Install/Upgrade to 4" Snorkel (recessed) and new Pod Air Box

Replacing my 3" Safari snorkel with a 4" SS recessed snorkel and will also install a new airbox (w/K&N 9" pod filter).

Getting tools together to cut out 4" clearance hole thru inner guard and also the elongated hole req'd in the guard for placement of recessed snorkel. Might buy an air operated "Body (panel) Saw" to open out the entry holes.



Aluminium template is provided with the air box, that can be secured/bolted in place against inner guard and can be used as a guide to cut / enlarge the box entry hole. Yes could use hole saw set up but don't have suitable size. Need to also cut out a section of the radiator shroud/cowl as well.

Any one used a body saw for panel cutting and how do they finish off job?

Could buy a nibbler but thought the body saw may be a good tool option and produce less metal corrosive chips/swarf that could prove difficult to remove.

Watching this with interest, as I'll be doing the same in new year.
Bidja. Have a look at MudRunnerTD 's post #429. It might give you some idea .
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post764801



http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/07/284.jpg

Saw that post, sound as she performs but don"t want to pop my flare though....

Like this concept demonstrator that Darren stumbled across (snorkel spotting)..haha.

We’ve got one of these if either of you need to borrow if ever passing through @Bidja & @Hodge, AB had good success on his snorkel efforts I believe mates.
http://www.turnerprecisionengineerin...tachments.html



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nibblers are often used for this job. Thanks for the offer Mark, maybe an excuse to drop in for a while and catch up when I get all the bits together mate if suits.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bidja

Saw that post, sound as she performs but don"t want to pop my flare though....

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Yeah i stuffed around and struggled for a couple ofhours before i popped the flare. It opened it right up and made the job 10 times easier. Pop the flare. Even if you break the clips they are cheap.

I used a set of yellow, green and red tin snips to cut the recess by hand.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Yeah i stuffed around and struggled for a couple ofhours before i popped the flare. It opened it right up and made the job 10 times easier. Pop the flare. Even if you break the clips they are cheap.

I used a set of yellow, green and red tin snips to cut the recess by hand.

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Thought you popped the flare when you were in close proximity to a neighboring a bull bar?

Good job with the snips there mate.

Buy the way, checked out Supercheap for lip seal removal hook tool(front inner axle seal), was going to make one out of 3mm plate, but they sent me an email yesterday and said they hadn't seen me for a while and gave me $10 credit voucher for use by COB today. So just then, went online and bought one from them $13 (sweet as).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bidja

Thought you popped the flare when you were in close proximity to a neighboring a bull bar?

Good job with the snips there mate.

Buy the way, check out Supercheap for lip seal removal hook tool(front inner axle seal), was going to make one out of 3mm plate, but they sent me an email yesterday and said they hadn't seen me for a while and gave me $10 credit voucher for use by COB today. So just then, went online and bought one from them $13 (sweet as).

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Bloody @AB is a hoon. Nah i popped that flare half way through the job in frustration cause i simply could get the 4" in. Made a huge differences

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Bloody @AB is a hoon. Nah i popped that flare half way through the job in frustration cause i simply could get the 4" in. Made a huge differences

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Mill from Millweld uses the "flexi duct" as solid is difficult (lots of job time), to install solid pipe thru inner guard void. I will be going solid pipe section with silicon bend to airbox.

Gathering up the bits and pieces for the 4" induction upgrade job. Now have:

the Body Saw for cutting thing up,

http://airtoolsandmore.com.au/tools/...ht8l17hl3dlkn5


4" Safari Ram Hd.

httphttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENU...12505756079://

K&N 9"Pod Filter:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-K-N-...h/221888546922

Air Box thru FB (similar to Fatz) $365 posted.

Only now waiting on my Fabwitz 4" SS snorkel (recessed) thru FB (just being welded up today). With solid ducting thru to air box with silicon joiners. And a replacement(exchange) Fabwitz 3" SS pipe from airbox to turbo (with 3 ports - MAF sensor, needle vac line & PCV return).

How is he determining the correct bends etc for the intake to the Turbo? my airbox was 4" in and Out so i stayed 4" all the way to the reducer ion the Turbo directly.

This airbox also is 4" in/out with the box spigot tubes being inline with each other, so the hole thru guard (4" x 90 deg bend clearance) will control position. There is a room constraint for CRD so a 4-3" reducer elbow at box outlet and the 3" SS pipe to turbo with silicon reducer to turbo inlet. The box being similar to Fatz design of which Corey (Fabwitz) has made pipes for and will make pipe a little longer so that I can trim length back to suit as needed. I will have to modify the fit up a bit myself. Should be OK.

Current setup Fabwitz 3" airbox (round) and piping with JT cooler.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Yeah i stuffed around and struggled for a couple ofhours before i popped the flare. It opened it right up and made the job 10 times easier. Pop the flare. Even if you break the clips they are cheap.

I used a set of yellow, green and red tin snips to cut the recess by hand.

