Clutch Replacement to cope with extra Berries 08 GU CRD

Has happened(160,000 kms stock clutch)_slipping. Yesterday doing some solid tune climb runs (hauling) with new FM and clutch started excessive slipping mode. Loud pedal 500N-m climbing, high boost 25psi and all of a sudden boost dropped away revs rose from 2500 - 3000 (so quick) and kph stayed same. Drove home limiting slip on hills.
My CRD produces approx 175hp/520N-m(rear wheels).

Looking at HD clutch kit replacement and go with a solid mass flywheel. Spent last 6 hrs reading up about the place. Yeah lots of suppliers noted, looking so far at eg:
Exedy Direct, NPC Viper, Extreme, 4Terrain and Patrolapart kit(Safari Tuff clutch kit). Some use common Exedy clutches.

Give me some advice: What about going with Patrolapart kit (Safari Tuff clutch kit assy)$1145_ consisting: Exedy Safari Pressure Plate, Exedy Safari Tuff clutch and includes a solid / single mass flywheel?

https://patrolapart.com.au/product/n...RIRc5ZoxPrEfQc

just thinking that the clutch you nominated from patrolapart to suit 520Nm might be a bit underrated for you bidja as your pushing so close to that already , so maybe it won't last that long . on a side note , in the past some people have mentioned that they are not happy with the extra vibration they get thru the car with a solid flywheel and i wonder if any one makes a heavy duty dual mass flywheel replacement clutch . anyone ?

@nipagu7 Have amended first post as it was confusing, the 520N-m is my eng output at rear wheels. My engines actuals are is 175hp/520N-m(rear wheels).

Yet to confirm rating of the Safari Tuff clutch kit rating but would assume at least 1000N-m. EXEDY claim that Safari Tuff Clutch Kit comprises a purpose engineered cover assembly which boasts a minimum 25% increase in clamp load in comparison to standard.

The SMF may cause slight vibration in drive train but form research it does not appear to cause much problem.

I am looking at the Safari Tuff Clutch HD. Its rated at 950nm at the flywheel - confirmed this yesterday from the Exedy rep. Brunswick now only use that clutch instead of the Clutch industries units. Seems there are some advantages with the friction plate material that does do build up on the flywheel. The clapmp pressure is high as well, cant remember the number, possibly 1250kg? I am paying $750 for the clutch and pressure plate, retail is circa $1100 ish+, be careful though as the 'Sports ' version has the same part number, but lower performance and price.

Phil,
Exedy Direct sell direct on line, have attached link Exedy Safari Tuff Clutch HD: includes SM flywhl, $1275 for complete conversion kit. Patrolapart do same ($1140) but may use alternate solid mass flywhl (supply new flywhl bolts) and also do the lighter Exedy Sports Tuff clutch conversion kit $1100. Will do the Safari Tuff Clutch HD as well.

https://exedydirect.com.au/exedy-saf...%20REPLACEMENT



What GU do you have and what flywhl you propose to use? Clutch changed 08/04 (05-15).

I have a GQ with the 6.5 Chev and S/c setup. Still working on getting it back on the road. The existing clutch is Nissan clutch on a chev flywheel. The existing one is probably going to start spinning the first time i stick the boot in, so have this one coming as a reserve!

Took mine for a run tonight (15km), took it easy out the dirt road to the hwy, drove cautiously and experienced no slippage on test hill and bell housing temp was just touch warm. When slipping last night, it had been working hard and bell housing was very hot to palm of hand(100 km run though). Clutch operation remains good but not over confident, considering a trip down south for install.

Not something as simple as a film of oil on the clutch, was it? It may have burned off and left the clutch face clean. It may be useful to check out the condition of the clutch before spending dollars.

Slip feel certainly could be described as if oil film was on friction surface but had a slight clutch lining smell when arrived home. First noticed slip driving up long 1.5km solid climb loud pedal, changing down and also reoccurred several time on lesser climbs heading home. I regularly drive in hilly country and this is first occurrence of slip noticed to this extent.

Have been doing timed runs 4&5th loud pedal 60-110km+ and have not observe any slippage. For inspection of clutch, box would need to be pretty well removed $$$s, have removed smaller G/boxes on my own but not attempting this one. Local mechanic quoted clutch change over $5-600 labour and I supply bits.

Will give it another run.

Our Van clutch was slipping, and smelled a bit. A mechanic noticed a bit of oil at the bottom of the bell housing. He advised me to deliberately slip the clutch to heat up the oil and burn it off. It worked and the clutch lasted until we sold the car a year or so later.

Had a look around bell housing, no oil evident (all glued up/silicon), even fork boot. Would not take much oil to weep if was cause. Will drive same hill it this arvo and see how goes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudnut

Our Van clutch was slipping, and smelled a bit. A mechanic noticed a bit of oil at the bottom of the bell housing. He advised me to deliberately slip the clutch to heat up the oil and burn it off. It worked and the clutch lasted until we sold the car a year or so later.

