Auspecial's GQ

Hey all,

Starting a build thread for my patrols, I recently repurchased my original GQ td42 wagon that I first bought in 2008/9. Nowadays she is a bit of a rust heap but the engine is happy and healthy. As such I recently bought a super clean tb42 efi GQ wagon and planning to swap the engines. Never attempted a job this big before but I'm excited at the prospect and will be starting the job in a couple of weeks time. Will be doing lots or reading on the forum at other peoples swaps.

At the moment while I have the engine out I am planning to replace the clutch, rear main seal, and get a bung welded into the sump for when I eventually wack a turbo on her. Anything else I should be looking at doing? What clutch kits do people recommend? I was looking at the Exedy sports tuff clutch from Patrolapart for $575.

Pic is of the new patrol. Will get photos as I complete the swap and update this thread.

Attachment 78858

Be easier to swap bodies I reckon as you will need to swap fuel lines and looms over. I have done a body swap and it wasn't hard at all. But time consuming but in the end you'll have a better car with the right loom etc installed instead of a hacked up loom taco that might work etc. Where abouts are you

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I had read that you can use the tb42 tank and lines just got to give them a good run through with diesel fuel? Other reasons im swapping engines is that my current gq box isnt great, I think the synchos are going plus my front diff took a bit of a hit at some point and has a mild bend on one of the radius arm mount points. Im located in north sydney.

I fitted an exeedy safari tuff clutch which is probably a bit heavier than what you need but might be what you want if you ever upgrade the pump as well. Terrain tamer sell a rebadged version of it.

My pump and turbo are rated at 250hp(Don't know the actual figures yet) and this was the clutch recommended for me.

Edit:Should say, they recommended the clutch for the expected tourqe at that HP range.. which is somewhere in the 5-600nm range I think

I did a TD manual swap on my carby auto, pretty easy if you’re half decent on the tools
All the mounts line up, I did a loom swap, engine bay loom runs from the passenger guard around the aerial along the radiator support and then into the cabin, dash has to come out and then connects under the passenger front seat.

If you have two complete cars would be super easy.

I used all my carby fuel lines and tank, apparently EFI ones won’t work but can’t confirm. All I did was prime it using the fuel filter primer till nothing but diesel came out.

As for clutches, I should have put a better clutch in mine. I just put a $300 ebay special but am now regretting it now I’ve given it some extra power. What’s the power goal?

I spoke to Exedy and they rate they’re safari heavy duty at 850nm at the flywheel, if you want around 600nm at the wheels this would be nearing its limits, I’m going to a UFI clutch that is rated at 850nm at the wheels

Thanks for all the tips fellas, I think I will stick with the engine swap rather than the body swap. As for power figures im not sure, havent thought of specific numbers but whatever my stock pump can send out for now and in the future going boost compensated 11mm. As for turbos was thinking the disco potato gt2860 seemed like a pretty nice all round turbo, I have the beginings of a DTS turbo kit, high mount mani, crossover pipe etc. Does anybody know what bung I should be getting welded into the sump while I have it out?

Rego is the other thing to think of. Is 1 registered atm and other not. Body swap is actually very easy. You'll end up doing loom swap anyways to make it "right". Engine and box swap is easy to though so haha

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Update time, I began the swap on Sunday 21/7:

• Day 1 - Spent the day labelling all the wires in the td42 engine bay and taking off what was connecting the engine to the engine bay.
  Being the weekend had a bunch of mates around to give an extra hand. Didn't have any issues in this department until we tried to free
  the engine from the bell housing. Didn't realise that we also had to undo the starter motor bolts so did that but still no luck. Ended up
  getting a hot tip to depress the clutch pedal and this let her free. Unfortunately it was now dark and we discovered that the engine
  crane did jack high enough to clear the front of the bay despite letting down the tyres.
  
• Day 2 - Initially I planned to spend the day just cleaning the components I had removed and doing my best to prep for when another
  mate with a large truck mounted crane would come to assist. Fortunately some more hot internet tips came in the form of taking the
  springs out. Only needed to take one side out and it seemed like the engine would make it out so I gave it a shot and out she came. Good stuff!
  I then removed the clutch pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel. The took the sump off and that concluded the day. A hot tip for anyone doing the
  clutch, the flywheel bolts are tight AF and the crank will spin as you try to undo them. So put one of the bell housing bolts back into the engine
  near the top of the flywheel and jam something into the flywheel teeth and against the bolt to stop the flywheel turning.
  
