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Hi all, I've just returned from a trip and have noticed now that when the engine is cold and the motor under load (between 1700 and 2500 prm) I get a loud screeching noise coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. Once it warms up the sound goes away. I've been doing some reading on threads here and people mention fan belt, idler, EGR value and warped manifold for this kind of noise. Any thoughts??? Bang Head My vehicle is a 2008 3.0 CRD Auto.
Mine is doing that currently (td42). Bit of soapy water around where the turbo mounts to the manifold (when the engine is cold) will show if it's leaking or not. I've just got a new gasket and studs ready to go in when I get the time. Will probably be next week.
Edit: mine is leaking from here and is apparently playing the gasket like a gumleaf. Comes and goes with the egt temps. I.e. temps over 250 it's gone but pipes up when it cools off.
You’ve either split the egr tube or the exhaust manifold is warped. But are fairly common to happen on those motors.
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My money is on the EGR pipe at the back of the motor.
Happened to me on my 2009 crd. Exact same scenario , especially when it spools up cold.
Fairly common.
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I've also read it could be the alternator pulley clutch?
Can you see the split on the EGR pipe?
Could be but that would make the noise all the time I would think. A split pipe or warped manifold will lessen as the metal heats up and expands. Get a torch and check for soot marks anywhere on that side.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex
im with mudski, egr pipe or exhause manifold i work at a nissan dealer we see it alot and its happened to my 2008 crdQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
ussually 2 out of 8 manifold studs snap and the manifold warps.
get a new manifold dont machine the old one and get 8 new studs.
@Flex Recon EGR pipe or exhaust manifold. Take turbo heat shield off first and have a bit of a look around. Mine 08 CRD both EGR pipe had split and Exhaust manifold first two studs gone by 145,000ks. Split EGR pipe no problem if blanking plate both ends (something to consider). Need to remove front manifold heat shield to check front studs but if manifold is leaking (may not be obvious) fit new gasket with a new or M/C manifold (up to you), but use Inconel studs and wurth nuts (lock ring & copper coated so they don't corrode). Also have done tensioner but this does not sound the problem here.
Can not recommend other improvements (eg: NADS etc) as we do not know your eng mods to date.
x 3 with the split EGR pipe pretty common with the CRD motor
you can block the egr with a stainless plate. Can I suggest you
purchase a scan guage a must for CRD owners
Thanks all for your suggestions. I starting looking at the car today trying to find what was making the noise. I noticed after a while I could smell exhaust fumes in the engine bay while the motors was ruining. So I crawled under the car and starting looking around the exhaust. Then I found the below
It looks like a crack where the tube meets the flange. Is this what you guys were talking about in regards to the EGR pipe?
How do you go about replacing it as it's hard up against the firewall?
Attachment 78485
Attachment 78486
By the looks of your picture, U have stock exhaust.
IMO, think about fitting 3" exhaust sys (muffler / CAT) and while doing that remove the nuts that hold the EGR pipe flange up against exhaust manifold and fit a solid blanking plate and also do other end at the inlet manifold (then leave broken pipe in place). This mod (blocking EGR) is a good option and is part of the NADS installation that is beneficial for the engine performance and life. Part of the upgrade (NADS), U need a scan tool so to clear trouble codes as you will possible get a fault code P0401 - means that the engine computer has detected that the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system flow is insufficient (resulting from blocking EGR assy). A scan tool is required and is a very useful diagnostic tool.
With larger exhaust sys and blocking EGR assy, consider installing "manual boost control" Dawes or Tillix and a needle valve. These mods will provide an improved run and controlled max boost @ say 16-16.5 psi and your EGTs will improve(reduce).
For boost management you need a boost gauge or say an UtraGauge (scan tool) that can provide boost measurement up to 22.3psi (would be adequate for stock engine or even for a ECU remap running boost of 22psi.
Suggest installing a Catch Can (ie: ProVent 200).
Gauges: Need EGT and Boost gauges. For the EGT gauge, the exhaust sys require to be fitted with a pyro probe and most provide this option.
The result would be good, something to think about.
How do you go about replacing the pipe as it's hard up against the firewall and the motor?
Remove intercooler and its frame, turbo heat shield, EGR assy_3 nuts @ exhaust manifold and 2 hx hd bolts at back of egr assy(radiator section)_refer your 2nd attachment @post 10 (radiator section not shown-it runs along side of eng on drivers side). Should be able to lift / jiggle upwards to remove the rear pipe section.
Might be best to get new exhaust fitted at shop and at same time get them to do EGR job (new pipe section or block both ends).
U will need to soak fasteners for a few days with a good anti-corrosive soak perpetrator prior to doing job.
May have to remove / drop dump pipe down out of the way to allow access to nuts @ exhaust manifold.
Will most likely split again after 100-150 thou kms, suggest you think about blocking both ends(refer suggestions post 11).