Please Help.....Calling all carby experts!!!!!!!!

hey everyone, just wanted to ask about carby's. I have 88 4.2 ltr. It has a venturi carby. I have had the carby rebuilt and spent $$$ on doing this. It is still having flooding problems and I have been told it has an airlock and I need an emulsion block. I haven't been able to find anything and don't really want to spend more, but need it to run more effciently. I was talking to someone who owned one and said they did a conversion to a webber. He told me that it wasn't hard at all and brought the conversion kit from repco, and then made his own air filter using the nissan one as a template. Is there anyone else out there at all that knows anything about either of these issues.... Please help!

sounds to me that the float level is not set or the needle and seat are faulty! OR the float has a hole in it!!

I'm no carby expert, I've never even owned a car with a carby, but here is some information I found on another forum.

1st you need a redline adapter # 10-220 it fits both nissan and toyota

2nd get some 1.25 metric tread x 8mm rod or sacrificial bolts you'll need one stud or rod 80mm, 2x bolts and you might have to grind or cut the heads so they sit inside the adapter plate, and 1x30mm extension to be welded to the bent stud get some new nuts and washers too.

3rd get an elongated nut about 10-15mm long that fits to the throttle shaft you'll need a piece of rod or stud to extend the shaft(put a tack weld to the nut and extension to stop it ever coming loose) to put the nissan throttle actuator (the 1/2 round for the cable) grind the extension so the actuator fits and is in position and fixed.

4th do a test fitting off the car, if it's all good, fit the bent stud first then fit the plate with bolts in pointing upwards and then put in the straight stud/rod tighten the allan bolts up and fit the carb.

5th remove the original throttle cable mount and move it up to the top hole on the manifold (it needs a few minor bends) and fit the cable hook up the auto choke, cut off solenoid and fuel line.

Bobs your uncle it should run it'll need some tuning but good to go.

Tony

x2 on also checking the float, incorrect float level or jammed float will cause flooding....I would be checking that first followed by the needle bent, etc

Hey guys,
thanks so much for the helpful info. So YNOT, by the pics and the instructions, I gather you think the webber is a better option than the emulsion block? All the float, the needle and seat and everything in the carby are apparently rebuilt.

Take it back to them mate, show them how good their handywork is, let them sort it out, after all, that's what you paid them for isn't it?

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Originally Posted by maverick1

Hey guys,
thanks so much for the helpful info. So YNOT, by the pics and the instructions, I gather you think the webber is a better option than the emulsion block? All the float, the needle and seat and everything in the carby are apparently rebuilt.

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That's not my car in the photo's, I just knew where to find the information you were asking for. I prefer EFI on petrol engines.
If you can get the original carby working properly/as it should be, there should be no need to change it for a webber.

Tony

the ferret: It has been back to them already but they are the ones who have said that it should run fine and should have the emulsion block under it.

YNOT: I want to change it to EFI, but not sure where to start. I have been reading about pertronix kit (lobe sensor model) and flame thrower coil. Can ask your opinion on these? Also do you have any suggestions on what I can do with the carby?

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Originally Posted by maverick1

YNOT: I want to change it to EFI, but not sure where to start. I have been reading about pertronix kit (lobe sensor model) and flame thrower coil. Can ask your opinion on these? Also do you have any suggestions on what I can do with the carby?

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Do you mean EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) or EI (Electronic Ignition)?
I have no experience converting from points to electronic but others on here (Paul - Patch697) should be able to help.
My suggestion for the carby - if you can afford it, throw it away! Both of my GQ's have been EFI because I don't like carby's.
If you want to go down this path you will need a complete EFI set up (complete inlet manifold with injectors , throttle body etc, distributor-EFI Patrols had EI, wiring loom and computer, high pressure fuel pump and filter) off a wreck. It would be a big job.

Tony

Put an emulsion block or alloy block under it and THEN take it back to them, they are sposed to be the experts?

I'll have to go and look at mine in the daylight, but if it doesn't have an emulsion block, and works ok, why would maverick 1's?

On the other hand, if they all have them then go get one :-)

Did you take it a carb specialist or a "I can do everything mechanic" ???

A specialist would know more than a jack of all trades mechanic
Jump onto google do a local search to you for a dedicated specialist
Go see them, they will help

You can buy webber conversion kits on evilbay , around the $500 from memory
So you have options,especially in the 2 barrell carb range
XF fords have the 2 barrell and are cheap,just an option

IF its the lack of economy you wont find a cheap to run TB42 wether carb or EFI unfortunately
They are dear to run

As the others said, check the float level and that it doesn't have a hole in it. If you are contemplating changing the carburetor, then don't install a Weber. They are finicky and often expensive. A Holley 350 and adapter plate will be easier and probably a whole loit cheaper. But the smartest move would be to take it to someone who knows about carbys and have them fix it properly. Carbs are generally easy if you are careful. Don't change it until you are out of options.

thanks everyone for your input. I did send it to a specialist. It travelled 400km to get there and taking it back isn't easy. I really don't want to throw it away as I have already spent $$$ so I am trying. I am only beginning to learn this stuff , so could anyone help me check the float level? Will I need anything special to do this?

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Originally Posted by maverick1

thanks everyone for your input. I did send it to a specialist. It travelled 400km to get there and taking it back isn't easy. I really don't want to throw it away as I have already spent $$$ so I am trying. I am only beginning to learn this stuff , so could anyone help me check the float level? Will I need anything special to do this?

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I have attached pages 6-9 from the manual which I hope shows the same carby as yours. If so, follow the bits about setting the float level etc. Let me know if you need more. Mine has EFI so I cannot look at mine to help. It should be relatively easy to check though. Run through the checks here and see if this helps. Good luck and don't be afraid to come back and ask if you need more help.

Thanks so much fixer982. I really appreciate your help.

So have you had a go at it yet? I'm keen to see what caused the problem if you find it.

Sorry fixer... not as yet... I will get to it hopefully this week.

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Originally Posted by fixer982

As the others said, check the float level and that it doesn't have a hole in it. If you are contemplating changing the carburetors, then don't install a Weber. They are finicky and often expensive. A Holley 350 and adapter plate will be easier and probably a whole loit cheaper. But the smartest move would be to take it to someone who knows about carbys and have them fix it properly. Carbs are generally easy if you are careful. Don't change it until you are out of options.

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i dont know if this is the right forum to post this one but i had a problem on my carb. my carburetor leaks and out of adjustment. cant fix it. my dad adviced me to bring it into our mechanic but i want to solve it by meself. please help me.

G'day Maveric1, have you found a solution to your carby problem yet? In the past I've had a few issues with carbies and as a mechanic by trade it used to peev me off when the things wouldn't work properly. I would need to know a little more about your problem to see if I could help.
Let me know if you got it sorted.
Cheers
Brian.

Yep it can be rebuilt but not always properly!
I would say as already mentioned it is a float height issue or a stuck needle and seat dont take much to stick them open just a tiny bit of crud will do it! doubt the block would do much if it is flooding.
dont do the weber! they arent real flash in 4wd's, have a few mates down here who have put them on race cars and they dont like angles alot at all! they also 'breathe' through the main shaft which sucks a tiny bit of mud in and jams the throttle open....only reportin whats happened to others.

Steve.

I know this is late,but if you are still having trouble I would check the fuel pump pressure and the return line to the tank.
Pearcey.