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Hi All
Just found that my drivers side rear spring tower is cracked, and pushing against the rear brake lines. Gonna weld it and brace up the crack without removing the body, but i realy wonna know if i can fit a tower brace without takimg tho body off.
GU Wagon.
please help. pics if can or who has done it, howd you brace the crack, anything to help.
I'm unsure why you'd need to remove the body . These are fitted from underneath. Jack car up, springs out , direct bolt in. Drivers side a bit fiddly due to brake lines ... Took me half a day personally and I'm no mechanic.
https://patrolapart.com.au/product/n...ower-brace-kit
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wow iv never seen those braces before. thanks
Yeah you can fit without removing body. I did mine whilst doing a cab swap and was much easier but only did it then whilst it was a perfect opportunity. Just gotta watch the bump stop bolts I snapped one and it's pretty common, give it a good soak first and go easy. . What kit are you fitting?
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Edit: I went the Boss kit also and are very good. .
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the kit i was thinking of needs a 2" body lift, the one for utes aswell. the boss kits seem a bit thin, anybody realy put them to the test? i had a look at the super engi kits that have braces to the round tube?
i see that you can buy a new weld in tower, stock nissan part. anybody fitted one? the weld on the top if the chassis looks a bit tricky to cut off
Nah use the Boss Kit mate. It is basically an Insert to the factory mount and is perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudboss
I also tore the drovers side and fitted rhe Boss Kit post tear.
Pro Tip. The drivers side is a Mofo to bend back. Once bent back you then weld it up and then fit the boss kit. To bend the tower back I used a 6ft crow bar from the passenger side. I cant remember what I levered off but it will make sense when you start. On passenger side of car I put a car jack under the crow bar end and jacked up, the other end was on top of the spring tower, think see-saw. It was very easy to lever down and hold this way and then weld.
The top bolts around the fuel lines are a Mofo.
Another vote for the Boss kit.
Hmm, doesn't chassis welding repair require inspection?
I'd like to reiterate this again. From memory I spent 4-5 hours fitting the kit. I dare say good 2-3 hours of that time was spent fiddling with the brake / fuel lines section above the chassis.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
I invented some good swear words that morning because of this.
I'm happy with the Boss kit, I didn't have any issues installing mine. After being warned what a pain they are to install I did the drivers side first, was surprised that the passenger side went so smoothly. Make sure to thoroughly clean all around the area before starting, you might be lucky as well.
This does remind me to check the brake line clearance as I've done at least 20,000k since installing them.
Thanks everyone. This group is a world of information, Id buy everyone a beer. Again Thank You
About to purchase the boss kit so i can have a templte to work to when bending the tower back. I Kinda think that its because i didnt extend my bump stops enouph when i did the lift. So im going to use the bump stop addapters to run the 80 series bump stops. Will hold off for a day or so, will start a new thread and ask if anyone has done it or a different way ?
It has a 4" lift all engineered in SA, I was told how to calculate full spring compression but never got round to it.
Yeh im going to ask my engineer about the welding chassis thing. Iv spent enough to get it legal in so i might as well do it properly.
I resealed the timing cover and backing plate on my TD42ti about 6 months ago so its happened since then.
Thinking back it must of been bent for a while. Iv got 30mm coil spacers in the right side and 15mm in left to account for the patrol droop. Ever since putting the spacers in Iv never been happy with the way the spring sits in the right hand tower.
Attachment 82199
my spring tower
That's a fair dinkum tear mate.
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