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Retraced my drive of last night and am 90% certain clutch need replacing. First climb 4th gear / 75% eng load @ 450N-m started slipping real bad, revs just ran away. Turned around came home the easy route, but once again 5th gear 450N-m @2250rpm she slipped away, stopped and had strong smell of cooking clutch plate lining mat'l.

My pedal is very high and think the clamping force would be very low.

Was thinking of doing a run down sth for install as was thinking of putting in reduction gears at same time, but doubt I would get over the divide. Make some phone calls tomorrow to make final decision on clutch conversion kit(HD withg SMF). So many suppliers do not state performance data against there products on line.

I use and always have the Clutch Industries 4 Terrain clutch. Never had and issues with it, my motor is now circa 650nm and the clutch is holding it easily.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bidja

Has happened(160,000 kms stock clutch)_slipping. Yesterday doing some solid tune climb runs (hauling) with new FM and clutch started excessive slipping mode. Loud pedal 500N-m climbing, high boost 25psi and all of a sudden boost dropped away revs rose from 2500 - 3000 (so quick) and kph stayed same. Drove home limiting slip on hills.
My CRD produces approx 175hp/520N-m(rear wheels).

Looking at HD clutch kit replacement and go with a solid mass flywheel. Spent last 6 hrs reading up about the place. Yeah lots of suppliers noted, looking so far at eg:
Exedy Direct, NPC Viper, Extreme, 4Terrain and Patrolapart kit(Safari Tuff clutch kit). Some use common Exedy clutches.

Give me some advice: What about going with Patrolapart kit (Safari Tuff clutch kit assy)$1145_ consisting: Exedy Safari Pressure Plate, Exedy Safari Tuff clutch and includes a solid / single mass flywheel?

https://patrolapart.com.au/product/n...RIRc5ZoxPrEfQc

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Without sounding over opinionated and narrow minded, any chance i can convince you to go auto?

I couldnt imagine anything worse than buying a clutch again amd eventually flogging it out due to the high hp and weight of our vehicles.

You can purchase an re4 auto and a manualised valve body for around the same price as a decent clutch and you'll never have to worry about frying them again.

Yeah they suck a bit of fun out of wheeling but your low crawl control is second to none, on road is better, less time loss between gears etc...

A manualised auto still requires you to manually change gears if you like the manual feel of driving too.

I have a fully built fully manualised re4 auto thats rated to 1000hp and theres currently one in sydney running 9.90s down the quarter taking constant abuse...

Speaking of which, i am currentpy making close to 450rwhp in my patrol for close to 2 years and i can tell you now there is no way any viper clutch or other ckutch will cope with the power amd weight and stuff i have done in my patrol even on the street.

We are currently waiting for a new cooler and echaust to be made to retune it for a rear wheel figure of over 500rwkw (700rwhp)

Just my two bob... its never too late ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Baby Daddy

Without sounding over opinionated and narrow minded, any chance i can convince you to go auto?

I couldnt imagine anything worse than buying a clutch again amd eventually flogging it out due to the high hp and weight of our vehicles.

You can purchase an re4 auto and a manualised valve body for around the same price as a decent clutch and you'll never have to worry about frying them again.

Yeah they suck a bit of fun out of wheeling but your low crawl control is second to none, on road is better, less time loss between gears etc...

A manualised auto still requires you to manually change gears if you like the manual feel of driving too.

I have a fully built fully manualised re4 auto thats rated to 1000hp and theres currently one in sydney running 9.90s down the quarter taking constant abuse...

Speaking of which, i am currentpy making close to 450rwhp in my patrol for close to 2 years and i can tell you now there is no way any viper clutch or other ckutch will cope with the power amd weight and stuff i have done in my patrol even on the street.

We are currently waiting for a new cooler and echaust to be made to retune it for a rear wheel figure of over 500rwkw (700rwhp)

Just my two bob... its never too late ;)

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500rwkw is a BIG difference to Johns 140rwkw( or there abouts). Any decent clutch will last 80-100thou, if not abused.

@Baby Daddy your numbers are certainly from a different league to my CRD. I run a VNT Procharge stage 3 h/f turbo @ 27 psi that takes a bit to get the turbine to spin up below 1500 rpm and an auto box running higher/quicker change would most likely help out but guess I am a bit old school.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

I use and always have the Clutch Industries 4 Terrain clutch. Never had and issues with it, my motor is now circa 650nm and the clutch is holding it easily.

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Mark is this the CI Heavy Duty, do you have a part number and what flywheel you running?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Baby Daddy

You can purchase an re4 auto and a manualised valve body for around the same price as a decent clutch and you'll never have to worry about frying them again.

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Have an inquisitive side, guess this purchase is of a second hand RE4 auto gear box and controller + need trans cooler?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bidja

Mark is this the CI Heavy Duty, do you have a part number and what flywheel you running?

