Hey guys iv been trying to bleed my td42 but cannot get fluid to come out the master cylinder as we are bleeding it does this mean time for a new one?
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Hey guys iv been trying to bleed my td42 but cannot get fluid to come out the master cylinder as we are bleeding it does this mean time for a new one?
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Are you saying nothing comes out of the bleed nipple?
Is it loose enough to get the bleeding brake oil out as you pump?
What sort of bleeding method are you using? Vacuum pump or bleed bottle while pumping the brake pedal?
Trying to bleed the line off the clutch master cylinder and cannot get fluid to pump out while some one pumps the clutchQuote:
Originally Posted by dom14
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Anyone pls help me
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i know it is a silly question but is there fluid in the resivour. where are you trying to bleed it from, at the master cylinder or the slave cylinder. if the fluid becomes contaminated it can sometimes form a gunk plug at the hole where the fluid goes into the master cylinder, it might pay to clean out the resivour
Yeah mate got fluid in the resivour it is very gunky im thinkin from a mix of dot 3 and 4 done it wat would i use to clean it with?Quote:
Originally Posted by nipagu7
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Dot 3, dot 4 and 5.1 are made with the same base (glycol) and are compatible, but dot 5(silicon) is not.
You can add a dot 4 to a dot 3 system, and dot 5.1 to a dot 4 system, but never the other way around.
Is there any rust visible in the system at all?
I have always used new brake fluid as a cleaner. You might want to buy a cheap syringe to suck the gunk out of the line.
yeah, as mudnut says, get a cheap syringe or a piece of clear tube 4mm diameter about 500mm long and suck it out, be careful not to injest it, is nasty stuff. i usually wipe the resivour clean with a lint free cloth before refilling. if the fluid still does not go thru, see if you can pressurise the resivour a little some how. if still no go the master cylinder might need a over haul.
Would i be able to use a air gun
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Not advisable . If you don't have a moisture separator or trap after the compressor and if you have an in-line oiler, you will further contaminate the system. Take the bleed nipple out and check its not blocked.
Must be blocked i took the line completely understand off the master cylinder and no fluid comes out when i pump it, if there was a problem with the vacuum setup then would that make the brakes play up aswell given there on the same vacuum line because the brakes are fine?
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If it is gunked up that badly, maybe it is time for a new system, or a good one from the wreckers.
If it were the vacuum would my brakes also play up
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Time for some advice from @nissannewby or one of the other TD42 Gurus.
Would be solving your master cyl prob first up.Quote:
Originally Posted by my93maverick
As mudnut suggested:Anyway remove your master cyl have a good look then decide on replacement.Quote:
maybe it is time for a new system, or a good one from the wreckers
Remove it from the car , trying not to move the push rod that comes throuh the fire wall , remove the circlip that holds the piston in , take the piston out , chances are its fubar and filings off it are blocking the bleeder , buy new master and slave ( as it will probably poop it self soon ) and a new flex hose ,prime and fill the master on the bench before fitting ,then bleed the system at the slave , and done for the next 10 - 15 years . Did mine last week .
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So got the master off is the piston ment to be pushed in like this still? http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/12/76.jpg
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Or wat about this dodgy looking rod that acts like its neck is brocken lolhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/12/77.jpg
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I pushed the rod back in seems ok now is this normal?
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Having no direct experience with your veh so info provided for thought.
All this brown like gunk in the housing that where you are supporting the push rod, is it moisture ingress mixing with brake fluid? If so, it appears your master cyl piston is gone or maybe it is some old grease / moisture mix . The rod wobbling around is more than likely behaving that way as it provides a means for it to allign for assy and operation.
Look, it is a bit hard to see bore condition but really it is probaly getting past it so might be easier and cheaper in the long run to buy that new master and slave cyl (trouble free for a while). What ever way you choose flush your lines with new fluid prior to hooking up to slave. Gunk and moisture is more than likely to be in the line.
Awesome thanks heaps for all the info guys i do appreciate it as im a very novice mechanic, will put the new master on purchase and see how we go fingers crossedQuote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
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OK if only Master Cyl, still disconnect at line at slave cyl and flush the sys thru with new brake fluid very well and then hook up slave and bleed.Quote:
Originally Posted by my93maverick
As above, but go ahead and use the air compress on the line when it is disconnected from both ends, then flush it out thoroughly with fluid before reconnecting it.
Considering there appears to have been a blockage (more than likely though at m/cyl), but to prevent any crud at all that may be present in the actual line from plugging up with the force of the compressed air. It maybe safer to first attempt a flush thru with brake fluid using the m/cyl then air and back to fluid to get rid of any moisture from condesation?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Just picked up my new master cylinder $115 will pur it in this arvy and see how we go
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Ok guys so update is i got the new master cylinder in i can get it to the point where there is about 1 inch of pedal on the clutch but if i leave it in gear with the clutch in he car starts to creep fowards and lose the clutch but if i rake it out of gear then select it its ok still only little clutch and starts to feel abit crunchy three quarters of the way down nothing like it used to be?
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Have you bled the air out of the system?
We did but it might need some more im just not sure what the crunchy type feeling is in the pedalQuote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
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Did you prime the master before fitting ? How is the flex hose , does it bulge when the peddle is pushed , did you bleed it at the slave ? Is the slave doing it's thing ? That gunk will be in the whole system .
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Hi gaddy i didnt know how to prime the master first and what flex hose are uou talking about, slave is doing its this just feels weird and doesn't hold when in gear plus only have like 1 inch of clutchQuote:
Originally Posted by gaddy
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Did you apply a bit of multi-purpose grease to the push pin and the sliding surface on the dust seal at the master cylinder? There must be air and crud in the slave cylinder for it to be getting stuck. Download the manual and have a look at the clutch section so you can see how it all goes back together
you didn't shake the brake fluid bottle before you topped up the master cyl reserve did you. if you did this can airate the fluid and can take a while to settle and bleed out.