Engine Stopped!

So I have seen many threads about this on the forum, though can't see the specific problem I am facing mentioned.
I was driving in town up a bit of a hill at about 50kph, and the engine stopped.
I had just under half a tank of fuel left from a full main tank put in prior to a round trip to Mudgee of 400+km a few days ago (I guess I am confident the fuel was reasonably good).
I tried restarting, and it did briefly before stopping once more.
A mate got it to fire up using some CO Cleaner though it would not get going again on Diesel.
The NRMA guy that responded, after trying his bottle of butane into the top of the intercooler (I kid not) changed his approach and we got it going the same on butane. still not wanting to run on diesel.
Eventually had it towed home.
Since then, have disconnected the battery overnight, and put it on charge. (Battery tested at 81% prior to overnight charge using mates tester).
Swapped the High Pressure pump relay (brown one under the dash) with the AC relay from under the bonnet - thanks forum users!
Swapped the Ignition Relay from under the dash with one from under the bonnet - as above!
Disconnected the outlet from the primer pump on top of the filter housing and am able to pump diesel out no worries.
Disconnected the return line from the high pressure (injector pump) and cranked over getting diesel from the return.
Disconnected an injector line from the back of the pump and cranked engine - get no diesel coming out at all.

Other things that might be nothing:
Primer pump will get hard after pumping about half a dozen times, but does then lose pressure after a while even if nothing else is done under bonnet.
The security light for NATS doesn't stay on while cranking. It flashes as normal when the car is locked, and stops flashing when the ignition is on.

This afternoon I am hoping to get a scan tool onto it and check for codes which might help.
In the meantime, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

What engine is it

It is a 3.0L direct injection (ZD30)
Has 190,000km

I have the same issue but already put Gscan on it and no codes, can start on aerostat but willl not keep running on diesel.
have changed pressure relief on fuel rail, next step is pump or injectors

If it was a 4.2 I'd say try the nats delete but I'm assuming the 3.0 is a totally different beast.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shaunfell1985

I have the same issue but already put Gscan on it and no codes, can start on aerostat but willl not keep running on diesel.
have changed pressure relief on fuel rail, next step is pump or injectors

---

I had a 0706 code and a another one for the crank angle sensor (0407 possibly - cannot remember exactly).
Following the 0706 code through the shop manual troubleshooting process, it ends up at "Replace Injector Pump"
This one is not common rail, so slightly different to yours I suspect.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 0-TJ-0

If it was a 4.2 I'd say try the nats delete but I'm assuming the 3.0 is a totally different beast.

---

I did read a few posts about NATS, and was hopeful I would see a code for that when we scanned.
No such luck. And I believe you are right, cannot bypass NATS on a 3.0L

By pass the fuel filter using an inline Z14 type filter instead. This will rule out the filter head being knackered. Which does happen on these. Remove the air flow meter and clean it or better, swap it out from another working vehicle.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GU Grover

It is a 3.0L direct injection (ZD30)
Has 190,000km

---

Buy yourself an Ecu-Talk

TD which do you go off for accuracy as the RPM is shown at 752 and the tacho looks like 400?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PeeBee

TD which do you go off for accuracy as the RPM is shown at 752 and the tacho looks like 400?

---

Marks start at 500 so looks about right

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by threedogs

Marks start at 500 so looks about right

---

Sorry didnt pick that up

An update on this one, so that others might benefit from my woes...

I have replaced the injector pump with a reco unit from Bailey's Diesel - be it good or bad, that was what the budget extended to.

When the old pump was removed, there was an oversight - locking the scissor gear in place to prevent it from springing back. We should have found TDC and put a bolt into the scissor gear through the inspection hole on the front of the engine. I did mark the gear, the scissor gear and the housing by the scissor gear so before installing the new pump, I was able to get it back to what should have been the correct position.

Getting the scissor gear back to correct position involved lots of swearing, two screwdrivers and a lot of holding the tongue in just the right spot - one screwdriver to lever the outer ring of the scissor gear, and the other jammed in the scissor gear through the vacuum pump hole to prevent it springing back as I grabbed another tooth on top. Once in place and held with the screwdriver in the vacuum pump hole, carefully get the injector pump gear and slide it into place. The injector pump gear can only attach to the pump flange in one position as the bolts are slightly off square. This ensures the pump is timed to the engine.
In theory the timing is spot on, as nothing moved from when I took the pump out, and all marks were lined up.

When I finally started the engine, I was very disturbed by the fact it would not rev over 1000rpm. Ran rough and was blowing white smoke - all pointed to a timing issue...an idea supported by two mechanics I had at hand.
So I embarked on a process of turning the engine over manually until I could see timing marks on the cam shaft, scissor gear and injector pump gear and TDC on the balancer. What I found after two days of periodic turning - all timing marks lined up exactly as they should. No timing issue.
The next step was to pump the primer on the top of the fuel filter and then try and rev the engine. This is certainly something I should have tried before manually turning the engine over, and did have some success. It appeared to be a fuel supply problem.
I bypassed the main filter, installing a 12V lift pump (Goss pump from SuperCheap) and a temporary inline filter.
This solved my problem allowing enough fuel for the engine to run as it should. It appears there was a restriction in the main filter/housing which probably led to the failure of my injector pump in the first place, and now prevented it from running as it should.

Now I need to put some better filtration on and ensure there are not restrictions.