Ok I know there is a lot you will need to do to raise a Gq Td42 by 4 inches, but what is the basics you need to do to have it safe enough until you can afford to do the rest ?
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Ok I know there is a lot you will need to do to raise a Gq Td42 by 4 inches, but what is the basics you need to do to have it safe enough until you can afford to do the rest ?
All of it basically. Springs, shocks, castor correction in 1 form or another, rear control arms for pinion angle correction, space the proportional valve down, break lines, panhard rods and draglink. It'll drive like a complete turd otherwise
Or 2 inch suspension and 2 inch body lift which is the amature hour shit way to do it
So the drop boxes can be done later then if they are needed
Castor correction in 1 form or another, that includes drop boxes, thats the most important part if you want it to actually drive in a straight lineQuote:
Originally Posted by First Pooy
So would dropped radius arms negate the need for drop boxes ?
Yes, because castor correction is built in. Drop boxes are better though.Quote:
Originally Posted by First Pooy
Interesting thanks for the tips so it looks like apart from brake lines it is an all or nothing job and I could of scraped up a couple of grand but not 4 to 5 grand
Doing a 4 inch lift, or anything over two inch really needs the lot to be done. As Bene has stated, you need to do the lot. Your best off saving your coin and doing the lot in one shot. You dont need to spend 4 to 5 grand too. You can, but do you need it. I think I spent maybe 2500$ on mine. It aint the best but it works, and well for the Vic high country.Quote:
Originally Posted by First Pooy
I used Super flex coils, Was told the Patrol will be a boat around corners, its not and the drive it quite nice. Tough Dog 45mm Adjustable shocks, their no Fox shock but again work well for the work I ask of them, Adjustable front and rear panhard rods, drop boxes, adjustable drag link, 10mm longer lower rear control arms, adjustable rear upper arms and extended braided brake line kit. I could have easily spend 5k on that lot. I couldn't justify it at the time, and I'm still pretty happy with my choice.
The shocks are my only gripe, they are massive and I have destroyed the plastic shaft covers twice on the rear shocks as they get caught on the springs. I complained to Tough Dog and it fell on deaf ears, so I had to buy new covers, they sent me new covers via air bag, not protected so they were squashed and already destroyed when I got them. Complained again, fell on deaf ears, again. When money permits, I will bin these, merely because the lack of care from Tough Dog.
Any brand opinions I heard Dobbsons were good but I also heard from a few poeple that they sagged on them, some say Tuff dog is the way to go a can not get a clear story
Tough dog are rubbish..Mudski basiclally wrote that above.
To be honest mate you need to figure out why you want a 4" lift? Where you want to go woth it and why a 2" lift wont get it done. .???
If i had my time again id have bought the best 2" lift money can buy rather than a bigger lift i have to hide from the Police.
If needed cut guards. Nearly every winch truck and Outback Challenge Comp truck is rolling on a 2" lift these days.
The shocks hitting the springs is to an extent, your fault. When it flexxed the wheel thats at full extension has actually moved closer to your front wheels due to control arms moving on their own arc. This drags the shock closer to the spring, eventually coming into contact.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
So how would one correct this? I have longer lower arms.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
Less down travel, a thinner shock or long armsQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Edit
Have you trimmed the bump stop pad?
Remember it issue itself is the amount the diff actually moves from it position at ride height (aka rear steer)
I have the Yota bump stops in. Another issue I found to in the steel bush in the lower mount of the shock is too long, plug I had to space out the shock on the lower mounting pin as the body of the shock was resting on the diff. So after all this the nut is only just full on the thread of the mounting pin. So I had to cut down the metal sleeve in the bush a few mm so the nut had more to grab onto.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
I mean the actual pad that is welded to the diff housing, that needs to be trimmed when you lift anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Ah yeah sorry. Yeah I do remember cutting the rear pads now. Cant remember why I had to, but yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
Ok I think 3 inch will be better for me and I have been told all I need is camber correction bushes is that true or do I still need a drop box?
Its Caster not Camber mate. Caster bushes are rubbish. Drop boxes are way better for caster correction than bushes. You will also need a drag link and brake lines for a 3" lift.Quote:
Originally Posted by First Pooy
Thanks Mudrunner it was just a slip of the finger I meant to wright caster not camber, but it looks like that with the 3 inch lift I will still need a drop box and I did know that you needed longer brake lines and just found out that I need an adjustable drag link,so you won't need adjustable trailing arms as well?
In my opinion. if your going to go 3 inch you your better of going 4inch as your going to be technically illegal and 1 inch over the max allowed is not a lot at all. plus you will find that you will still need an adjustable drag link, adjustable panhard rods plus the rear upper and lower control arms. If you want to do it properly. Or, just buy a decent two kit. 3 inch just seems a waste of time.Quote:
Originally Posted by First Pooy
I have a 3" lift under my GU and its a great height. Enough room to run 35s without too many issues. Doesnt stand out. Enough lift to get the drop boxes in as a 2" lift your stuck with bushes only. You dont need to change rear trailing arms at all on a 3". I would change out the lowers for HD standard length though which i have done. You can get away with standard panards to if you want.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
4" then absolutely do need adjustable panards front and rear and Upper trailing arm adjustment added to the list.
How much flex can you get out of a 2 inch compared to a 4 inch
What ever you want to install on either. It depends on how well you want it to perform, how much fabrication you are willing to do, I like have heaps of flex on my ute. I like it to drive nice too.Quote:
Originally Posted by First Pooy
My Iron-man 4" Lift kit(Coils, shocks, adjustable panhard rods, extended brke lines, castor plates, sway bar links, all rear trailing arms, and abrake proportioning valve bracket) Cost me 2500$ total, because at the 4wd show, one of the guys at the stall accidentally gave me the wrong price.
I used the quote he gave me as proof, and only got charged 2500. I have since installed extended bump-stops, a extra heavy duty roadsafe draglink and tough dog XHD steering damper so that takes it up to about 3200.
I am very happy with my suspension. It has heaps of flex and is more comfortable to ride in than standard. A funny thing is the rear right swaybar link had a bolt come out, and when you plant it in second on a hard corner, the front left wheel comes a good 200mm of the ground!
But because of this I get more flex, so I still havent got it fitted.
The only gripe I have is te rer trailing rms. they are iroman ones and they are SHIT. Never buy them people.
Cheers
Thanks for the info Jacko I was warned off Iron-man because it was said it was cheap crap but maybe some were wrong