G'day all. Apart from a plate on one engine mount, will a TB45/48 and all of the running gear fit into a GQ without having to have it engineered?
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G'day all. Apart from a plate on one engine mount, will a TB45/48 and all of the running gear fit into a GQ without having to have it engineered?
Can a mod please change the heading of this thread to GU into GQ, thank you.
Yes mate it will bolt straight up. No Engineering needed. Wheel track will change. Worth grabbing the front diff too. Ratio will be different.
If you want to use your diff centres you need to make sure the GU diff is a H233 and not a H260 which is bigger and won't take your centre.
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I was under the impression that the TB45 while similar to the TB42, was about 2 or 3 inches higher and you would need a body lift so you can close the bonnet
the TB48 is bigger again
Just thinking of a plan of action. The RB30 needs some work and the gearbox is noisey, so I was looking at buying a wrecked U and swapping over the running gear.
If the vehicle did not come with the motor in question as an option mate, it will have to be engineered. Id dare say without scowling through the VSB's, even putting GU diffs in would "require" engineering. I didnt need engineering when I did the TD conversion, but, as there was minor chassis work done, cut off the old mounts and relocate and weld the new ones in, this required engineering.
For whats its worth I was charged $1600 for a full engineers report, e.g, every mod done to me Patrol was certified, even down to the removal of the two rear dickie seats, which in turn gave me an extra 180kgs to the GVM.
As above Craig, if the engine is not from the GQ series it will need to be certified. GVM might change also I suspect. Find a VASS engineer and ask them, problem solved.
Thanks for all your replies. It will be too much trouble to muck around. I have found a block at Smart Parts, and they said they will pull the harmonic balancer off so I can see it has not stripped out the timing cam/sprocket. The next option is to swap in a TB 42 and gearbox.
Yep, tb45 and 48 will need engineering, Chuck in a TB42E and turbo the buggah ;)
That makes a lot of sense, Clunk. No timing belt, no carby to run out of fuel on a steep hill, a stronger gear box, and a bit of grunt.
I haven't got an issue with the power of the guinea pig, just sick of worrying about a problem with the crank and timing belt set up. It has been stuffed up by a mechanic who must have used a rattle gun to torque the crankshaft bolt instead of using a torque wrench. I have driven it wondering when it will let go. I had a good mechanic check it out yesterday and he reckons run it for a couple of years as is and deal with it then. It seems I was lucky enough to clamp the stripped plate into the chewed out groove. It ain't pretty but it has survived so far.
A bearing in the cluster (1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th) is whining pretty badly. Change into 4th and the silence is deafening.
When I changed out the gear oil there was a fair bit of metal stuck to the magnet.
I have another gearbox still sitting at a mates place, waiting for him to check out what has let go.
Two gearboxes failing in 20000 ks of each other is BS! Would love to upgrade to the larger box.
Mate, that makes no sense. Good running RB30 gearboxes go for peanuts.
I could've bought a good one from a local known bloke for $150 & I didn't 'cos mine's running fine.
From what I know you don't go around seeking mud holes and sand dunes to thrash the gearbox and diff around.
And what I've heard so far, your diff has never failed. Mine did in 2014.
Dunno, but may be mine was rebuilt by the previous bloke, but I don't think RB30 gearbox is anywhere near
as bad many says.
Something's not right with what's happening to you.
Either some other area of the drivetrain is putting stress on the gearbox or both times for some weird reason you ended
up with bad ones.
Only way you gonna get a larger box is obviously by going for a TB42/45/48.
From what I've heard, it's the synchros in gearbox that fail, but not sure as I've never opened up a gearbox, yet.
I've never used a torque wrench on a crank bolt, I doubt most mechanics do.
Most likely the mechanic did a half hearted job when it came to tightening it.
BTW @mudnut I must tell you that I've undone and tightened the crank bolt somewhere between 10-15 times in last six years, no exaggeration. I only started to be careful with rechecking it last couple of years after a discussion in the other forum about RD28 crank bolt coming loose and guy's replacing it with a new one. Even though I didn't go that far, I give it a quite a tightening with a long breaker bar.
I can't remember why I had to undo it that many times, but half of that would be doing it to check something rather than fixing anything.