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The 4 Terrain is there heavy duty range. Like the Tuff Clutch range of Safari.
http://clutchindustries.com.au/range...ainclutch.html

No part number sorry, theres only one clutch that will suit yours. And I was running a solid flywheel...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

The 4 Terrain is there heavy duty range. Like the Tuff Clutch range of Safari.
http://clutchindustries.com.au/range...ainclutch.html

No part number sorry, theres only one clutch that will suit yours. And I was running a solid flywheel...

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Have checked these pages, will ring_thanks mate. Interesting, local mechanic friend has suggested same.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bidja

Have an inquisitive side, guess this purchase is of a second hand RE4 auto gear box and controller + need trans cooler?

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You'll most probably have it come with the tranny itself.
Not sure about bellhousing transmission control module etc as i changed those amd my car was a factory tb45 so it came with an re4 already...

Realistically though you can buy them amd a manualised valve body so you domt use the tcm anymore and its then manualised.

Will have to check when buying if it comes with torque converter or not

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Baby Daddy

You'll most probably have it come with the tranny itself.
Not sure about bellhousing transmission control module etc as i changed those amd my car was a factory tb45 so it came with an re4 already...

Realistically though you can buy them amd a manualised valve body so you domt use the tcm anymore and its then manualised.

Will have to check when buying if it comes with torque converter or not

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Not this time round, mystery secondhand RE4 $700 + $1300 for controller + other bits, get up round $2500. Interesting though.

Decided on 4 Terrain Ulitimate ER2 cutch kit/SMF (recommended rated flywheel torque @ 620N-m / Peak 782 N-m). Ebay good price paid $1070 with discounts (free delivery).
Less than half price as quoted from Repco/SuperCheap (some ones making $$s)
Quoted install(local) $500-600.

Brand: Clutch Industries - 4 TERRAIN ULTIMATE ER2 (consisting):

4Terrain Single Mass Flywheel

- 4Terrain Ultimate ER2 Clutch Cover
- 4Terrain Ultimate Organic/Aramid Segmented Clutch Plate
- Release Bearing
- Spigot Bearing
- Alignment Tool

Part Number: 4TUDMR2474N

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEAVY-DU...-/152889384660

Have attached a torque graph showing the 4Terrain clutch variants (HD & Ultimate) against OEM for those interested.

New 4 Terrain ER2 clutch and SM flywheel delivered today but missing flywheel to crank bolt set. Contacted OEM / supplier (CI Aust) good bloke, told him install is scheduled for Wednesday, first he said, need to contact seller and then said what we will do is send bolt set Toll priority (Air overnight) direct. Recon that is service, just now need to get my hands on it(not metro to metro).

Yeah I’ve never had an issue with Clutch Industries. I used them a lot when I had my store. First class help they have every time.


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For some reason bolt kit missed Toll pick up last night, now all good have a consignment # and seen that is in transit (air). Gave me a chance to amend delivery address to hold at depot, so first up in the morn will go and pick up in town. The local mechanic got me to drop vehicle off early this arvo as they had finished a job that made a space.

Speaking with a fella has same (ER2) in CRD, real happy with pedal feel and no shudder. Looking fwd.

And???


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Not off the hoist yet. Bolt set delivered and ready to go, G/Box and dual mass flywheel out and on floor, stunk heaps, serious hot spot on pressure plate, clutch plate right down near to metal and DMF nearly falling apart. No wonder I thought good idea to stop driving it before going no where... lol.

Was surprised that the starter ring gear is a separate disc assy (separate unit to the dual mass flywheel). Proving a bit stubborn to to remove (may be hung up on locating dowels) from crank interface. Hope it is on the road tomorrow.

Very interested to see how she spools up (early boost with more load low down) without slipping.

I had some hesitation going a SMF, as read reports of shudder low down and generally a bit noisier in drive train.

Must say, I am so pleased with the function/performance of the new 4 Terrain Ultimate ER 2 conversion clutch kit (SMF), pedal feels no heavier, no shudder at all (even when lugging 1100-1300 rpm) and not noisy. Engages at low pedal to floor but won't think about adjusting until she wears in a bit(works good).

Glad I did not attempt to remove gearbox by myself, sooo big laying on the floor.

Nice one. The pedal will eventually engage higher too as the clutch wears in.

Anyone who needs help anything about 4Terrain Clutch, please do not hesitate to inbox/contact me. Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by donnie.g

Anyone who needs help anything about 4Terrain Clutch, please do not hesitate to inbox/contact me. Thanks.

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Do you have experience you wish to share?

Edit: Drop by the intro section and tell us a bit about yourself_welcome.

Hi Everyone,

My name is Don. It's been four years, I worked as a customer support at Mantic Clutch- an Australian manufacturer of high-quality performance clutch kits helping drivers everywhere get the best from their vehicle. Whether you are lined up in a drag race competition or out for some Sunday off-roading, with our dedication to premium quality, eye for precision and affordable prices, we deliver twin disc, racing clutch kits that make your driving experience more meaningful and more exciting.

So, if you need anything about clutch, you may inbox me through our website: manticclutch.com