hi, I'm Reggie, I got a zd30 common rail 2007 overheating, changed radiator and thermostat, no luck, passed Teekay test and leak down test, what else could it be?
anyone got scantool to check ECU and its outputs in Brisbane??? I'm stumped
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hi, I'm Reggie, I got a zd30 common rail 2007 overheating, changed radiator and thermostat, no luck, passed Teekay test and leak down test, what else could it be?
anyone got scantool to check ECU and its outputs in Brisbane??? I'm stumped
have you checked your maf sensor , if it is dirty it may cause the engine to over fuel and run hot .
Are the fan belts tight, the shrouds in place and the fan only spins 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn when flicked by hand?
mudnut sound like he's onto it, i was going to suggest the same
Hi Reggie,
Have you flushed out the block?
I do know of a batch of 2007 models where the radiators sludged up due to left over casting sand / contaminants in the block ... the symptoms being temperature would be normal around town, but get up to highway speed and they would start to overheat. In all these cases, the radiators were around 1/3 blocked up with sludge, and had to be rodded out to clean - normally doing this fixed most problems.
I know you said you have changed out the radiator, but if this is the case with yours, you might want to flush out the block too.
^^^^^ That or viscous fan hub no working anymore.
nipagu7 where is the maf sensor? anyone on Brisbane southside can help? can pay $$
viscous fan providing plenty of resistance when I try to spin it, spinning 1/4 at best
happygu flush out the block? what do you mean flush out the block? before radiator change, it was only getting hot on highway, now radiator and thermostat changed, it gets hot everywhere, usually after around 15 minutes of driving, but often drops back to halfway after about 30 seconds to a minute, then goes up again randomly, sometimes not for a while though.
is there any recall on this faulty batch of 2007s?
Resistance when hot or cold? Get the car at running temp and see if the fan is locking up. A good way, albeit a tad dangerous is to try and stop the fan from spinning when its at temp. Usually a good thick welding glove does the trick for finger protection. just make sure the blades are spinning away from you when you try to stop it. If you can stop it when its hot, the hub is fubar.
Hahaha if you cant stop it youre fubar :) :) :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Check you dont have a collapsed radiator hose. Additionally, I know its hard to check without removal, but your water pump impeller may be corroded or even non existent if the coolant concentrations have been off the mark or its simp,y done a lot of kilometers. I would use a rolled up newspaper to check the fan, just a bit less risk.
Seriously is it REALLY getting hot or are you going by the gauge? Temp sensor Fukked up?Quote:
Originally Posted by ReggieRay
Yeah I was thinking that maybe too. Dodgy temp sender...Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickhead
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An airlock can cause overheating.
Have you burped the air out of the system. Park the vehicle with the nose slightly up hill. When the engine is cool, take off the radiator cap and tape a half 1.25 l plastic soft drink bottle to the radiator neck. Take the overflow hose off at the overflow bottle and tape it up to the bottle, or block it so water doesn't flow out.
Turn the car on and run it until all the air comes out the neck. Squeeze the hoses to help move any air. On my petrol engine there is an air bleeding screw near the thermostat. I don't know if the ZD has one or not.
Welcome to the forum mate.
thanks.. yes definitely getting hot, crimps on the new radiator getting push outwards.. will try putting a roll of newspaper in the fan tomorrow, resisting at cold temp.. anyone in brisbane can help diagnose? can buy you a slab if we make a breakthrough lol located southside.. want to try this air removal trick.. how can I block the overflow hose? tape it up to the bottle? what do you mean?
when it gets too hot, radiator is vibrating a little and some gushing water noises coming from inside the rad..
The gushing sound is probably steam. Are you sure the radiator is not blocked?
You don't need to burp the cooling system on those Craig. They are a self burping system in a nut shell.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
how can I tell if it's blocked?? it's a new radiator..
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Good to know. Thanks, Mark.
Sounds like a lot of people adding suggestions,
I’ll try add what others haven’t.
Does the top radiator hose and bottom radiator hose feel the same? In two ways when it’s hot/running temp are both hoses feeling the same temperature or is one really hot and the other cold? They should be same when running at operating temperature. If they they are feeling a lot different then that indicated the cooling system isn’t circulating coolant can be a few reasons then like thermostat stuck (I know you fitted new one but I’ve seen new parts out of a box be faulty) or blocked radiator.
Also when squishing the hoses you should feel if there is water inside or air, if the don’t feel the same when squeezed then it could be air and that would explain the heating..
Can’t remember if someone already said to check drive belt, that obviously runs water pump and if the hydraulic tensioner is failing then the belt might not be spinning the water pump enough.
I’ll wait to head how you go with those hose hope the resolute start pointing you in a direction for diagnosing
Sorry missed that point. I was focused on the gurgling response.Quote:
Originally Posted by ReggieRay
Did you test the thermostat before fitting it. I have had a brand new one fail on me once.
if you dont know where the maf sensor is it would be a fair bet that it might need a clean . it it the electrical sensor just after the air box and before the turbo . you will need a torx bit to remove it and some maf cleaner spray (both can be got at supercheap ) . just pay attention when pulling the sensor out to make sure you put it back the same way . i clean mine every time i change the oil at 5000ks , if i leave it for 10000ks i can really tell the difference with the car going noticeably better .
