2007 Nissan Patrol (3.0 Diesel) - 120km Service

Hi All,

I purchased my 2007 Nissan Patrol (3.0 Diesel) about 6 months ago and today I took it for its first service since owning the vehicle (120km service).

When I collect the car a little later, I will probably have a few questions to post regarding the outcome of service as I would like to get to know my vehicle and local mechanic a bit better.

As mentioned above, i would like to get to know my vehicle better (first time ive owned a 4x4) and hopefully some of the experienced 4x4'ers could help me with questions i may have.

Hopefully I'm posting in the correct forum section?

Cheers,
Robbie

Hi All,

Got my vehicle back after its 120km service. The service cost $690 and they did everything required, such as replacing fluids and filters etc.

The also mentioned the below 3 items, which werent urgent, but should be looked at in the next few months:

1: L/H Rear axle oil seal starting to leak, will need seal and grease to be replaced ($550). He said if i leave it it could get all over brakes etc and becomes a bigger job.
2: Front wheel bearings needs seal and grease replaced ($450). He said while im doing the above, i might as well get this done.

Both the above they would require vehicle for 2 days as i think they axle gets worked on by someone else?

3: Turbo exhaust noise - This noise started about 2 weeks ago, but seems to have gone away after service.

He mentioned these are common issues but nothing major at all.

Keen to hear everyone's thoughts? Would it be helpful if i sent some pics of item 1 and 2?

Cheers,
Robbie

Sometimes on the CRD 3ltrs the egr pipe will split

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Sometimes on the CRD 3ltrs the egr pipe will split

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Would this be in relation to the turbo exhaust noise?

Possible it will be louder when cold and nearly go away when hot.
it will go up and down with your revs.
Maybe get an EGR blanking plate fitted along with a scan gauge,
a must for owners of CRD IMO

Spot on! When I start the vehicle for the first time, I hear the "squeal" for the 1st minute of driving, however, it goes away shortly after. There is no loss of power when accelerating.

Given we approaching the Eater period, I'll only be able to get it checked out in a couple of weeks, should i be concerned when driving the vehicle before i get it checked out?

Where about are you located mate?

Edit: just saw Brissy. I was going to recommend a second quote re the leaking seals, I had mine done and I'm sure it was cheaper but I cant reccomend anyone up your way


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by rusty_nail

Where about are you located mate?

Edit: just saw Brissy. I was going to recommend a second quote re the leaking seals, I had mine done and I'm sure it was cheaper but I cant reccomend anyone up your way

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I'm in the Wynnum / Manly area. Fairly new to the area (and Brisbane), so just went to my local mechanic for the service, but happy to use someone else going forward. I might call around and see how much the job would cost elsewhere. BTW.. my local mechanic wasnt going to do the seals, he was going to use his contact.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robbie_p

Spot on! When I start the vehicle for the first time, I hear the "squeal" for the 1st minute of driving, however, it goes away shortly after. There is no loss of power when accelerating.

Given we approaching the Eater period, I'll only be able to get it checked out in a couple of weeks, should i be concerned when driving the vehicle before i get it checked out?

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4 possibilities, eg:

1.

Quote:

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For turbo / exhaust sound

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EGR pipe passing back of motor adjacent to firewall as @threedogs mentioned. Try looking with mirror for soot/crack(difficult), would remove turbo heat shield.

2. Exhaust manifold gasket leaking (maybe broken studs_eg: common first 2 studs fail/ manifold warped), early stages, gap can take up after engine warms up and noise can stop.
Best to remove turbo heat shield and front exhaust manifold heat shield to get good visual. If you have manual boost control you can unwind your needle valve at idle and this will reduce boost level and sometimes the noise at early stages of failure can stop. When my exhaust manifold gasket failed, there was a metallic type honing squeal coming from around turbo inlet, thought it was turbo compressor wheel hitting against its housing bore. Changed out turbo and the noise was still present (with new turbo) and ended up being failure of exhaust manifold gasket (pulled down for the second time).

3. Turbo to dump pipe flange gasket due to nuts coming undone. Get under veh, look up under turbo heat shield and check for evidence of exhaust soot residue on shield inside face.

4. If only squeal (bearing like): Could be belt tensioner, at early stages of failure noise(squeal) can stop shortly after first starting engine. At idle try applying water at low pressure around tensioner and fan belt and see if noise changes.

Note: Have had all 4 failures since new (08 CRD) 150,000kms.

