Hey guys I just got onto a S/H DTS kit for my old TD just wondering where everybody has run their water feed and returns
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Hey guys I just got onto a S/H DTS kit for my old TD just wondering where everybody has run their water feed and returns
Hey mate run your feed from the bottom corner plug LHS of the block there's a bung there and run your drain to the thermostat housing.
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You'll need a t piece for the thermostat housing where heater hose goes in too
Or you use a GU housing which has the threaded port there ready to use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deano2506
The turbo coolant return should not go to the heater outlet on the thermostat housing. That outlet is on the same high pressure side of the water pump as the block drain plug that feeds the turbo. That's why it's used for the heater feed.
The return should go to the low pressure side of the water pump like the factory turbo does. That way you get a high to low pressure circuit happening and a much faster thermo-syphoning effect when you shut down.
That's good information.
I've got a gq with a dts kit i put in myself.
The kit comes with the t piece for heater hose.
Where exactly does it go on a gu?
In the port shown on outlet of the housing...Quote:
Originally Posted by Deano2506
Attachment 76329
Where it should go is in the bin so you don't get tempted to use heater hoses.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deano2506
Teflon braided lines and fittings can be bought from eBay and homemade to exact length with -8AN sizes. They will greatly outlast rubber heater hoses.
This is my homemade coolant return.. but no longer with that turbo.
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Attachment 76330
Thanks for that mate,think I'll change to that setup.
I've allways been using the t piece for heater hose provided with the kit.
Haven't had any probs with it but now you've brought this to my attention,it makes sense.
Have a good one!
Nice looking setup mate.
The dts kit did come with good quality braided hoses,which I'm using.
I didn't know about the gu setup...till now.
Think I'll be changing to it.
I'm in tassie,so pretty chilli down here....should i see much difference in coolant temps if i change it?
Cheers,dean
You shouldn't see any difference in engine temps.
Mine is actually a GQ engine in a GU. It's a '96 Safari factory TD42T imported from Japan.
Thanks mate thats exactly what i was thinking, i did consider running my feed from there to begin with but the the ones iv seen pictures of look ugly with all the fittings needed to do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
Does anyone have a picture of the location of the water feed on the block?
Cheers
Bottom right of this pic you can see the feed.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2018/09/89.jpg
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Thanks alot mate
Hey @jff45
I'm looking at turboing mine soon,
What brand is your exhaust manifold? Does it come with that heat shield?
Sorry to go off topic.
Cheers
The manifold is tigged steam pipe with the T3 flange welded smack in the middle between 3 & 4. Makes it really easy to work on/swap out the turbo and I have direct access to the engine block drain plug when changing coolant.Quote:
Originally Posted by JackoGQYoot
Only really minor issues were that I had to lengthen the exhaust by 100mm and use an elbow for the turbo oil drain.
The heatshield is the original from the TB45E engine slightly modified. Easy to MIG weld tabs onto the mild steel manifold for the heatshield.
Here's a pic with the old HT18 turbo on it. After that it had a 16G Mamba, now it has a P4x4 18G. All turbos easily swapped out without removing the manifold. You can see the easy access to the drain plug at the rear.
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Attachment 76366
Thanks a lot for that mate. How did you like the mamba turbo? Are 18g or 16g the way to go you reckon?
I have a few more questions on the gq forum also.
Cheers
In my non-expert opinion, the Mamba 16G is a great little turbo fr the money. When I bought it new a few years ago it was less than $1000 delivered to my door. The P4x4 18G was more than twice that but it does have a genuine MHI CHRA.
I recently rebuilt the Mamba, although it didn’t need it, and used the latest twin oil hole thrust plate from Mamba. The rebuild kit was $80 from memory. I then had it balanced by a friend at over 100k revs. It needed very little taken off the compressor wheel nut which means the turbine shaft and compressor wheel are pretty well balanced by Mamba before assembly.
The 16G is a good choice if you’re happy to stay under 150kw and don’t want to spend your time over 3000 rpm where nothing much happens anyway with these engines.
Here’s a comparison dyno graph of those 2 turbos. I had the Mamba on the dyno after I changed to a modified 11mm pump. I then had the P4x4 on the same dyno, same operator and same pump.
You can see how the Mamba gets moving quicker but the P4x4 has longer legs and a more consistent power output at higher revs.
They are basically the same power because it was the same pump with no adjustment changes done.
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Attachment 76371
Attachment 76394Attachment 76395 Ended up making my water return into the radiator hose seems to work pretty mint.
Thanks for all the help guys