• Day 3 - Shopping day. Spent the majority of the day down in the industrial area firstly getting the flywheel machined and also getting an oil
  drain plug welded into the sump for my future turbo project. In the afternoon managed to get the sump back onto the vehicle which was rather
  annoying given the trillions of bolts Nissan decided to use and working upside down while the engine is on the crane.
  
• Day 4 - Got my rear main seal installed today, nothing too tricky, definitely a destructive removal technique used to get the old one out,
  but nothing a screwdriver and some needle nose pliers couldn't fix. Also got my Exedy heavy duty clutch installed. Used the opposite technique
  on the flywheel bolts to get them torqued up again. In the afternoon started labelling wires and ripping off components off my tb42. Radiator
  drained and removed, air box removed (PIA), power steering drained. Tomorrow I am hoping to get the tb42 out for Friday when I will have a
  mate over to hopefully help getting the td42 into its new home.

And some piccies, my phone camera is broken so these are crappy but at least something.
Great success, she is out. Old patrol looking sad.
Attachment 78951
Shiny new clutch.
Attachment 78949
AN -10 Oil Drain Fitting "Future Proofing"
Attachment 78950

I have some questions for the Patrol gurus. I plan to convert my tb42 wiring to run the td42. Seems someone straight forward but looking for any tips and hints. What part of the tb loom do you use for the fuel cut solenoid on the injector pump? I understand I need to extend the alternator wiring also.

I 5hink from what has been said,get the rd wire loom,plug it in from left hand guard by Ariel and everything should be on nee loom

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Avo

I 5hink from what has been said,get the rd wire loom,plug it in from left hand guard by Ariel and everything should be on nee loom

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You mean I should take the td loom from the passenger side and plug it into the tb? The fuel cut solenoid and such seems to come from the drivers side though?

Hey mate when i did mine(long time ago lol), I picked up a wire that sent to the carby, was a brown one from memory and used that one. Although it was on gas pretty sure it was a factory plug and wiring.

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Awesome thanks for the tip, mine is an efi so may just have to do some hunting on the wiring diagrams for an appropriate pin. Did you use any of your TD loom when you did it?

Nah didn't have a donor car so just adapted the TB loom. I've put an aftermarket Boggart glow plug timer in hooked up to the TD cluster and works well, tach is wired into the pin on back of cluster too. Only thing i haven't done is hooked up the lamp for the water separator on the fuel filter but imagine wouldn't be too hard. . Apart from that they're pretty similar just extend wiring across to alternator. .

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legend thanks mate, will update this thread with my success failures.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rossco

Nah didn't have a donor car so just adapted the TB loom. I've put an aftermarket Boggart glow plug timer in hooked up to the TD cluster and works well, tach is wired into the pin on back of cluster too. Only thing i haven't done is hooked up the lamp for the water separator on the fuel filter but imagine wouldn't be too hard. . Apart from that they're pretty similar just extend wiring across to alternator. .

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Hey mate what did you do about the petrol fuel pump? Did you just leave it in and disconnect the wires from an access point in the boot or something like that?

Update time:

• Day 5 - Taking more things off the tb42 including battling with the damned top two bell housing bolts. Made worse on the tb42 by there being way more junk at the back of the firewall and having the factory sound deadening.
• Day 6 - Finally got the last two bell housing bolts out in the morning, was planning on jacking up the engine, removing the engine mounts and then lowering it right down to access them but ended up using the double
  spanner trick to get them cracked and then used a ratcheting spanner to remove them. The ratcheting spanners have been an absolute godsend on this job. After that the engine came out pretty quick smart. Only needed to remove
  one spring from the front suspension and she cleared the front on the 500kg peg of the crane, even with 33's. Next lot of jobs included swapping over some fuel lines for the fuel filter, power steering lines, and swapping the bell housings.
  We did the thrust bearing at this time also. It was then one last double check to make sure we had done everything correctly and in the TD when. Took us ages of very careful lowering and adjusting to get the engine lined up to the
  bell housing but we got their in the end and managed to slot a couple of bolts before it got dark. To anyone playing along at home, remove the fan and viscous hub to give yourself maximum room in the bay when you're putting one in.
• Day 6 - Had a little go at lining up the engine mounts this morning but no luck then had to do non fun stuff to finance the project. Hoping to get it all done and dusted tomorrow.

