Hi all.
Bought new drivers door striker as my rubber covering was worn. Cannot get the bolts out. Have soaked them in Rostoff and used impact driver. No luck.
Any ideas? Top bolt has some yellow paint mark on it. Unsure what that is for.
Cheers
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Hi all.
Bought new drivers door striker as my rubber covering was worn. Cannot get the bolts out. Have soaked them in Rostoff and used impact driver. No luck.
Any ideas? Top bolt has some yellow paint mark on it. Unsure what that is for.
Cheers
i used a screw driver from 4wd super center like the one bellow
i pushed in so the tool wouldn't slip while also using a spanner on the end to get alot more force to turn it.
this method has served me well for many cars not just patrols
Attachment 81543
Older screwdrivers accept a ring spanner alsoAttachment 81544
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Try giving the screwdriver a good wack first quite often does the trick. . They can be a bugger those stricker plate ones. .
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Use an impact screwdriver, the one with the hardened bits and you strike with a hammer - works very reliably
OK, missed that. Think your approach is right since the impact unit didn't work
I'd try welding a nut on if nothing else works, never had much luck with easy outs on things that are stuck firm. . Most wrongly named product ever lol
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Thanks all. Yes after trying a regular Phillips head I dragged out the impact driver (the one you bAsh with a hammer)
I’ve stripped the screw heads. I’ll try a bigger hammer but failing that yes I’ll try welding (but don’t want to bugger my paint)
Otherwise grind them off
Yeah “Easy out” LOL I love that name.
A quick zap with a mig shouldn’t put enough heat into the area to wreck the paint.
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A lot of impact drivers come with a No 2 phillips head bit. What you want for that sized screw is a No 3 bit. Unless it is really flogged out the correct bit should still do the job.
Also, did you make sure the impact driver was locked in the correct direction before hitting it with a hammer? You have to pre set them to go either left or right. Also, you should turn the impact driver slightly in the direction you want the screw to turn to give the driver a bit of preload, and then give it a hit with the hammer. I have used mine dozens (if not hundreds) of times - especially when working on motorbikes - and have never had an issue, even with the most stubborn of screws.
Thanks Bill and co. Yes I’m sure it’s going the right way. I’ll have to try the mig option as I’ve buggered the screws now.
Good source for new ones?
Possible idea here Njrqs Mate?
Try a solid 10mm -ish punch/real smack ( no greater than the size of your pan bolt head) to shake up the OEM paint and years of great service.
Truly just did this the day before last on an old Louisville twuck swapping sides as they no longer make em :-(
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been using a punch to turn bolts/screws sorta like the old cold chisel trick for nuts. i also have a removal kit that u drill a hole hammer a bar in then slide a nut onto the bar, works unlike easyouts.. but i must say the punch trick works better than the extractors i've tried.
Thanks again all. It's in the "TFH basket" for now !!
Oh and here is the photo someone asked for.
I would drill the screw out, diameter no bigger than the root diameter of the screw, maybe a hair less, then it will simply fall out - guaranteed.
use an angle grinder or dremmel and cut a flat slot in it. then use a flat screw driver to try turn it out
the heat from the grinder might help to.
not saying it will work but that method has worked for me in the past in some situations
Go to a panel beater. He would get it off in seconds and would probably do it for only a few dollars.
Alls not lost Im thinking after looking at those screw heads
you need the right size phillips head. First "shock" the bolts.
I think youre going a bit light trying to get them out, give those
screw heads a decent Whack with a hammer, give it heaps of CRC
or similar.
Ive never had a problem working on motor bike with an impact tool.
Keep us posted, if closer would be happy to help But.......................
I did mine (whole car for repaint) by pulling the "B" Pillar interior trim off, and spray WD on the bolt threads "inside" that protrude into the cavity, (they get surface rust on the exposed thread, so keep soaking), then, periodically over a few days, give the whole thing a firm hit with a nylon hammer (or steel hammer and bit or wood) toward the body in the same direction the bolts are pulling, then i still think the impact driver with the right size bit ,and a bit of grinding paste on the tip is worth a try.