I need a socket to remove the front hub, on ebay it says 54mm, and there is heaps for sale but the gregorrys manual says 53 mm. can anyone confirm what I need. Cheers
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I need a socket to remove the front hub, on ebay it says 54mm, and there is heaps for sale but the gregorrys manual says 53 mm. can anyone confirm what I need. Cheers
Save yourself some money in the long run and upgrade to the gu system.
To do that use a brass punch to remove the nuts, then replace them with something like this.
https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/p...0aAo72EALw_wcB
And a tool like this https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/p...8aAiuwEALw_wcB
I wish I had known about the upgrade before I shelled out for the GQ tool and had some locking washers made for around $2 each.
Cheers mate, my mate said the same thing and so bought this kit. Btw thanks for your reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/112568645437
It is 54mm from memory. The tool's available on fleabay for a peanut.Quote:
Originally Posted by mad66
Where does it say 53mm in Gregory's??!!
I'm not following this Craig.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
I used the 54mm socket from ebay to undo the nut & repack the bearings.
Why is it necessary for this upgrade?
What issues do you have in the long run with the stock hub nut locking system?
Mine appears to be fine since repacking years back and once a year or so checking.
GU System??? I think you mean GQ system, my 92 GQ TI runs the same thing and I'm pretty sure its factory fitted not after market or a GU thing.......Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Don't know mate that is the story I got from my mate that is changing the rotors but 53 doesn't sound right to me. that is an offf size. Yeah 54 is the right size. CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by dom14
My issue with the current system is that you replace the washers each time you need to remove the hub. That can be quite often if you get a lot of water, mud and gunk on the swivel, which tends to prematurely destroy the scraper and seal thus allowing water ingress.
I have seen when you follow the manual and torque the hub nut to spec, the nut actually drags the washer tab with it a little bit which weakens the washer tab rendering it unsafe to re-use.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Front-...UAAOSwyWZZOgzm
I was quoted an exorbitant price, locally, for the washers, that is why I had some made.
Thank you for correcting me. It is strange they didn't use that system throughout the range as it is way superior than having to replace locking washers. Mine is a '94.Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
@NissanGQ4.2 Did yours come with auto locking hubs?
@Winnie, didn't you do the axle lock nut upgrade? Or have I given out bullshit advice, cause my memory sucks?
I think I have totally F%$^$^%# up, yet again. In the manual, it shows the two types of hubs, manual and auto locking.
It looks as if the manual hub needs the smaller lock nut to work, and the auto hubs can use the locking ring.
I was actually going to buy the upgrade for myself but it looks as I've wasted @mad66 's money and time.
Hmmm..... I reused the nut, and didn't think it cause any problems down the track.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
I manually adjust it by feeling the drag and play and keep doing it until I get the desired feeling of drag.
I will pull out mine soon and re-do the bearings, and will find out what or if I need to replace the bits and pieces above.
The locking washer not the nut is weakened. The post is amended to make that clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
I have to replace the front brake discs, pads, swivel scraper and seals again, anyway. I was hoping to do the upgrade at the same time, but I think I would need to get auto locking hubs. Waiting for this to be confirmed.
From what I know, I would keep the manual ones, regardless of having to get out of the vehicle to engage and disengage them.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
I used the same locking washer. It would depend how many times you have to do and undo the hubs.
I could be wrong, I just can't see mine being after market or converted by the previous ownerQuote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Yeh mate Auto locking hubs, although they are now converted 2 manual
So I have stuffed up. In @Winnies early pictures of his Patrol it has the manual hubs, which I thought you could upgrade to the locking ring. ( I remember him posting that he had upgraded and I assumed it was just the locking ring). In his later pics it looks like he has fitted the auto hubs. Still hoping I am wrong about that, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
I just don't trust steel that has already been flexed, so I change out the lock washer, each time.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
All is good, from a quick read now, from 95 onward was when the changes to that style, I don't know it matters if its auto hubs or manual. Maybe mine where converted, maybe the TI models had them because they where the top of the line modelQuote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Yep, that makes sense. The RB30 is was supposed to be the cheaper version, or mums taxi.Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
Fuel economic version or so I thought. I'm not sure whether that is the case. When start grunting and revving, it can consume almost the same as TB engines, I think. I've heard TB45, 48's producing 5-6km/L economy, and I've never heard of an RB30 producing 7km/L economy. I bought the RB30 with fuel economy in mind which I now think is a the wrong approach there is no heavy 4WD that is fuel economical. Of course, there are other advantages with RB30, 'cos the engine's widely available, as well as turbo gear, etc. For example the cylinder head I have on mine now was given to me for pretty much for nothing which I rebuilt myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
I've heard about guys converting to manual from auto after having trouble with auto hubs engaging when it shouldn't, so I avoided manual to auto conversion, even though a guy offered me his auto's in exchange for my manuals. I've been just cautious.Quote:
Originally Posted by NissanGQ4.2
I've never had any issues with old Jackaroo auto hubs, and back then I thought all front 4WD hubs were auto.
Sad thing is they are wasting there money converting their auto's to manual, even if they have trouble its only a case of ripping a few bits out of the auto hubs and they are manual anyway and still probably stronger then aftermarket hubs. 95% are probable trouble free 2 just people just don't know how 2 use themQuote:
Originally Posted by dom14
I actually think the converted auto hubs are better, because you need a socket to change them over. Its too easy for mischievous fingers to flick the manual ones over.
True.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Hopefully, it won't do much damage and I am likely to notice it from the funny noise/feeling from the front wheels when the swivel hub is engaged. 'I've heard we are supposed to engage it once every six months or so to ensure it gets lubricated itself by turning(if it doesn't get used much).
The later GQs run the newer system, mine has been running the 54mm nuts since 1989 without issue
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Thanks for the replys guys. We have changed the rotors and pads and all good. the gu kit is still on its way and will go to that system when I change out the front bearings after RWC. didn't quite have the dollars to do the whole lot in one hit which has pissed me off but that is how it goes.
Good decision... the GU bearing pre-load setup is heaps better than those stupid tab washers IMHOQuote:
Originally Posted by mad66
So I didn't stuff up ? The egg ring, manual locking gear and spacer still fit with the locking ring?
Yep. just got them in. It is just a round nut with a lock washer that goes over the top of the round nut and locks onto the shaft where the cut outs are then held in place with two small screws.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
This pic will give a better idea for those interested.
Attachment 74002