Suggest you buy a tensioner and new belt as you will need one anyway at some time (in case of failure_be prepared). With noise stopping since car service, most likely be tensioner(hopefully). Rather know what the problem is before travelling long distances over Easter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bidja

4 possibilities, eg:

1. EGR pipe passing back of motor adjacent to firewall as @threedogs mentioned. Try looking with mirror for soot/crack(difficult), would remove turbo heat shield.

2. Exhaust manifold gasket leaking (maybe broken studs_eg: common first 2 studs fail/ manifold warped), early stages, gap can take up after engine warms up and noise can stop.
Best to remove turbo heat shield and front exhaust manifold heat shield to get good visual. If you have manual boost control you can unwind your needle valve at idle and this will reduce boost level and sometimes the noise at early stages of failure can stop. When my exhaust manifold gasket failed, there was a metallic type honing squeal coming from around turbo inlet, thought it was turbo compressor wheel hitting against its housing bore. Changed out turbo and the noise was still present (with new turbo) and ended up being failure of exhaust manifold gasket (pulled down for the second time).

3. Turbo to dump pipe flange gasket due to nuts coming undone. Get under veh, look up under turbo heat shield and check for evidence of exhaust soot residue on shield inside face.

4. If only squeal (bearing like): Could be belt tensioner, at early stages of failure noise(squeal) can stop shortly after first starting engine. At idle try applying water at low pressure around tensioner and fan belt and see if noise changes.

Note: Have had all 4 failures since new (08 CRD) 150,000kms.

Suggest you buy a tensioner and new belt as you will need one anyway at some time (in case of failure_be prepared). With noise stopping since car service, most likely be tensioner(hopefully). Rather know what the problem is before travelling long distances over Easter.

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Thanks Bidja, but unfortunately i have very little experience in what or where to look, however, ill have a look, perhaps take some pics.. i guess its all part of the learning process.

My mechanic did mention that i should take the vehicle to his contact who specializes in exhausts.

The noise is still there after service, but only comes in the first minute or starting the car then goes away. Have only noticed the noise for a couple of weeks.

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My money is on the tensioner pulley, only because I had the same symptoms.

@Robbie_p Think @jack is also onto it, suggest you look at tensioner first up. Based on many others having similar tensioner failure and the inevitability of you experiencing same, it would be worth changing your tensioner and belt.
You can do it yourself as a good intro to working on your own vehicle with help from the forum. All good mate and may be cost effective.

Explain where you think the noise is coming from and its sound?

Attached is a diagram i found on this forum. its the EGR pipe, which ill inspect in the morning.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jack

My money is on the tensioner pulley, only because I had the same symptoms.

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How would i be able to confirm this? If it was, would my mechanic have picked it up instead of suggesting i see an exhaust guy?

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Same symptons as others had, it's a known issue, it squealed for a short time on startup then stopped. Usually only when it was cold start first thing in the morning, took it to Nissan (under warranty) and told them it was the idler pulley. They couldn't replicate the squeal so told them to keep it overnight and see what happenend at firt startup in the morning.
Yup, they replaced the pulley and that was 20,000km ago and no more squeal. Leave it to long and the bearing will collapse.

@jack and @Bidja, ive opened the bonnet and going to put a little water on the tension belt and see if it changes the sound of the squeel.

There appears to be 2 belts in the area, one flat and one more ridged.

Which is tension pully?http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...019/04/167.jpg

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Also, i just gave my mechanic a call. He told told me they checked the tension belts thoroughly and the log book also indicated that the tension belt was actually replaced at 110km, so not that long ago.

He seemed to think it was definitely exhaust related and mentioned something about when the vehicle warmed up something was sealing (hence the noise went away shortly after starting).

Could this potentially point back to EGR pipe?

Info - Is your 07 ZD engine DI or CRD?

Only one fan belt used (multi ribbed), it travels from the bottom then over to top side of the adjacent pulleys giving it the appearance of two belts (smooth and ribbed faces). Pic shows belt fitment: The tensioner (jockey pullley) applies pressure to the belt to retain belt tension. Note pic states Damper Unit (also called tensioner)

Belt may be fine it is the bearing in the tensioner that could be causing squeal at start up.

Mechanic thinking has exhaust leak sound, could be exhaust manifold gasket or related, this is why I asked you to describe again what you think it sounds like and the approx location. Have a read of post 9 again mate:

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post782173

I have a 2007 Common Rail Diesel.

The belt tensioner on CRD's do not live long. Their bearings get noisy, and the tensioner can leak oil, sometime destroying the belt. I have a 2014 Titanium Patrol currently with 75k on it. I replaced the complete belt tensioner assembly at 40k, because of a complete failure, and it's now the bearing has started to get noisy again. I always carry a complete assembly, including a new belt, as a spare. I think it we be a regular occurrence.