Clutch slipping after trip at glasshouse, new HD NPC clutch.

Hey guys just got my patrol back this week it was converted from a 3L to a TD42 Factory T Blacktop (2001 GU Manual) with a few goodies. One of those goodies is the HD NPC Clutch.
Today I was out at Glass House Mountains having a play, It wasn't my intention but I ended up slipping into a bog hole and I believe the box would have been mostly submerged for a good few minutes. After getting pulled out, I continued 4x4ing (away from bogholes) for probably 3 hours having a blast with no issues at all. It wasn't until going back to 2wd and jumping back onto the roads that I realized what feels to be the clutch slipping. It doesn't really slip in 1st but if you give it a bootfull in any other gear it just starts slipping, it catches back on pretty fast but obviously it's not right. The pedal is also feeling sticky now, it wasn't feeling sticky while I was out Just wanted to hear peoples thoughts and possibilities. Cheers

Stick a hose under the clutch fork boot and wash the clutch out. The sticky feeling is the thrust bearing carrier sticking on the nose cone of the gearbox due to the mud in there.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

Stick a hose under the clutch fork boot and wash the clutch out. The sticky feeling is the thrust bearing carrier sticking on the nose cone of the gearbox due to the mud in there.

---

Im assuming the clutch fork boot is going to be located somewhere near the bellhousing? I'll have a look in the morning mate thanks, should I pull the boot off or just try and wash it out as best as I can as it is

LHS mate where the clutch slave cylinder is. Im guessing this is where the mud got in too. Before you wash it out make sure there is a drain plug at the bottom to let all the crud out. If not. You might have to make one.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

LHS mate where the clutch slave cylinder is. Im guessing this is where the mud got in too. Before you wash it out make sure there is a drain plug at the bottom to let all the crud out. If not. You might have to make one.

---

I will have a look in the morning and update you with how I go

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

LHS mate where the clutch slave cylinder is. Im guessing this is where the mud got in too. Before you wash it out make sure there is a drain plug at the bottom to let all the crud out. If not. You might have to make one.

---

Hey mate just had a look and you're right it is full of mud. I can see gaps in the middle of the boot its almost like it's too big and it squishes in either side in the middle. I just pulled it out a bit and pulled a few chunks of sloppy mud out.
Would it be safe to just put the hose into the boot and have it all come running out the other side where the gap is ? or i could just leave it hanging out and put the hose up in there

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jdugg27

Hey mate just had a look and you're right it is full of mud. I can see gaps in the middle of the boot its almost like it's too big and it squishes in either side in the middle. I just pulled it out a bit and pulled a few chunks of sloppy mud out.
Would it be safe to just put the hose into the boot and have it all come running out the other side where the gap is ? or i could just leave it hanging out and put the hose up in there

---

Wheres the gap on the other side you mention? The only hole in the bell housing should only be where the clutch fork is.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[QUOTE=mudski;810499]Wheres the gap on the other side you mention? The only hole in the bell housing should only be where the clutch fork is.

The gap is on the clutch fork boot, the rubber has a gap in the middle which allowed mud in. After washing it out i didnt have drive for a few minutes let is sit and went again and now shes going mint

Is the water and mud able to drain out?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah they will never seal water out (being submerged anyway) the way they are from factory. Good idea to silcone the fork boot both ends (bell housing & where the fork goes) and also silicone in the bung on the bottom of the bellhousing. If you remember it's good measure to pull out bung every service or so to check rear main isn't leaking and no water has got in.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rossco

Yeah they will never seal water out (being submerged anyway) the way they are from factory. Good idea to silcone the fork boot both ends (bell housing & where the fork goes) and also silicone in the bung on the bottom of the bellhousing. If you remember it's good measure to pull out bung every service or so to check rear main isn't leaking and no water has got in.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

---

Yeah mines all sealed up with a breather hose in the bell housing. My GU doesn’t have a drain hole too. I think only the GQs had them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

