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Does anyone have experience with this alternator from Patrolapart?
When travelling with the camper in tow I am charging a 900cca starter battery and a total of 450 ah of lifep04 in the Patrol and camper. I run 3 fridges, 2 50l Waecos in the Patrol and a 75l fridge freezer in the camper. I like lots of frozen food and cold beer!
Good timing - I was just looking at these this afternoon. I was winching (Runva) two weeks ago with high idle and it was noticeably slow, and sslower than my mates Carbon winch in his 200Series. I didn’t have a volt meter to hand but made me wonder whether it was that the alternator couldn’t keep up and there was a big voltage drop across the battery from the winch draw.
I had to replace mine last year and went with this one
https://www.baxters.com.au/alternato...rol-turbo.html
Pretty sure it’s exactly the same but was only $350-$400 off the top of my head.
Haven’t had any issues so far.
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There are quite a few variables here, but if you simply look at the battery as a bucket, the alternator as the tap filling the bucket and the winch draw as the hole, the 'flowrate from your tap is heaps smaller than your flowrate from the hole', ie 130amps in, 400amps out( or whatever you winch is pulling but it wont be 130amps unless its got no load). The water level in the bucket is depleted. You can alleviate this to some degree by larger battery capacity, ie size, to reduce the rate of fall from the bucket level, but ultimately, if you dont have an alternator matching the discharge rate, your battery voltage will fall, and the winch will slowdown. I run a 300amp alternator for the infrequent times I have need to use the rear Warn 15000lb winch, and have 400ah of 900cca battery in the back. The 15000 will pull up to 500a if pushed, but there is enough reserve to increase the point where the slowdown will ultimately happen. Hope this helps.
At what RPM do/can these actually achieve the 130A? That is a A LOT of juice.
I recently bought the Hitachi alternator from Patrolapart. My old one (original 16yo unit) began acting and sounding funny so I acted before it leaves me stranded.
After a cold start ,battery taking a hit from starter motor/glow plugs, I found the new unit pushing 50A-ish at around 2000rpm. As the revs go up from there, the results are diminishing.
Point being, unless you're winching/revving the up, is there much usable benefit in these high output units for just charging dual battery systems etc????
A more important thing I noticed when I changed over my alternator is the cable from the alternator to the battery is absolutely s#ithouse. Old, annealed. No way in hell the diameter of it can push 100A IMO. Especially with the age of these motors. You'll really want to look at upgrading this, especially if you're going high output route.
I got some proper cable and lugs ready to go in mine.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=83514&stc=1
The performance curves are hard to find for td42 specific alternators. Maybe a very good auto electrc company could get them.
Your observations are correct with the cable from the alternator @Hodge . If you can limit the voltage drop to high current devices then it goes a long way to keeping the maximum current pulled as low as possible. A 130A alternator is heaps for 99.9% of people's applications.
FWIW: 120A tops 130A I believe is the MAX a single 13A belt can safely drive too.
I managed to score a pimped up GQTD42 180A jobbie years ago for my 6.5 GU.
Initially it cooked the diodes under stress until @PeeBee kindly ordered me in an external rectifier pack from the States. That fixed the cooking issue no problem but unfortunately the next problem became belt slippage under heavy loads duress.
The Evil Twin Legend on here kindly posted up a graph somewhere years ago helping us which listed the required belt/s V & Serpentine variants required for higher output alternators [emoji106][emoji106]
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I sell some seriously heavy duty 13A belts at work Marko. The Gates Fleetrunner range are top notch. Phil and Eric can vouch for them.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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From the Legend Himself, We know and Love him as ‘ET’ [emoji106][emoji106]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/05/121.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/05/122.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/05/123.jpg
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It’s a slippage issue I’ve found Mr Mark Mate!Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Fleetrunner are the strength bomb for sure but surface area versus loading I believe now is the greater issue?
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FWIW #2:
Dating back say only 5 years ago we could all purchase GU & GQ 140A alternators readily available from major offroad retailers (stores) Australia wide.