TD42 waiting its turn.
Attachment 78975
Last minute prep. Fresh engine mounts visible.
Attachment 78973
Empty bay. Bell housing swapped, new thrust bearing, fuel filter and lines swapped, and power steering lines swapped.
Attachment 78972
Driveway explosion.
Attachment 78976

Day 7 - Big day today, got the engine mounts lined up which was a huge pain on my own, lots of jiggling and slowly lowering and lifting the engine but eventually got it.
Got all the bell housing bolts buttoned up and then began reinstalling components. Starter motor was tough on my own but the rest fell into place somewhat easily.
A couple of tips:

• I had left the oil filter on as I had only recently changed them but putting the starter back in would have been 200% easier had I removed them.
• When using shackles for the engine crane, on the rear mount make sure you have the shackle undo towards the engine, it will get jammed against the firewall otherwise.
• The fuel lines on my tb42e body were smaller than the lines from the td42 fuel filter so I am off to enzed today to get an adaptor. Will update with specs.

Today I am sourcing a fuel line adaptor as when we tried to start her the fuel pump kicked in and she pumped out fuel onto the driveway.
I am also getting some waterproof electrical connectors to neaten up the wiring.
Finally getting a relay and fuse to connect up the glowplugs, anybody know what size fuse I should be using?

What sort of 'adapter' are you getting for the fuel return line? I would have thought there would be a return line required right back to the tank?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Auspecial

anybody know what size fuse I should be using?

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I've got this for fuse references, pulled that off of Google:

Wire Gauge------Recommended
-------------------Maximum Fuse Size
00 awg-----------400 amps
0 awg------------325 amps
1 awg------------250 amps
2 awg------------200 amps
4 awg------------125 amps
6 awg------------80 amps
8 awg------------50 amps
10 awg-----------30 amps
12 awg-----------20 amps
14 awg-----------15 amps
16 awg-----------7.5 amps

As for what Nissan used, I'll check my Haynes manual tonight as I can't find a wiring diagram that shows the glow plug circuit on here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

What sort of 'adapter' are you getting for the fuel return line? I would have thought there would be a return line required right back to the tank?

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Its just a rubber hose adaptor, so going: tb42 chassis hardline > tb42 fuel hose > adaptor > td42 fuel hose > td42 fuel filter hardlines. Now found out I need one from the injector pump return also :| Back to Enzed I go.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jimmyboyjr4

I've got this for fuse references, pulled that off of Google:

As for what Nissan used, I'll check my Haynes manual tonight as I can't find a wiring diagram that shows the glow plug circuit on here.

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Looks the good, I got a 100amp fuse and 4awg wire so that should sort it. Tried to kick it over just now but nothing on the starter. I was really hoping for no electrical gremlins.

Well its finally done and I am out on the road, quite an experience. I am glad I did it but won't be rushing to do it again it took me a long time. I am no expert when it comes to working on cars though and this is easily the biggest project I have ever undertaken.
I had some minor issues getting it all buttoned up, primarily finding a suitable wire to use for my fuel cut solenoid on the injector pump. I probed around with my multi-meter to find a wire that was 12V when in ON and START ending up finding one that was right near
the injector pump as part of the large amount of wires used for the efi system. What I failed to check is that this wire had enough amps to switch the solenoid (it didn't). I ended up using the wire that goes to the coil on the other side of the engine bay. Some things
left to do is. Wire up fuel, temp and tacho gauges. Tidy up existing unused wires from the efi system. Install my fancy new Stedi LED headlights. Swap over the suspension from the old rig. Then hoping to turbo it in my break at the end of the year.

Thought I would give this thread of a general update of what I'm doing with the car. Good for me to look back on in the future. The patrol had been leaking oil more and more severely and I diagnosed it as a rear main seal, when I installed the rear main during the swap I noticed that I had marked the rubber lightly but I thought it would be okay as it was on the non oil side. Anyway given the current state of events and not having a job I decided to do it this weekend. Friday ripped most of the accessories out, Saturday got the engine out and the seal swapped over, with the ingenuity of a mate to make a tool to press the seal in straight this time. Sunday morning got the engine back in and lined up on the mounts, then had the arvo off. Finally on Monday got all the bit and bobs back on and she started up first go. Some notes from the experience:

• Need new engine mount bolts, the threads aren't looking 100%.
• Getting the engine lined up to the bellhousing and engine mounts was more painful than I remembered.
• Need a new coolant and heater hose kit, mine are a big haggard.

It's kinda a shame I went to all this trouble just to do the rear main when I was planning on bolting a turbo on soon and it would have been nice to do that while the engine was out, but corona times call for corona measures.

Also can a mod please change the name of this thread to Auspecial's GQ

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Auspecial

Also can a mod please change the name of this thread to Auspecial's GQ

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Hi mate, just pm @MudRunnerTD or @Woof

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