Is the water and mud able to drain out?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Yeah it was coming out a few spots. After it sat for the afterrnoon i took it for a drive just before and it was slipping again at high torque so I washed it out again and had mum pumping the clutch pedal. Now shes driving good again but sounds horrendous just making an awful scretching sound haha. It looks like the drivetrains leaking too and spitting shit everywhere is that possibly related or surely it's to do with the clutch after washing water through there

IF, everything is bolts up right and tight. You should not see anything leak out. The only entrance point on the bell housing for mud and water to get in is via the clutch fork boot.
The earlier Patrols had a drain plug in the bell housing, mine, a 2001, doesn't. So yours shouldn't too. Great idea in my opinion to have a drain plug. My suggestion to you is to continue washing out the clutch area until you only see clear water coming out. Then seal up the housing area properly.
I know mud is fun but its costly. My last bog hole adventure cost around 2K. Killed the clutch, a/c pump, alternator, destroyed brand new brakepads and rotors. I just drive around big bogholes now.

100% Agree with Mudski Mate!
Bog holes wherever possible (not always) will personally take the Chicken Less Old Fart Hero Track :-)
Forward/Reverse...Up/Down gear changes will surely let that crud in between our clutch plate and fly wheel on ageing vehicles boots.
Reminds me of a shiithouse 350 Chev <> FJ45 Landcrab adaptor plate had many years ago that had a forward facing starter motor extended hole, one gear change later deep and all drive was over, tow to the nearest farmers hose and away again...repeat :-)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

IF, everything is bolts up right and tight. You should not see anything leak out. The only entrance point on the bell housing for mud and water to get in is via the clutch fork boot.
The earlier Patrols had a drain plug in the bell housing, mine, a 2001, doesn't. So yours shouldn't too. Great idea in my opinion to have a drain plug. My suggestion to you is to continue washing out the clutch area until you only see clear water coming out. Then seal up the housing area properly.
I know mud is fun but its costly. My last bog hole adventure cost around 2K. Killed the clutch, a/c pump, alternator, destroyed brand new brakepads and rotors. I just drive around big bogholes now.

---

There looked to be a little breather hole it was spraying out I couldn't really see where else because after I jammed it in there I got as far away as I could and just held the pressure of the hose up there haha. Feels bad just spent 25k on getting the thing converted and freshened up. The intention was not to go in the bog hole but i slipped in and stupidly commited. Yeah brakes seem to be pretty cooked now too and they're brand new also. I'll defiantly be steering clear from now on but shouldn't have done it in the first place guess I'll be paying for all the damage I've done with the next few paychecks! :1087:

If I go wash it a third time, should I be spraying some sort of lubricant or oil up into the boot? The sounds its making is horrible and you can hear it a mile away, I can only assume it's the clutch but have a funny feeling it might have something to do with the drivetrain because you can see where it's spat everything and the noise sounds very revolving like wheels or something even.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jdugg27

If I go wash it a third time, should I be spraying some sort of lubricant or oil up into the boot? The sounds its making is horrible and you can hear it a mile away, I can only assume it's the clutch but have a funny feeling it might have something to do with the drivetrain because you can see where it's spat everything and the noise sounds very revolving like wheels or something even.

---

Definitely do NOT spray any lubricant in there. You will most likely destroy the clutch. The sound you are hearing is the clutch thrust bearing which is probably as dry as a witches tit, and screaming its head off and will surely see a premature death. Ideally, drop the box and clean it out properly. and put a new thrust bearing and carrier in. Or just drive it and hope it well sort itself.

Lessen learned here. Make sure the bell housing is all sealed up, and drive around bog holes. Good luck.

