3.0 td engine performance part

Hi guys, I ended up buying the 2014 td auto, as mentioned in an earlier post.
Are there any modifications I can do for the engine to have some better performance for towing a trailer around Australia?
Snorkel is a must.
What about 3inch redback exhaust?
As because I will be fitting 2"lift, 33" tyres, drawer, dual battery, UHF I don't want to spent over the top, but if there is a must have to get some more torque, better fuel economy, I might do it...
Please help me to set up my rig!
Any other essentials to be fitted for a trip around the island?
Ty Kai

Patrolapart have an air cleaner lid for the ZD30, that helps make them breathe better apparently. It may help.

Drop a V8 in it lol
I fitted a Tillix Valve and that gave it some extra mumbo


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Also removing the screens where the maf is helps with air flow, of the egr is blocked then remove the swirl valve as it’s not required in the throttle body.
Make sure all the vacuum hoses are in good condition and keep your maf clean



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Sorry, what is maf ??

Honest question mate, friggin acronyms when not in the know shit meself too!
Mass Airflow Sensor- MAF, not that crap my Mrs watches on TV, pardon the pun!
I believe it’s an elecy sensor that gurus here know how to fix/clean quite easily with the right McChemical [emoji106][emoji106]


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This? https://patrolapart.com.au/product/n...box-suit-gq-gu
Can only find the whole box

That tillix kit sounds very promising. I probably can install it myself, but will I be able to adjust it? Especially that vacuum t-piece?

There's that too, but there is another one, that is just a lid, with an attachment that fits on top of it as well and then connects to the rest of the intake pipe. Keep looking, as I'm on a different device, that I can't copy and paste on.

Sorry
Yes the mass air flow meter is in the pipe just after the air cleaner and has a electrical plug on it.
Each time you do a service, it pays to take it out and clean it with CRC brand MAF cleaner.
ZD30 breath heavy and as such can blow oil backwards and can contaminate the MAF so keep it clean ensures it reads the air flow corrrectly.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2019/04/72.jpg

Tillix and needle valve is easy to install. Geez even I did mine and I’m no rocket scientist [emoji106]
You must have a boost gauge though to set it up.
It comes as two parts. One is the needle valve which controls turbo spool up speed and the Tillix controls max boost as ZD30 have a habit of badly fluctuations in boost pressure or over boost because of a faulty sensor causing the famous ZD30 grenade
Don’t set the boost to any higher than 16 psi and it should be sweet.

When you buy the Tillix Kit , it comes with instructions and all the parts needed to install
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2019/04/73.jpg


That was my set up. The needle valve is closest to the front of the car and the Tillix valve is cable tied to the air con pipe back near the battery.
It’s the little black thing. They have a ball and spring inside that is like a pressure valve.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...92fb0cac81.jpg

The next thing is for a oil catch can, as I said before these engines have serious blow by , forcing oil back into the air inlet, so a catch can will help separate the oil and keep the airways clean.

Possible fit the catch can before fitting the Tillix





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Another thing I noticed was that after fitting 285’s (33’s) to my car, it changed my gearing. The little 4cyl was finding it harder to get off the line especially with the camper on the back on hill starts. I had a manual where your auto will be better, but keep that in mind.
I know of a few people that now have gone down a size from 33’s to equivalent to a 275 (32 )inch and find towing is better and over all it’s it’s better than standard, and if your not going seriously off road, why go for 33’s except for looks ?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kai-san

This? https://patrolapart.com.au/product/n...box-suit-gq-gu
Can only find the whole box

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I found the lid that I was on about and I`m on the desk top comp, so I can copy and paste what I`m on about. Hope it helps in some way.
https://patrolapart.com.au/product/h...ox-lid-gu-zd30

@Kai-san IMO, agree/good idea to install Catch Can(Provent 200), Tillix/needle (even for CRD), the 3" H/F exhaust and improve your induction so she can breath easy (air intake).

