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I have compression issues with #1 and 2 cylinders--both fail to hold compression. #3 and 4 are fine.
Initial diagnosis says there is a blown head gasket between those two.
Has anyone been successful in removing the front timing cover without removing the engine. History from the "water leak" issue I had earlier says the vacuum pump shaft is too long to get the cover off, even with the radiator out.
Any comments, suggestions welcome, otherwise I need to lift the engine out--bummer.
Thanks
Gary
@Hodge.
As far as I know. Its an engine out job.
Edit : Well. Do what I should have done when my 3ltr shat itself. Drop a Cummins it in. If only I knew back then what I knew now I wouldn't have put a TD in.
If it's leaking from where I think it's leaking than it's not unusual for these motors to do this.
My ex-3L crd is still leaking just like this. And has been since 2011.
Common on the zd30 I'm lead to believe. Sandwich plate at timing cover.
When I ran around looking for a fix or someone to fix it , was told it's a motor out jobbie.
There are some posts on the other forum with people getting it done in-situ , but in the end they all said it would have been a far less tedious job if motor got yanked out. Some of them posts have a lot of info and photos.
Personally I left mine as is and just monitor and top up once a month as required. During warmer months it virtually did not leak due to metal expansion I believe compressing the leak hole.
The current owner which I see all the time , does exactly the same .
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Hi Mudski: you are probably correct but I have had too many birthdays to be rebuilding at this stage. Should have done it when I had the engine out to do the water leak.
Hi Hodge: Actually did the engine out water repair a few years back, just a slight bow in the steel plate behind the timing gear. $50 fix for $3K. This is no compression between #1 and #2.
Do you need to remove the timing cover to remove the head in the Di? Its been a while since I last looked at one of these motors. Let hope it is just a head gasket.
The head carries a camshaft that runs off the timing chain at the top part of the front. That covers the drive to the camshaft, so needs to come off.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I suspect I can get the front cover off, and that MAY be enough. I will report later.
OK so I now know the issue is the two front pistons are stuffed--not in the top but down the side. Really bad scoring of the bore in both cylinders. It looks like #2 has been hot, but I guess if a piston or rings or other debris is running up and down the bore it will get hot. No warning on EGT. Injector spray pattern and pressures are all about right.
Does anyone know if this is a "wet sleeve" motor?? Alternative is a rebore and oversize pistons--not my preferred choice.
This has been an expensive poor choice--I opted for the 3.0 because the kw rating was higher than the 4.2 Now I pay the price for the third time--clutch, water leak and now ??? Oh well.
Would a re-co motor or a swap out from wreckers be more viable than spending more time and $ rebuilding it ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Gary
The rebuild is similar $$'s to re-co motor. They also fit a new head. I know the rebuilder and they are local. Time is not critical--except I am reduced to borrowing my wife's Territory :biggrin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
4.2 turnkey is $20k plus, Duramax $40k--too rich for me especially as I do not tow anything.
Finally saw sense in your comments and got a complete rebuilt swap over, including new head. Also opted for a fuel system rebuilt pump, new injectors etc. Not cheap but probably due soon anyway. SMS Diesel were good to work with and pricing was fair--long motor < $5k and fuel rebuild etc $2,800.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Not much change out of $10k and I still have labour to install. Checking Exceedy clutch while it is apart.
Thanks for the advice and sage head.
If it any consolation mate I spent 14k rebuilding my 3l. Shoulda replaced or upgraded. I'm happy with the result but still it was big $$$.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Gary
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So I have my nicely painted replacement engine--black paint on the block. I can't seem to locate a stamped engine number. Maybe on a flat on the casting rear passenger side( is that left from the back or right from the front :049:) but it is not looking promising.
Help please.