Reminds me again...Dickhead MB Days :-)
Saved up 50/50 deal with my Old Man to work weekends for neighbours cash and home chores to purchase an old 1970’s Honda XR75 dirt bike [emoji106]
12 months we made the sweet $360 combined target yet drum brakes were a bit squeaky for my nuffy likings on first ride!
Had seen Dad put oil in his Valiant engine before so decided to pull my new bikes wheels off and fill the drums full of oil and reassembled :-)
Did not end well, should explain most of my posts here :-)




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bet the brakes stopped squeaking at least [emoji6] . . .

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

This the small gap in the boot I was talking about
Attachment 82232

This is the small hole where the water was spraying out of when I was hosing into the boot. Also not sure why the bolts were put on before the gasket? This is the bottom of the bellhousing is that an issue?
Attachment 82233

I'm no mechanic and have no idea what the next two parts are, it's pretty much the tail shaft or where the driveline connects up to the back of the transmission. But you can see it's been leaking/spitting shit everywhere is this an issue and possibly related to the revolving squealing sound I have? It stopped all day but as I was driving home before start screeching again and as I go faster the revolving sound does also, it's at it's worst when I'm in second using the engine brake it really sounds horrendous.
Attachment 82234
Attachment 82235
Or is that horrible sound just likely the clutch throwout bearing or whatever it is?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jdugg27

This the small gap in the boot I was talking about
Attachment 82232

This is the small hole where the water was spraying out of when I was hosing into the boot. Also not sure why the bolts were put on before the gasket? This is the bottom of the bellhousing is that an issue?
Attachment 82233

---

WTF? Who put that gearbox in? No wonder you got mud in!!!!!!!
That’s really poor mate. Both on the boot and sandwich plate.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The noises you are hearing is a dry and dirty thrust bearing. It will surely see an early death. There’s no easy way out of this I think. You either keep driving it or drop the box out and replace the thrust bearing and carrier before it explodes and takes out the clutch with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

The noises you are hearing is a dry and dirty thrust bearing. It will surely see an early death. There’s no easy way out of this I think. You either keep driving it or drop the box out and replace the thrust bearing and carrier before it explodes and takes out the clutch with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

I bought the car as a rolling shell but had the drive in drive out conversion done, but i guess the transmission was already in there. This is my pride and joy as well as my daily driver. If I keep driving it and it continues am I going to be risking more damage? Is my safest bet to get it booked in to get the box dropped and cleaned out & bearing changed?

Also the sound doesn't just happen when I depress the clutch. It happens when I'm just rolling or accel/decel too just harder to hear obviously

If it were me. Keep hosing it out until its clean water. Then take it from there. Theres a chance you have damaged the clutch plate friction pads and also maybe the pressure plate facing where it meets the clutch plate. You wont know until its removed.

If you go down the gearbox removal path, get whoever is doing the job to seal up the entire housing, including the rubber boot.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

If it were me. Keep hosing it out until its clean water. Then take it from there. Theres a chance you have damaged the clutch plate friction pads and also maybe the pressure plate facing where it meets the clutch plate. You wont know until its removed.

If you go down the gearbox removal path, get whoever is doing the job to seal up the entire housing, including the rubber boot.

---

Took the boot out and had the hose up there for a good 20-30 minutes and plently of depressing and releasing the clutch too. Sounds the worst it has been now to the point i almost dont even wanna drive it sounds horrendous lol. I guess ill go for another drive but looks like shes going to be getting the box dropped

Think that is the best idea at least you know it'll be fixed right and be realiable, last thing you want is having it shit itself in the middle of nowhere. Whoever did the conversion did a pretty shoddy job putting the motor in that sandwich plate is definatly not ide. At least you know now thoroughly seal the bugger before playing in bogholes lol. .

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rossco

Think that is the best idea at least you know it'll be fixed right and be realiable, last thing you want is having it shit itself in the middle of nowhere. Whoever did the conversion did a pretty shoddy job putting the motor in that sandwich plate is definatly not ide. At least you know now thoroughly seal the bugger before playing in bogholes lol. .

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

---

Thats right lol, hoping to get it booked in for next Monday when im off work again