As stated above, need to measure your engine boost pressure so you can set Tillix for max boost without limp and you will need a means of clearing fault codes eg: when you over boost and get limp (ie: causes loss of power/boost). The UltraGauge EM Plus (can buy direct from US manufacturer - approx 150AUD) is a good choice as it provides various performance data (including boost pressure) and used to clear trouble/fault codes(limp). When fitting exhaust, install an Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT) gauge and fit a pyro probe in your exhaust dump pipe. As I mentioned, the UltraGaugew EM Plus will give boost pressure via the OBD11 port(this is what the UltraGauge plugs into. This is a good option to observe boost performance and other parameters that are useful. I use UltraGauge in conjunction with VDO boost gauge (boost @Turbo and to observe pressure drop across cooler).

http://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ultragauge_wired.htm

There are other mods to consider but these are a good start.

If you want to go even cheaper for OBDII management & info, you can get the Torque app for your smartphone. It's a very good tool and it costs $7.50 I think. You need a bluetooth OBDII dongle so your phone can talk to your ECU, but they're around $10 and you get them anywhere, try eBay.

A.)If I block the egr, will it give me any fault display in the dashboard? Will I be able to clear the fault with the bluetooth dongle?
B.) Do I have to disable the swirl valve after egr block or is it optional? Can't find any 'how to' on internet

Going up in tyre size wont give you better ltr\Km.
265s return about 12-13 ltr per 100ks
I return 15 ltr per 100 ks sitting on about 105kph
on the hume going to the Murray, running 285s
but 275s as suggested will give you an extra 25mm clearance.
Check and maintain your tyre pressures to suit conditions.
I also have a tigged intercooler, larger scoop and a DP chip set on about 5.
dawes valve , egr block and a needle valve to control spool rate
Its a small engine in a big car so dont expect ferrari like performance.
Mine is an 04 3ltr Di

disabling the swirl valve really only applies to di models and not the crd like yours. blocking th egr can cause the fault warning light to come on but you can read and clear the code with a scangauge/ultra gauge tourque app. 33 inch tyres will give you about 1 inch extra clearance but will rob power from the motor and cost in fuel economy.basically i would start with fitting a catch can ( this will help keep the maf sensor and intercooler free of blowby residue ) and clean the maf sensor at every oil change. then fit a scangauge or similar . i have one permanently mounted to the dash gauge binical where i can keep an eye on the boost . crd's can generally run higher boost than di's without hitting limp mode. i have run mine up to 24psi and have never hit limp mode , i have it set now so it rarely goes over 18psi .then i would sugest fitting a snorkel , safari is good but if you can afford it , a 4inch snorkel to the airbox would be better especially if you decided to upgrade your air box and intercooler to get more power later. next i would fit a dawes/tillix and needle valves and then a 3inch exhaust . if you fit the exhaust first it can sometimes play havoc with the boost . then do the egr if you want.at that point i would asses how it is going as it would probably do the job well at that point, remembering that it is only a 3litre motor and will never be a torque beast

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kai-san

A.)If I block the egr, will it give me any fault display in the dashboard? Will I be able to clear the fault with the bluetooth dongle?
B.) Do I have to disable the swirl valve after egr block or is it optional? Can't find any 'how to' on internet

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Yep, you can clear the EGR 0401 code with the bluetooth dongle & app. That app can also display lots of info frokm the ECU such as boost, engine temp, engine load. I have mine setup so I can see engine temp, revs & load. I have gauges for boost & EGTs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kai-san

A.)If I block the egr, will it give me any fault display in the dashboard?
B.) Do I have to disable the swirl valve after egr block or is it optional? Can't find any 'how to' on internet

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EGR _ Stock ECU with EGR blocked will bring on (illuminate) the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL), or check engine light. With ECU remap the EGR can be turned off(no MIL for this). Also after a few weeks the ECU can learn and MIL may only come on occasionally. MIL can stay on as does not cause harm or lack of performance but just annoying.

Disable Swirl Valve _ Have not done it myself to date (CRD/remap ECU). With remap understand it is not required, need to question this further. People do it for CRD but not essential at all .
To disable, need to close off vacuum supply to swirl valve or unplug electrical connector at swirl valve and place a 330ohm 1 watt carbon film resistor (Jaycar part number RR2762/2 pack) across the terminal points in plug and tape up to prevent moisture ingress. Throttle plate remains open(more air low down). Swirl valve located drivers side of eng just above EGR radiator assy.

Bought resistor myself to try out, was going to do mod a couple of days ago while changing fuel filter out, but could not get to it as I run a large JT intercooler and needs to come off (maybe over Easter when most are up the bush)...