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Looking for advice, images etc. about connecting gas plumbing to a camper trailer.
Is copper pipe the way to go? Silver solder the connections.
My intention is to have a bayonet fitted at the front near the gas bottles and another at the rear, next to the slide out stove.
Defietely copper, silver soldered and saddles everywhere
might want to wrapt some elect tape where the sabble go
use gal or coated saddled stainless or alloy pop rivets
2%siver solder should be fine and easier to use,
need pics wnen finished, krrp cooper well tucked up so it
cant get caught up on anything. what size copper are you running 1/2"
or 3/4" ?????
Thanks for the input TD.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I will run the tube along the chassis rail so it should be tucked away from danger.
Once I get the trailer in my possession I will get under and have a good look at options.
1/2 will be enough for the stove but I want to leave an option for gas hot water in the future so maybe 3/4 as I believe you have to have enough supply for each appliance connected.
This is all part of our preparation to do the Lap.
Pictures will be forthcoming.
Have never seen 3/4" copper in an RV situation, suspecy it would be overkill.
My preference is for stainless braided hose, but there are regulations about in what circumstance you can or should use fixed or flexible pipes. Suggest you may need to get a gas installation to more than a single appliance signed off with a gas certificate to be legal,& covered by insurance, so seek advice from a gasfitter who knows RV regs first. (Try your local caravan repair joint) OR only run a bottle to a single appliance using a braided gas hose.You could have a bottle for each appliance & run a separate braided hose to each & be legal & not need a gas certificate.
Good advice Cuppa.
This is all part of our preparation for the Lap and I am learning on the run.
I have 2 bottle holders on the trailer so 1 to each would be doable.
I am not even sure we will go with the solar water.
A local gas fitter quoted 450 - 500 to install. This may well be worth it to keep the insurers happy.
He said the bayonets are $150 each x 2, so his labour was cheap I guess.
There is a reason why gas fitters are licenced and they are held accountable to the law for compliance with the codes and regs - go the licenced path with gas would be my recommendation, but by all means have a system sketched out regards functionality for him in advance so you ensure you get what you want and its a safe system, built for purpose. I would have thought 3/8" would be about as big as you would want as gas pressures are a lot higher than say water as an example. And certainly get it well mechanically protected from stones and debris, some the gas fitter can do and some you can afterwards.
No brainer IMHO... and not a bad price... have something go wrong with an un-certified install in a camp ground or national park or whatever and your looking at liability about the same size as the national debt and your insurer will bail so fast he'll be further away than Ghandis first shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mc4by
Good advice on the install and using a certified gas fitter.
I want to design the setup and source the pieces to ensure the best price possible.
I like the suggestion of protecting the install after the fitter has done his work @PeeBee
$150 for a bayonet sounds an awful lot, but may be in the ball park if it includes pipework etc. https://www.northernrv.com.au/produc...t-gas-bayonet/
You could save quite a bit by having just one bayonet, & just plugging in one or the other appliance at a time.
FWIW when I fitted out our bus I ran the gas lines myself, including making holes in bodywork, protecting them with grommets etc & securing the lines with brackets & then took it to a gasfitter to connect to bottle reg & appliance. Saved a fair bit by doing so. (Did the same with 240v electrics too). Just have to find a gasfitter willing to do this, some wont want a bar of it, & others will be happy not to have to do the 'shit' part of the job.
With camper trailers the rules & regs are different if cooking is outside to a caravan or motorhome where cooking is inside. Many gasfitters will not be familiar with the RV specific rules & you pay for their time to look them up & then because they are not sure they can go overboard at your expense to make sure they have covered their arse. I our bus the chap insisted I had to get a permanent sticker made saying something about curtains must be tied back when using stove, even though there were no curtains in the location. This is why I suggested going to a local caravan repair place, they will either employ a gasfitter or subby out to a gasfitter who will be familiar with RV rules & regs.
@Cuppa great idea about doing the layout myself and paying just for the soldering. A nice cashy or carton might get it done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
The link is helpful and I do believe the cost was bayonet fitted. Then the small cost of the tubing.
I will update asap. Get the trailer next week I hope and gassed soon after.
It may be different in WA, and also different rules for camper trailers, but I do know that adding gas into a vehicle not originally fitted by the manufacturer requires inspection and sign-off by a VASS engineer. There were two guys lined up in the street when I was getting my engine upgrade inspected, and they had converted 10 seat passenger vehicles into campervans with kitcheneete's etc. For me, the VASS engineer inspected the installation plus the receipts for any components as part of the upgrade - no idea if they are that thorough in WA.
@PeeBee I believe in W.A. you have worked tagged and a worksheet provided for your records. I will make sure I know for sure though, thanks for the heads up on that.