Deisel Smart EGR Delete

Ok guys, I am on holidays and spending lots of money on the trol (more than I have had in alot of years). I am looking at getting an IC from ARE if they have one in stock (mine is leaking like a sieve underneath). But my question is, what are peoples thoughts on the Diesel Smart EGR Delete? https://www.dieselsmart.shop/product...psi-egr-delete I do not want to have to clear codes, but I want a complete delete. I can't see that drilling a hole in the egr block is a complete delete as it is still letting oil through. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

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Originally Posted by Dhuck

Ok guys, I am on holidays and spending lots of money on the trol (more than I have had in alot of years). I am looking at getting an IC from ARE if they have one in stock (mine is leaking like a sieve underneath). But my question is, what are peoples thoughts on the Diesel Smart EGR Delete? https://www.dieselsmart.shop/product...psi-egr-delete I do not want to have to clear codes, but I want a complete delete. I can't see that drilling a hole in the egr block is a complete delete as it is still letting oil through. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

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'"100 degrees cooler egts guaranteed" yeah righto

I blocked my EGR on my CRD but never saw an improvement like that

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

if you do go ahead with this id be interested in your verdict because on paper it looks like a good mod.

Good idea to install an Exhaust Gas Temp Gauge before to see what's going on, and if there is any change after the install.
I'm interested to see what happens here.

That mod is a good idea in my opinion. Better than blocking the EGR and getting fault codes. I think @threedogs runs the same mod in his 03 Di Patrol.

I'm skeptical about plug-in things.

But I support experiments :)

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Originally Posted by pollenface

I'm skeptical about plug-in things.

But I support experiments :)

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I do too. But I don't want to do the experiment. I was hoping someone already has.

if you get the computer re flashed , they turn the egr off as well as the swirl valve and throttle valve restrictions as well as getting more power and tourque .

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Originally Posted by nipagu7

if you get the computer re flashed , they turn the egr off as well as the swirl valve and throttle valve restrictions as well as getting more power and tourque .

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Can you give me any reputable tuner names in SEQ since your only an hour and a half away.

@Dhuck I agree with @nipagu7 the best option upfront is to get a ECU remap which if done well will turn the EGR fuction off and technically it is not then required to physically use the EGR blanking plate but I would recommend to block off EGR assy at both ends. I have remap + EGR assy blocked both ends. Reason for both ends, at the exhaust manifold is to stop unnecessary turbulence at manifold end to reduce lag and if EGR pipe splits it does not pose a problem that require repair as is not part of the sys function anymore and at the inlet manifold end as the CRD has a EGR cooler jacket surrounding the EGR assy and if perforation/leak occurrs, plate will prevent ingress of coolant into inlet . Blocking is recommended for remap or the Diesel Smart solution.

Diesel smart solution is a resistor module that modifies the MAF signal to ECU to supposedly turns off MIL function, there is also a resistor that can be placed in series with the pink wire on the CRD MAF wire at sensor plug if no ECU remap. Understand works well.

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Extract from Patrol 4x4 forum.
Disabling EGR so you don't get the MIL code after blocking it on CRD is dead simple.
Here's Mal's DIY

1x 6.2K ohm resistor part RR0591 from jaycar.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/6-2k-ohm-0...-of-8/p/RR0591

Unplug MAF connector .
Push back the insulation .
Cut the pink wire.
Solder in resistor.
Heat shrink over resistor.
Pull the insulation back over loom.
Plug connector back in.

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Diesel Smart Torque Master Actuator Kit 20 or 16 psi is a positive pressure actuator but will keep vanes closed until max boost of 20 or 16psi is reached (spring selection based on use of ECU remap or stock ECU respectively). Positive pressure actuator work along the line of a wastegate.
Have a positive pressure actuator (deisel smart with 23psi spring to suit h/f tuirbo fittted). I prefer VNT boost control and use manual boost control (either Dawes or Tillix boost controller "used both" with needle valve for spool rate adjustment. If you do manual boost control, I have been working on additional needle valves for control to provide lower cruise boost and improve airflow low down_another story but can speak.

A chap I have had discussions with (over last 2 yrs) for CRD ECU remap/live tune is Evolution Tuning Glasshouse mountains_Chris Chapman. He is on Facebook and be worth talking to could contact him to get a phone number or contact thru FB. Getting good results.

https://www.facebook.com/search/top?...ution%20tuning

Induction modification /upgrade is important they like to breath well.

You will not drop EGTs 100° by using a positive pressure actuator alone.

I have done quite a few mods / and change along the way but need to understand more of what you really want to achieve.

Note: Must have gauges at least EGT, Boost, and scan tool for codes.

Thanks for that info @Bidja. Will look him up and have a chat.

Do you have any gauges installed as good to monitor changes as mods come into play.

Is eng stock, any mods to date?

In addition to blocking EGR, as mentioned you can disable the swirl valve (2nd throttle plate/butterfly) _is located driver side of engine towards firewall . To disable the swirl control solenoid, unplug it and insert the resistor in plug and tape up/zip tie back away (typical pic).
I prefer to do this by unplugging and do the swirl valve plug resistor mod (330ohm) than turn off with ECU remap (keep options open). Jaycar sell a 2 pack of resistors. 330ohm 1 watt resistor. Jaycar part number RR2762.