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Darren, finally got all my bits to do snorkel and airbox install. Have finally had success in removing heat shield over turbo to replace gasket between turbo and dump pipe and wrap. Waiting on some wurth nuts.

Can easly cut 125mm hole in inner guard (next to airbox), but what did you do for the second panel skin hole to suit 4" elbow to snorkel straight duct?

Problem gone away - job done

Now with all bits on hand, have commenced the install of the 4" thru air box / 9" K&N pod filter (post #11) and the 4" fwd facing recessed SS snorkel (with 4" Safari Air Ram Hd).

There are many install methods and product types to do satisfy this install and they all have their limitations.

This thread details the method that I adopted as a DIY project and is provided for information purposes only for those interested. I will document as I progress.

The available space in my eng bay is limited having JT TMIC(606x300x76mm core). Have to shift my catch can (that was under induction pipe near air box to turbo) and a marine rotary switch that I use to select either or both aux batteries (vehicle or in tow) and need to buy a smaller one and relocate it to allow for relocation of the catch can.
At the same time, removing dump pipe as the gasket from turbo to dump is leaking, will wrap dump while out and now just waiting on Wurth nuts. Was a job to remove the heat shield, one bolt had ceased due to heat.

Just completed the cutting of 5" holes thru the inner guard and second skin above wheel arch.

OEM nominal holes size dia - inner guard 95mm / second skin above wheel arch 85mm.

Used a 128mm (5”) hole saw.

Inner guard - I used the hole saw to cut a disc out of 12mm plywood and centrally tek screw fixed this to the inner panel and was used to guide the hole saw and cut first panel 5” dia hole.
Note: Position the tek screws on a PCD so head clear the hole saw.

Second skin above wheel arch – used two of the above 12mm plywood discs, placed them up inside the hole saw. Then from some 30mm pine, made a 84mm dia disc/dowel (ie: clearance on existing 85mm dia hole in second skin above wheel arch). Slide this dowel piece with a central hole drilled, up inside hole saw to rest against the plywood discs and this was used to locate and guide the hole saw thru to cut existing 85mm hole out to 128mm (5”) dia.

Extreme care is needed doing this as this panel is not flat and can cause the hole saw to bite in aggressively and grab. Take it very cautiously, I cut out the last 1cm with an air operated body saw, snips or hack saw blade would work.

Note the disc / dowel thickness is to allow for cutter depth clearance so that the hole saw can do its job and protrude far enough to engage with the hole to be enlarged. You could use, only the appropriate length of 84mm dia pilot dowel piece, but I used the larger ply discs as well, to protect the hole saw from the discarded panel material and to help contain the discarded disc material in a confined space within hole saw.

Trial Fit 4" x 90 deg elbow - Found that 5” hole provided for easy fitting of the 4”x 90deg elbow and fitted well within the guard cavity. I don’t see any difficulty in the fitting the airbox or the solid SS 3” duct (thru inner guard cavity) to snorkel).

Couple of images are out of order.

Best feeling cutting ridiculous holes in your car isn't it...lol

Still getting over it and is just the beginning. Was waiting for the hole saw to hook up and ram the back of my hand down on to the vertical folded edge of the aux battery tray.

Just building up to this one, have decided to sleep on it first and check again... haha and more fun to be had.

Nice work mate. That hole saw jig worked well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Nice work mate. That hole saw jig worked well.

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Initially thought of pop riveting a steel strap/flat bar across the existing holes with a drilled center to locate and centralize the hole saw but the timber jig & fixture worked very well and provided for a positive feel.

Some preliminary pics of my trial fit out of new 4" snorkel / 9" pod airbox and the 3"ducting to turbo inlet. Had to modify the radiator shroud to fit box and to lift it so that the box can drain water to its inlet end. All fits well with the JT cooler. Will write up in more detail later on.

Looking like a nice neat job mate. Like the look of the airbox too.

First time journey, poking along but satisfied with progress and need to juggle activity with paddock duties.

The 4" thru airbox is made by small time self employed boiler maker. Does good work. Builds these for TD42 and ZDs, mine (CRD) has the TD jobbie x 330mm long, fitted up well with mod to radiator shroud and has good end clearance between inlet end face to base of pod filter. Uses a 9" K&N (KNRE-0870) pod filter. Supplies box only(filter not included) for $340.

Finished install of Airbox and straight 4" solid duct from box to snorkel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hodge

Watching this with interest[/IMG]

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Sent you a PM mate.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bidja

Finished install of Airbox and straight 4" solid duct from box to snorkel.

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Very neat mate, I cut a square in mine, painted cuts, no pinch weld, job done...lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AB

Very neat mate, I cut a square in mine, painted cuts, no pinch weld, job done...lol

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Came across an old thread of yours doing the square hole, could be wrong here, think you used an angle grinder. Recon I would have lost it and come straight out thru the outer guard..lol

Was easy with the wooden jig/followers I made to guide the 5" hole saw. Used the body saw to cut the elongated hole in guard and was so fast. Only needed a touch up with a file. Will get around to posting up.