Most common causes of overheating ZD30's
Viscous Clutch (probably 50% of all issues IMHO are a bad hub)
Bottom of Rad Core ratshit (can't be that in this case)
Thermostat (again been changed)
Pump/Hoses
I would check the viscous clutch and at the same time the fan blades at the hub. The blade mouldings crack at the hub and if there are any signs of cracks I would replace the fan and the clutch.
Never heard of a MAF sensor causing chronic overheating but it might I spose however I would think the Car would run like an absolute dog if the MAF was that bad.
Like Mudski suggested... rule out a bad hub before going much further
top radiator hose and bottom radiator hose feel the same.. can't tell when I squeeze them if there's water or air.. drive belt looks OK? hydraulic tensioner??? huh?
new thermostat is genuine Nissan..
stuck wad of newspaper in fan while running at temp.. was completely undeterred by my efforts to stop it.. just kept going..
anyone in Brisbane can help check the maf sensor please? 🙏🙏🙏
i suggestted cleaning the maf sensor as i believe it is a easy, quick and cheap starting point to working thu the problem , especially if you dont have a catch can.it also should be done regularly. there is a post called CHECKING AND CLEANING MAF SENSORS that you could look thru and if you search PATROL MAF SENSOR on youtube you will find a heap of youseful videos . do make sure that you burp the coolant system properly . you need to warm the car up first to get the thermostat to open, then hold the revs over 2000 rpm for about 10 seconds . i had to do this about 4 times ( hold the revs up , not warm the car up ) . you will see more air come into the pressureised coolant bottle . let the car cool down then top the pressureised bottle up . over the next few days i topped the non pressureised overflow bottle up a couple of times as well.
I would still check to see if it worked properly, since the over heating is so bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by ReggieRay
i have heard of thermostats being put in upside down as well . wonder if this is the cause ?
I’m all for people working on their own car but Reggie sounds like your abit in familiar with parts of your engine, I’d suggest someone coming to you or safely getting the car to someone that knows what they are doing. With cooling issues if not worked right you could kill the engine or hurt yourself.
Assuming the top and bottom hose is the same then the thermostat is opened.
Could be air in the system and if so that should be easily fixed.
I’ve not heard of maf sensor causing heating but regardless it’s 5mins to pull out and clean and yes should be done every 5000km it’s cheap, fast and simple to do.
anyone in Brisbane who can help? can pay $$.. every mechanic I go to doesn't seem to know what they're doing and charge me money for just farting around.. I've topped the non pressurised overflow bottle up a few times already..
I did a 40 minute round trip today with an hour break in between with no issues strangely 🤔 first time in ages it has run without issues..
anyone in Brisbane can help?
again could be air and wasnt all bleed out, now after driving and topping it up it may be bleeding air out and getting better.
there is no harm in taking the pressure cap off the coolant bottle and sit the car till its up to temp, turn the heater on and and make sure the ground is level or at least the top of the bottle is the highest point of the cooling system.
and you may find some air coming out after about half an hour you should have all the air out and put the cap on and go for a drive.
hope that makes sense it would be easier to talk rather than type.
This tells me there must have been air in the system and its bleeding itself out.Quote:
Originally Posted by ReggieRay
Since you posted that it is a self blurping system, I wonder if there is a blockage somewhere. @ReggieRay did you have the heater control set to hot with when you filled the system?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Yeah they are mate. Since he's stated that he's topped it up a few times and its been ok on the last trip. It might have just been that. We hope. And the Patrol dont run a heater tap so having the heater on hot or cold wont make a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Learning stuff on here, every day.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
i did not know that, as a general rule on all cars ive always turned the heater on the bleed the cooling system.
figure it cant harm it but good to know.
Yeah the Patrols just divert the hot air from the box rather than using a heater tap to shut off the water supply to the heater core. Been thinking about running a tap somehow as heat does tend to get in via the vents and you really feel it in the summer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireblade
so did a long run around town and was ok until I got on the highway 🤦*♂️🤦*♂️🤦*♂️ when I got off the highway, it got better... what should I do? flush the block? anyone in Brisbane who can help with this? what do you think about this product or is it a gimmick? https://costeffective.com.au/product...ng-value-pack/
It may work but it may be a solution to a cause that you don’t have.
Medicine is good if you have the exact sickness that it’s meant for..
Also saw a price of $500 so not like it’s cheap I feel first step is to get eyes and hands of someone who know what they are doing to look at it..
I Knew a mechanism that said he once saw a patrol air con condenser fan fail and then the confessor heat soaked the radiator causing heating issues, only just remembered the story. Not saying that’s your issue but worth a look
If your going to flush the block find a truck parts place who sell Fleetguard Restore Plus. Trust me. This is the best on the market. I’m a Fleetguard wholesaler and been selling this stuff for 25 or so years. No cleaner comes close to this stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by ReggieRay
https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/si...es/lt36625.pdf
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