DIY Tyre Repair - Plug & Patch

It had been a long time since I had done a tyre repair, apart from a couple of plugs, so after checking a slow leak and finding a puncture, thought I would do a plug and patch, and to familiarize myself before a trip.
Wanted also to test out a bead breaker I had made for the Kangaroo Jack, and take a few pic's to share.

First pic is of the offending screw.
Mark the area around the puncture so you don't lose it.

Attachment 4646

Seeing it's a screw, simply screw it out.

Attachment 4647

For a plug the first thing to do is file or ream the hole out with the supplied rasp, twisting as you do.

Attachment 4648

Then thread the plug onto the needle half way and insert about two thirds of the remaining length into the hole.
Edit: If you don't want to lose air have your needle already threaded and ready to insert.

Attachment 4649

Then cut off, leaving a few mills.

So far there is still air in the tyre, so just add air to the correct pressure to keep you going until you get to a repair shop, or your camp for the night, to repair with a patch.
In this case I will continue the repair in the shed.

Edit: I have been informed that plugging may do more damage to the tyre belts and may not be legal in some states, and also 'why bother if I am going to patch it anyway'.
My reasoning was; this tyre is getting near its 'use-by' anyway. (a spare-spare)
I wanted to simulate a possible scenario.
I think 'it had a screw in it, now it has a plug' (and patch)

I never leave home without my plugs, touch wood I haven't had to use yet, good pictorial mate

The next shot shows the bead breaker attachment for the jack. Some folks will use the whole foot of the jack, with varying success. I believe crushing the whole tyre profile down would have to damage the steel radials.

Attachment 4650

Remember to remove your valve before breaking the bead.

Attachment 4652

Here I have placed the jack/bead-breaker under a solid part of the bull bar and the purposefully arced foot of the breaker as close as possible to the edge of the rim. Also lashed the jack to the bar for safety.

Attachment 4651 Attachment 4653

And the bead broke with ease. Turn the wheel over and break the bead on the other side.

Attachment 4654

Before attempting to lever the tyre off, generously squirt a mixture off dish-washing liquid and water around the bead. In this shot you will also see a very useful full sized tyre lever, the bend and hook on one end is great for levering the the second bead off the rim. (Couldn't manage camera and that maneuver)

Attachment 4655

Starting the removal with 'trusty big lever' and then hold with foot while proceeding with another lever.

Attachment 4656

Here I'm cutting the plug off as close as possible.

Attachment 4657

Place the patch (still with its bottom cover) centrally over the wound, and mark broadly around it with chalk.

Attachment 4658

The next part is to rasp the shiny surface and any ribs off the area to be patched (no pic). I then used a vacuum to clean the inside of the tyre (in the bush a moist clean rag is ample).

Attachment 4659



EDIT: You then put your glue onto the roughened surface, wait till the surface is dry, strip the film from the "sticking" side of the patch and press-on. It is a good practice here to roll the patch to remove any chance of air being trapped, I have a small fiber-glassing roller for this purpose, but if you were diligent, pushing out from the middle of the patch with your thumb, should be ample.
Another point of note here: In the old days of tubes ( an even now as a further repair option) you would sprinkle chalk dust over the repair, preventing the excess patch glue from sticking to the tube.


Then I clean the inside of the wheel, paying particular attention to any irregularities around the bead area, which may need sanding.

Attachment 4660

(Computer is going crazy, so posting frequently) :confused:

Excellent stuff Bruza!! Thanks a million mate and keep em coming - this stuff is invaluable.

Forgot to mention earlier to mark the tyre with a reference point, the purpose being to try and get the tyre back on as close as possible to its balanced position.

Attachment 4661

Another dose of soapy water.

Attachment 4662

Then push and lever the tyre on, remembering to have it the right way around. Finishing off with a soft hammer.

Attachment 4672 Attachment 4673

After lining up with above mentioned referenced point, I am using a tie-down strap and my 12 volt pump to reseat the bead, just to make sure I can do the same in the bush. It seated far easier than I thought it would.

Attachment 4679

Pump 'er up and check for leaks over the patch and around the rim, and she's all done!

Attachment 4680 Attachment 4681

Bloody great post up mate

fantastic write up mate, this one will be a must to remember

I never knew how to fix a leak (apart from going to the shop) thanks for the info.

Great DIY post mate, pics and info is perfect!

Top post mate, this is what it's all about, SHARING knowledge with those who had no idea of how to "save yourself" in difficult situations.
Good on ya and thanks.

Thank you for the nice comments folks. It's always good to 'give a bit back', and thanks to "toddrhind" for leading me to "Fotosizer", makes uploading much easier.

Please note edits on first post, particularly the second one.

Learn something everyday on this forum....thanks for the write up and pics

Mate this is what this forums all about................. Top post & thanks for taking the time to do it, im sure it will help many.


