https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBTiYf-9Hys
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I have made a few 12mm soft shackles and spent many hours trawling YouTube looking for techniques. Most guys make them out of 6mm and 8mm for boating. I really struggled to find any decent vids ans certainly nothing relating to 12mm damn it. I had to do all the maths myself.
That vid is a Bloody Rippa Find! End of story! Great Vid.
The blind knot technique he uses is heaps easier than what I found for the same result.
Great Find! Thanks for posting that.
Next time I make one iwill use this Vid 100%
Love the knitting needle Fid too. Awesome Hack.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sobFjjh8Pbg
The big problem is the front recovery points on my Patrol have sharp corners. I did get one laser cut out of 20mm hardened steel, and am in the process of rounding off the corners.
I would like to send it away to be tested against one with sharp edges.
I can't fit it to my vehicle, because of the winch cradle.
You could put a steel shackle on the recovery point but on a double line pull the winch hook is at the car anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
That is correct, but adds another failure point, and takes away the whole point of the soft shackle.
@threedogs, John, where did you get your recovery points tested. And are you willing to send another point to them to get tested with soft shackles?
Not really. In a double line pull the soft shackle and Snatch Ring are at the turning point. If they fail they are coming at you. If the shackle under your car fails it is outward bound.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Dont know if it's just me, but a metal ring friction spinning through a synthetic soft shackle, inward bound if it fails, gives me the heeby jeebies. Why is this preferred over a rolling snatch block?Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
That last vid that Mudnut posted is worth watching mate. The 12mm soft shackle failed at +26Ton.. the Snatch Block has a proven efficiency of 1:1.8 and the Snatch ring is 1:1.7 ans the fiction is negligible i the scheme of things..Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
The considerations I would give are these.
1. If i was using a Snatch block I would probably stick with a steel shackle as per general concepts.
2. If i was going to use a snatch ring then a Soft Shackle is the only way to go.
A Snatch block has some sharper edges so I think a soft shackle is not ideal IMO.
Snatch block and Steel shackle OR snatch ring and Soft shackle.
Either way WINCH BLANKET RECOMMENDED.
Yeah definately agree with you mate, blanket up! I choose to run steel cable because I very very rarely need to winch. I'm happy to carry the extra weight for better UV, grit and general low use longevity and slipping through highly tensioned rope scares me more than pinging wire! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
I used cable for years, but the cable kinked when doing a job so when money became available I switched. Life is so much easier using dyneema.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
Yeah loose the wire brother. It is nasty stuff. Drive around with an empty drum 100% of the time. Keep your winch rope in the back. When you go driving just put it on. Good way to test your winch on the day of your drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
I made up a cover out of 2 ply conveyor belt - its a simple rectangle, with two cable tie loops onto the bull bar rail. It sits nice and neat out of harms way, protects the rope from UV and dirt etc, yet flips up in a second to reveal the rope wind pattern, very simple and cheap .
I reckon dymeema is one of the best if not the best inventions to hit the semi recent 4WD scene, so so so so much better than old cable. Light easy to handle easy (ish) to wash, easy to carry extension lengths and store blah blah . . . Pretty well proven by now too but if it does break a it's safer and b easy to get up and running again in the bush enough to get you out at least. .
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Hi Craig been out of the loop for ages now.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
I had my points tested at a certified cable and sling place
some were bolted to a plate of steel others were bolted to them selves
and stress applied by shackles on each end, they were scribed and pulled for 50 times at say 3.5ton
the scribe marks were measured and if there was no movement it was ok to use.
If it moved it was back to the old drawing board again
After a pass proof tested to 3.5t,I then did a destruction test to see when it would break.
I put a 18 ton plus limit,, under 18 t it was back to the drawing board again.
Be careful using hardened steel you might find it too brittle and also check
the "grain" is in the right direction.
Hope this helps
Also remember any recovery point is a throw away item , just like shackles, slings and
any other item you use for any recovery they all have a use by date.
NEVER USE A TOWBALL EVER FOR ANY VEHICLE RECOVERY IT WILL KILL