Engine angle help!

So been planning an RB swap into my GR and it is now bolted up to the trans.

However i did not in hindsight measure the angle of the engine - fail.

With the vehicle on level ground / main chassis rails reading level, does anyone now the angle of the engine measured from the flat face of the sump/engine block?

Or failing that roughly how far the lowest part of the transfer case hangs below the chassis rails, I'm currently at 10mm.

Point of note my GR is an RD28 with 5 speed manual trans.

Thankyou sooooo much in advance anyone! Looking to fab the engine mounts tomorrow! :D

Oh I'm meaning front to back angle / viewed from the side 👍

Or even easier I suppose, could someone measure the distance from the centre of the crank pulley upto the top of the slam panel?

One of the issues when swapping an engine for a non standard one is the angle of the tailshaft. It should be as flat as possible - otherwise you will wear out the universal joints very quickly. Before you weld the new mounts into place run a strait edge or string line along the tailshaft from gearbox to diff.

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Originally Posted by DG370

Or even easier I suppose, could someone measure the distance from the centre of the crank pulley upto the top of the slam panel?

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I think your going to struggle with this. No GR's came out in OZ with the RB. Nor have I heard of anyone doing it. Little motor in a big fat and heavy vehicle is not ideal.

As mudski and Bill suggested, check the angle at the tail shaft and also where the fan sits inside the radiator shroud. I thought the RD and RB have the basic same design, except the RD block is heavier and the oil galleries are slightly off.

I had it a project in mind for the future, and that is to buy a GU with the RD28, and reconfigure the block to petrol, fit a twin cam head and run the turbo on it.

Is it the original gearbox? Did you try transferring the original engine mounts to see if they fit?

You need to set it to match the factory pinion angle as it would be parallel with the crankshaft plane. So about 4 degrees

Hi guys, been a while, thanks to Covid and life in general but the project has been moving on albeit slowly. I hope you guys have all been well.

The engine is now mounted on custom engine brackets that utilise the RD28 rubber engine mountings, i took your guys advice, set the driveline parallel with the pinion, the prop looks great angles wise.
Its amazing how much smaller the RB looks than the RD, it is a little smaller and without the RD intercooler on top it looks diminutive!

Planning ahead now i have some other driveline questions.
As this will be 70% road 30% off road at most im looking to make the Patrol AWD with centre diff lock, as opposed to 4WD or RWD only.
With this in mind does anyone have any experience with the RD28 5spd manual trans, i'm led to believe it is the same as an R33 Skyline?
If it is im looking at fitting up the R33 Atessa AWD transfer setup along with a controller.

Once again any input greatly appreciated!

@mudnut i found the original mounting brackets do not marry up with the RB block.

That conversion might be a step backwards. Check the ratios in the AWD as you will find the first gear in the FS5R30A very 'Tall". It takes nearly 3000 RPM to get any kind of compression braking effect with the RD/RB standard configuration.

Personally, I really want to fit reduction gears in the transfer case.

Also take into account the weight of a Patrol, and the fact the Nissan driveline is very strong. You will have to find a way to match the speed sensor with the gauge, too.

Hi, thanks for the info, im looking to keep the RD FS5R30A as the ratios are great, but fit the Atessa transfer to it if possible?