2013 ZD30 CRD temperature rising when towing in heat

The other day when towing camper trailer 1200kg in 40 degree heat temperature was rising quite quickly to 110 degrees (on scangauge) on long hills. It was very hot outside and wasn't even cooling quickly on the downhill.

Car has only 60k on the clock. 3 inch exhaust. egr block. dawes and needle valve. Boost max 16 PSI.

When not towing temp will sit on 86 to 92 depending on outside temp and load.

Is this normal? The factory gauge got a little over halfway. Is it possible the scangauge was giving an incorrect reading in the heat?

Pretty much exactly what mine used to do... Trailer was maybe a tad heavier at up to 1500 Kg... but similar air temps and terrain in WA would get me almost exactly the same temps on the Scangauge and Dash Indicator.

With mine it depends a lot on how I drive when I'm towing - especially when the weather is hot. Going up hill my EGTs increase rapidly, and if I don't drop a gear to lower the EGTs, eventually my water temp also increases.

Look at your EGTs - drop a gear - keep the revs up - and see how that goes.

IMO working an engine (CRD), solid hauling would be interesting what EGTs you are experiencing when hitting ECT 100-110 DegC?

I consider if you doing high EGT hauling at 80% plus load your engine is going to work hard and get hot (both ECT/EGT). I run higher boost(26psi), but earlier on when I could first monitor ECT/EGT/% load, with ECU remap running max boost 21psi with a 1000 - 1200kg tow (total 4.5T), never hit 100 deg C, guess I start to change down on steep climbs when my EGT start to rise above 600-650 DegC. Measurements using both EDS Scan gauge, UltraGauge and VDO EGT/Boost gauges.

I always keep an eye on exhaust gas temperatures and change gears down and keep revs up. Exhaust gas temp I could keep right down to 400 or 500 degrees easily but the engine temp was hot even when exhaust was not. I would hate to tow something heavy I just don't think it would have coped.

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Originally Posted by stinno

I always keep an eye on exhaust gas temperatures and change gears down and keep revs up. Exhaust gas temp I could keep right down to 400 or 500 degrees easily but the engine temp was hot even when exhaust was not. I would hate to tow something heavy I just don't think it would have coped.

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In that case it could be a coolant system problem / blockage or a fan clutch.

I'd check the radiator for blockages and get a pressure check to confirm. Also confirm that the clutch fan operates. It also would be worth replacing the coolant, if it's not been done for a while. My 2014 never overheats when towing anything, including other Patrols, my camper trailer, or 5mtr boat.

I was thinking of flushing radiator, replacing thermostat with high flow and new coolant.

Fan seems to be okay. Patrol only has 60k on the clock. Is there an easy way to be sure the clutch fan is operating correctly?

Personally I don't consider yours to be overheating or at least only minor but it is hard to compare circumstances.

It is my experience that in the modern metals technology Rad Flushes do bugger all.
If you do suspect the Rad internals (which I wouldn't at this age and K's) getting the Rad removed, tanks off and the core professionally cleaned is the way to go

If your gut feel is something isn't right I would be looking at cleaning the bottom 1/4 of the Rad fins which is quite difficult to access in the truck so pull the sucker out, which will also tick the new coolant box.
If you want to change the thermo then this is also the time to do that.

Fan blades inspect for cracks where the blade meets the hub.
I doubt the viscous clutch is failing but best way to rule it out is replace or drain/refill (see threads on here).
Most last well into the 100 to 150K range or more

IMHO probably the best "cooling" fix might well be to raise the Boost Pressure... 16 on a Dawes rig sounds low to me

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Originally Posted by the evil twin

IMHO probably the best "cooling" fix might well be to raise the Boost Pressure... 16 on a Dawes rig sounds low to me

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Yeah raise the boost as high as it will go before hitting limp mode. These motors will happily do 25psi. The turbo wont like going any further than that though.

For towing / hauling max boost stock ECU 16-17psi may go higher but do as mudski mentioned, raise max boost as high as possible without limp. You can set max boost with needle closed (max spool) then set spool to suit

Could spend $750 + postage (approx $790 all up) get ECU remap run max boost 20-22psi / AFR 20:1 and it will love to haul and reduced EGTs.

By the way if you do EGTs 400-500 hauling/tow, that is sooo good. I would do similar EGTs sight climbing 60-75% eng load w/tow. Depends where you are taking EGTs from also.

Recommend also to check coolant sys.