With the procharge stage3 h/f turbo, this 4" snorkel and pod airbox has made such a difference, improved spool and really notice ability for torque to hold low down, especially 4&5th as was a bit laggy prior. Hear the induction air full on rushing thru Jonny Tig cooler and seems much easier on turbo as cruise boost runs lower especially at lower eng loads. Even improved the all round fuel usage. Doing tune on rollers next week maybe running a bit richer.

Pleased, just keep the window up with wife in pass seat, tomorrow will be her first run should be interesting.

Now the 4" induction upgrade complete, went to ECPT (Tuggerah, NSW) last week, put it on rollers and had tune 08 CRD.

Have been progressively doing build up(last 15months). Stock eng except:

NADS
Remap
Procharge stage 3 h/f turbo
Tillix/needle (Max B 26psi)/13.5"Hg VNT actuator
Jonny Tig cooler
Ben Lipscombe - 9" K&N Pod / 4" thru airbox (3" to turbo)
4" fwd facing snorkel w/safari air ram
3" exhaust turbo back w/ muffler and cat

Had a couple of tunes along the way, latest being after install of JT cooler and 4" induction.
Running 33" m/t

Leaned it off from AFR19:1 back to 20:1, could have put more fuel but this has provided a good reliable result:
136rwkw and 512 N-m/4th gear.

Dyno results attached, my CRD "Blue Trace" / the "Red Trace" is for comparison purposes of a stock 2010 CRD on 33s and 3" exhaust on the same dyno.

Achieving 20psi Boost @ 1900-2000 rpm, max B 26psi @ 2200rpm (good to drive).

With the upgrade to JT cooler and 4" induction gave me an extra 70 N-m. From 378 to 450N-m and with the tune last week now producing 512 N-m. The trip back home from Tuggerah, NSW via Sydney (400km). fuel usage 12.5l/100km.

@0-TJ-0 @threedogs

Came across a post selling that airbox 4" in and out pod style air box + K&N pod (same as I fitted). Maybe still available.

PRICE AND PRICE CONDITIONS: $250 + post box only or $300 + post for box and pod

https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/sa...-n-pod.407157/

I paid: box $365 posted + $90 for pod K&N

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bidja

Now the 4" induction upgrade complete, went to ECPT (Tuggerah, NSW) last week, put it on rollers and had tune 08 CRD.

Have been progressively doing build up(last 15months). Stock eng except:

NADS
Remap
Procharge stage 3 h/f turbo
Tillix/needle (Max B 26psi)/13.5"Hg VNT actuator
Jonny Tig cooler
Ben Lipscombe - 9" K&N Pod / 4" thru airbox (3" to turbo)
4" fwd facing snorkel w/safari air ram
3" exhaust turbo back w/ muffler and cat

Had a couple of tunes along the way, latest being after install of JT cooler and 4" induction.
Running 33" m/t

Leaned it off from AFR19:1 back to 20:1, could have put more fuel but this has provided a good reliable result:
136rwkw and 512 N-m/4th gear.

Dyno results attached, my CRD "Blue Trace" / the "Red Trace" is for comparison purposes of a stock 2010 CRD on 33s and 3" exhaust on the same dyno.

Achieving 20psi Boost @ 1900-2000 rpm, max B 26psi @ 2200rpm (good to drive).

With the upgrade to JT cooler and 4" induction gave me an extra 70 N-m. From 378 to 450N-m and with the tune last week now producing 512 N-m. The trip back home from Tuggerah, NSW via Sydney (400km). fuel usage 12.5l/100km.

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Old post but...Jesus John thats pretty impressive. Gotta be happy with that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

Old post but...Jesus John thats pretty impressive. Gotta be happy with that.

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She rolls pretty well. Have had some further improvement, especially low down torque, resulting from adjustment to the VNT actuator rod length (reduced "Hg) to hold
the vanes closed longer so the turbine spins up quicker. Was laggy 4&5th low down due to larger exhaust wheel(Procharge H/F turbo).

Currently achieving boost 25 psi all gears around 1950 rpm (all out by 2100rpm_26-27psi). Also been trialing max spool (using Tillix only with needle disconnected) and a throttle control unit that has removed a lot of throttle lag (caused by drive by wire_CRD), linear spool. Different dyno (reads a bit lower than previous), but note low down torque improvement_ from 250 to 300 N-m(max nom 530N-m). Always adjusting actuator rod but so close now and will soon go back on rollers, may be a little more fuel early on. Looking at FMIC (still a 600x300mm T&F).

It will be interesting to see a before and after dyno run with a FMIC.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bidja

@0-TJ-0 @threedogs

Came across a post selling that airbox 4" in and out pod style air box + K&N pod (same as I fitted). Maybe still available.

PRICE AND PRICE CONDITIONS: $250 + post box only or $300 + post for box and pod

https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/sa...-n-pod.407157/

I paid: box $365 posted + $90 for pod K&N

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Thanks for keeping an eye out mate. Patrol is on hold for a bit while i do some much needed home maintenance unfortunately.