It is my personal belief the reason they are not available now is due to diode and OEM belt issues as experienced above.
Baxters has the highest Amperage (off the shelf) for GU’s (130A) that I know of now and only a (100A) for GQ’s with the vaccy pumpy back on them.
Happy to be corrected, if so please, I’ll buy 10 of each [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
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Agree Mark, my experience with moving to the green fleetguard has been trouble free. The 6 micro rib belts supplied with the kit simply stretched after a couple of hours use and the auto tensioner was unable to keep them from squealing. I did have some very ordinary alignment issues that 'ol eagle eyes @MB picked up on, however the standard series belts still stretched. The only issue I have had with the fleetguard is the back cover surface is 'sticky' when i first start up, and it sounded like I had a 'clicking' bearing - took a while to diagnose as the belt 'popping off' the idler roller. A puff with some graphite powder fixed it instantly. I mention this only as an observation and remedy if someone else strikes it. The dimensional stability is great, but, I upgraded the drive from 6 to 8 rib after hearing about issues with the 6 rib stretching by other users with the s/c, and still find it pretty easy to get them to squeal as well with 8 rib, but thats more a driver issue than the belt. All my pulleys are steel, so good friction surface. If you run aluminium pulleys you may strike slippage though.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
You’re a Legend Philstar [emoji106][emoji106]
Glad you cleared that up in case we thought we could haul 300Ampy alternators off a 13A [emoji23][emoji123][emoji123]
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If you look at the Dayco chart from ET, 310a = 8 rib, so its on the money. I have run 200a off a single 13a, however it did chew thru belts. It was one of those 14V alternators with a converter pack to run as an arc welder and 240v power supply - made by uni power. As an alternator it rarely pulled over 100amps, but when welding it used the whole 200a and thats what shortened the belt life - drive surfaces were actually tacky from the slip that would take place and heaps of smoke after a couple of minutes loaded up. I don't know what they never ran then with 2A belt config. Anyway, it was moved on after a lot of frustration. There is simply nothing like reading the instructions as the selection charts are there for a reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
For sure Mate, this Forum is GOLD [emoji106][emoji106]
Many other factors too as you’ve always known but I’ve learnt thankfully on here is the percentage of drive pulley wrap around the circumferences to assist grip on modified setups. Also as Nissannewby kindly mentioned above the specific power curve of aftermarket alternators versus rpm speed needs can be hard to balance in my nuffy findings. A simple pulley size reduction for slower track rpm use can sometimes be needed to pep up alternator speeds too I think?
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Phil mate, please elaborate this a tad more... You have my attention! So you're saying the outer "green" skin of the belt sticks and clicks when cold or something?Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
As mentioned earlier in the thread. Slapped on a new Hitachi 100A Alternator unit not long ago. While at it I slapped on a set of the Green belts from @mudski ...
"Sometimes" in the morning at start-up there is a minor "ticking" noise with no consistent pattern, which fades minutes after idling from start ANd/or I give it few revs...
As the belts AND the Alt went on at the same time, I'm unsure where to begin looking, but now that you've mentioned this i'm intrigued!
Philstar is running a 26m long ‘Serpentine’ 8 rib belt on his 6.5L Supercharged Chevy GQ Hodgey Mate!
The back of the Serpy he found sticking to the idler pulleys which is different to your V belt OEM idler pulley stretching from the inner outwards [emoji106][emoji106]
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Thanks @MB, spot on. It took a workshop mechanic about 2 secs to identify the problem that I had been over thinking for weeks! Now I head straight down to this guy when I find a 'non amateur obvious issue', happy to hand the cash over, great expertise and knowledge, and frankly allows me to make better use of my limited time off roster as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Thanks for the explanation @MB and @PeeBee . I got excited there for a sec.
Will have to hunt the culprit some more then.
But on that note, how awesome are those belts. Compared to any others ive used in the past theyre leagues ahead. Just physically holding them in your hands you can tell the difference.
YES the Fleet runners are the go !