Cheers
Paul

Please note a further edit on post #4

Great info mate. Thanks

good pictorial realy like the bead breaker

Good Handy to know Stuff Thanx for the post Mate

Good posts....BUT....these are only temporary repairs and for a vehicle to continue to be roadworthy (and third party compulsory insurance and your comprehensive insurance, etc. to continue to be completely valid) the tyre should be either (a) replaced; or (b) repaired by service personnel trained for that job.

That is not to say that you will get a better job done - there is the possibility that the job might be worse - the certainty is that you are entitled to expect that the work is "fit for the purpose" i.e. for your safety, the safety of your family and the safety of all other drivers. Absent that 'entitlement', if the excrement hits the fan for any reason (not necessarily your fault), you would have few rights to pursue e.g. to rebut a claim against you for negligence.

If the repair gets you out of the bush, terrific. Good and all as "plugs", etc. may be the manufacturers limit their liability by spelling out the "temporariness" of the repair. The tyre ought be professionally repaired or junked.

Same goes for wheels with rims that have been hammered back into shape.

watched a DVD with a bloke from Coopers tyres demonstrating the cord type plug - there were some circumstances where in his opinion, it was necessary to file/ream the puncture, and others where the file/reamer did more damage to the belts.

From memory, if it was something smooth like a nail that made the hole, he was suggesting no filing/reaming. He also mentioned that there are more than one diameter of cord plugs.

Finally, they all seem to stress getting the tyre professionally assessed and one of those mushroom type rubber plug patches installed ASAP.

Thanks for a great set of photos and for the info!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by roofy

good pictorial realy like the bead breaker

---

Thanks Roofy.
Yes I was very pleased with how the bead breaker performed, and really simple to make.
When touring I really like things that can be used for more than one purpose, in this case it gives the jack another purpose.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tkn

Good posts....BUT....these are only temporary repairs and for a vehicle to continue to be roadworthy (and third party compulsory insurance and your comprehensive insurance, etc. to continue to be completely valid) the tyre should be either (a) replaced; or (b) repaired by service personnel trained for that job.

That is not to say that you will get a better job done - there is the possibility that the job might be worse - the certainty is that you are entitled to expect that the work is "fit for the purpose" i.e. for your safety, the safety of your family and the safety of all other drivers. Absent that 'entitlement', if the excrement hits the fan for any reason (not necessarily your fault), you would have few rights to pursue e.g. to rebut a claim against you for negligence.

If the repair gets you out of the bush, terrific. Good and all as "plugs", etc. may be the manufacturers limit their liability by spelling out the "temporariness" of the repair. The tyre ought be professionally repaired or junked.

Same goes for wheels with rims that have been hammered back into shape.

---

Yes tkn, the repair is really aimed at "getting you out of the scrub", as noted in the post the tyre has already given me 80 odd thousand kilometers, and is now delegated as a second spare. I am happy with its repair in that appropriation.

On another note, I purchased my patches and glue from a professional (if that word doesn't over qualify) tyre repair outfit, and it's what they use. I mean, it's not brain surgery.

great stuff to know when in a rock n a hard place, thanks mate

Thanks Bruza very handy info for those times in need. Just hope I don't need to use ;)

Love your work mate !

I've done heaps of these on my motorcycle when touring South East Asia. I never did a front tyre, only ever the rear. Apparently when you run over a nail with the front tyre, it makes the nail stand up and then it goes into the rear tyre.

I had this down to a fine art - less than 1 minute to remove nail, roughen, insert plug.

Fortunately motorcycle tyres aren't as tough as car tyres.

You can't tour on a bike like that! What about the postie bikes? :) :)

I have a Postie Bike in PNG, which I ride around the university campus where I work. Have just bought a second one, that will be arriving in about four weeks.

Oh, and I have a BMW R1200GS (like the one in the picture) in NZ, another in PNG, and a BMW R1200GSA in Australia. :-)

Hey guys,

One of my good mates is a professional tyre fitter, the only think bruza did wrong was the type of patch he used.

Bruza great thread you used all the correct techniques one would used when you have not much at hand in terms of shop equipment. To do it properly you need to use these patch http://www.rema-tiptop.com.au/portal...041,116334.rtt .

Bruza, brilliant post I commend your work and your efforts with sharing with the class.

To those that jump up and down with the legality and that's not right way to do it, really common we are not building rocket ships here.

Awesome post mate I have used the plug type to repair a puncture while out bush. Once repaired took it back to full pressure and put one of my spares back on the car and the damaged one where the spare was just to monitor the the repair to make sure it worked properly. I ran that same tyre on the car for another yr&1/2 and had no issues ( not to say there couldn't have been). I was not aware of the patch repair things, those look good.


Sent from my iPhone using Motorculture mobile app

that is a great step by step. invaluable. cheers