carry an Oztent inside) as it remains a very useable tourer with or without the Tvan.

Front remote shocks
Free…. Came off a wrecked Ute

Gas injection
Free…. Was on the car when I bought it
Makes the diesel burn hotter and cleaner, gives the TD42 more power.


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By Far…….Decent Electric Winches [emoji1696][emoji106]
If anyone has ever wailed away on a Tirfor before, simply pressing a button on a suited electrical hauling system is pure Bliss [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]


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