When swirl valve is disabled swirl throttle plate (butterfly) stays open all the time and provides for more air at low revs and provides for improve performance low down. Swirl valve not required with EGR disabled.

Second resistor in the Jaycar pack can be used in the plug of VNT vac solenoid, if you want to remove the VNT vacsol when using Tillix/Dawes manual boost control. CRD require vacsol to be electrically connected (as I do). . Alternatively you can perform the resistor mod that prevents ECU throwing error code. After bending the resistor as pictured. Unplug the Boost control Solenoid and plug the resistor into the plug in its place. Tape it up and you are done.


Good to hear about comments you get from Chris.

No mods yet @Bidja. Still absolutely stock. Waiting on pillar pod, gauges, exhaust, CC and IC. Wanted to do this over the school holidays as I was meant to be going on a cruise that did not happen. But stock is low and awaiting postage. Gotta love the stock availability and logistics atm.

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Originally Posted by Dhuck

No mods yet @Bidja. Still absolutely stock. Waiting on pillar pod, gauges, exhaust, CC and IC. Wanted to do this over the school holidays as I was meant to be going on a cruise that did not happen. But stock is low and awaiting postage. Gotta love the stock availability and logistics atm.

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Stock is good to work with but can be costly and time consuming sorting the wheat from the chaff. Had to learn as I went (never stop I guess).

IMO opinion hold off on ECU remap for a while, install your pillar pod, gauges, exhaust, CC and IC and get your manual boost control happening. Dawes (3barracing) and Tillix are both good but Tillix is my choice these days(slight differences).

Best to block EGR pipe at exhaust manifold when fitting new exhaust (3")? and fit EGT probe then heat shield back on _ job done (wrap dump pipe turbo back down to reduce heat to clutch slave cyl). EGR plate at inlet manifold as well. Not here to teach you how to suck eggs just ask.

You will need a scan tool for real time monitoring and clearing codes etc. Check this out: Ultra Gauge EM Plus_USA 149AUD posted. I primarily use it for monitoring ECT, Boost "relative"(drop across cooler _hot/cold side port with gauge psi), MAP/MAF, rwkw, calculated N-m against engine load (displayed)
http://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ultragauge_wired.htm.

Yes as said, they like to breath easy (air intake /airbox / to turbo ) _ will allow improved air flow and help to achieve improved boost levels. Manual boost control both Dawes or Tillix run higher cruise boost and will rise rapidly with slight eng load applied, spool rate can reduce this but can become laggy and produce higher EGTs. I have been trialing a Tillix + 3 needle valve (improved control of VNT vanes opening) with v.good results (lower boost with higher MAF rate providing acceptable EGTs improved driveabilty (pic of now). Consider installing a conventional manual boost control first eg: Tilix + 1 needle valve to get familiar.

Note: I had a significant gains in eng performance from introducing, 3" exhaust, EGR block, TIG welded cooler, stock ECU with conventional manual boost control, @ max boost 16.5 psi hauling (good place to start).

Thanks @Bidja. Was the way me and the missus were working. I am glad I am on the same page. Was wondering though about the exhaust end egr delete and if someone sells these.

Will look up purchase detail on pc and let u know . It has 3 stud holes exhaust plate and 2 holes or slots for inlet side

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Originally Posted by Dhuck

Thanks @Bidja. Was the way me and the missus were working. I am glad I am on the same page. Was wondering though about the exhaust end egr delete and if someone sells these.

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The one I bought for exhaust end (3 holes) is no longer available. This one would be fine:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EGR-Blan....c100005.m1851


One for inlet side will come with Tillix kit:
https://www.tillix.com.au/product/bo...ickup-adaptor/

I bought plate (2 hole) separately as original controller was Dawes (no plate supplied):
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141972175409

Note: Best if you can keep your boost reference (source) port for Tillix and gauge separate, than using a common T piece in boost line. Cooler may come with additional ports. Tillix may supply 2xbarb fittings from adaptor as this would be fine. They are available from other suppliers. Can buy individual Tillix components and buy adaptor else where.

something about this doesn't look stock.. cant put my finger on it though

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Originally Posted by Fireblade

something about this doesn't look stock.. cant put my finger on it though

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more valves like thumbs as well_just need to decide which way to install and turn. Get VNT vanes to open more gradually low down for more air after initial turbine spin up (higher MAF lower MAP).

I am guessing...

The resistor (or Turbo smart module) changes the signal sent to the ECU to trick it into thinking the incoming air temp is hotter which must be above the threshold for the EGR valve to open. So while thinking the air is hotter and less dense, it allows more air/oxygen to enter the combustion process which in effect lowers the outgoing exhaust gas temps. That is how you're able to fully blank the EGR without getting an error code (or overboost) as the ECU continues to operate within OEM specs.

Out of curiosity, I wonder what the threshold temp for the EGR is...