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Hey Guys,
I'm wondering whether there is a cheaper alternative to body filler!!!
It's not for a vehicle. It's for a steel structure that I'm trying to fill the imperfect areas with a
cheaper filler and paint over it. So, it must be sticking to steel pretty well, but doesn't need to last
forever like auto body filler(bog). I have to use heaps of it, so auto bog can get pretty expensive.
Any suggestions please?
Thanx
Dom
More info needed DOM.
Is the surface corroded or simply has a lot of minor changes in height or holes in it?
Is the surface horizontal or inclined/vertical?
How long do you want the surface to last, how flat does it need to be and is in inside or out in the weather?
Does the surface need to take any loads? Does it need to be cosmetic in finished appearance and will it be exposed to any contaminants or chemical attack?
Can the surface be 'boxed on the sides' to allow a self levelling pour coating to be applied? What sort of environment will the surface be applied in - external, subject to ambient temps or in a covered area like a building where you can control temps and humidity?
Approx dimensions for the coated area and approx fill depths would help also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Hi Phil,
Yes, there are corroded parts, but I can do a good job with fair bit of electric wirebrushing to remove the rust.
Yes, there are holes, but not bigger than 5-6mm or so.
Surface is facing all directions, horizontal and vertical, but not much in incline.
If it can last two to three years without peeling off the steel, then it's good enough for me.
Not too fussy about the flatness though I would like to filler to be able sand to smooth it out like typical auto body filler(if possible).
Yes, it can be outside weather at times, but most in the garage.
Surface doesn't need to take any loads.
I'll be spraying paint over it, so yet, some degree of cosmetic good looks might help.
It's not subject to any chemical attacks afaict.
The filler has to be applied in outdoors and I'm hoping for a good sunny day. :)
I'm not quite sure how to come up with an estimation of an approximate area(s) that need to be coated, but suffice to say it will be a fair bit. :)
Depth can be upto a 5mm in some areas, I reckon.(different size steel bars fused together).
Now, I might as well tell you what this "structure" I'm talking about.
It is a unusually large and tall cage for a trailer that I built as a storage, but using scrap metal.
But, I may have to in rare occasion or two take it on the road, so I would like to avoid any undue attraction from
highway cops. If they see the imperfections, I fear they pick on it.
It is strong one. Not a weak, rattling one, but I didn't pay lot of attention to the cosmetic finish, and as a result it looks bit rough.
There are quite a few holes in the steel bars I used and there are fusions of different sizes, which I'm hoping to "level" out
using a somewhat cheaper bog.
I will remove the cage, eventually from the trailer. :)
Actually, there are few other backyard projects as well that I'm trying to improve the looks using a somewhat cheaper body filler than typical auto body filler. They are outdoor stuff, yes.
OK, I would wire wheel or blast off what you can of the surface rust. I would not worry about surface finish at all. Use a rust neutraliser to begin with then seal with a primer and top coat using a HAMMERTONE paint finish. This is avail in a range of colours, and by default has a semi 'fish-eye' non flat surface finish - its designed to hide surface imperfections and can be applied with brush, roller of spray gun. By the time you have done 2 coats it will be shiney and look the part.
Trying to backfill will be a waste of time and effort in my mind as you will really need a bead blast finish then immediate primer coat on tops of that, then a high build filler base, plus its likely that the larger holes would need to be metal filled as the paint finish won't cover these. I would doubt you would get a good bond of the paint - its 100% depending on the preparation to get the initial stick, then you could build from there, but it would be worse than a labour of love in my opinion..
Thanx mate.
You obviously know the paint business pretty well. :)
I was hoping to get away with minimum labour and just enough looks. :)
I'm beginning to understand the project is lot bigger than I thought.
It's not too hard to put together few pieces of metal with a welder.
It's lot harder to make it look cool. :D
Can I ask what you meant by "would not worry about surface finish"?
Did you mean I don't have to work my butt off to remove all the rust?
"Rust neutralizer" is a paint? or is it something else?
Thanx
P.S. I'm a totally total newbee when it comes to painting/restoring, so the learning curve will be steep climb. :)
Is this a filler that is good enough for my applications? It looks el cheapo enough for my humble project(s) now & future.
I wonder whether the whole container has to be used once it's opened or whether I can keep it without going hard and use it over few weeks or even months!!!
I have a vague memory of a body filler going hard after I used a bit of it and shut the lid and left it on the garage shelf for few weeks or few months.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Auto-Car....c100005.m1851
The rust neutraliser is a chemical that works to bond the reactive metal within the corrosive cycle, and stops it interacting at a molecular level. Its sort of like making the surface non reactive, sealing it so no more rust or degradation can occur. You need to remove as much of the surface flakie that you can, but a good liberal coating or two of the neutraliser will normally arrest the corrosion. then seal it up and top coat. So you want a hard flake free finish basically. The rust neutraliser is sold at Bunnings in 500ml, 1000ml and 4l containers - its expensive, but usually works in a single application. It a free flowing liquid like water, and you will see the surface change colour within seconds/minutes. Wear good quality gloves and eyewear - it hurts.Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Hey Dom, a good coat of blue paint (or four) should keep the rozzers at bay well it works for me , I'm not exactly sure what's holding this one together but I get quite a few full loads of wood with it every year .
Attachment 73630Attachment 73629Attachment 73631Attachment 73632
I cut the floor out and replaced it with treated pine boards, about 20 years ago. The only good component left is the boards!
Hammertone is great. You can roll it on which will save you cash on wasted paint. It's thick and forgiving.
Haha that's like mine. Got some quarterminus from the garden shop and was pouring out while i stood there, had to take off quick so there was some left when I got home [emoji28]Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
No kidding mate. The stuff these 2k costing 8x5 trailers are made of are crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
They turn in derelict rust buckets in no time unless check and fix the appearing rust
Hi mate @GQtdauto, my apologies for getting your post mixed up with Rossco. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
I was going to paint black( :D ), now I'm changing my mind following your advice.
Blue is the diverting attention colour indeed. :D
I managed to upset a local highway patrol cop by taking him to court coupla years ago and nailing him. :D ;)
He tried to be friends with me as he's living just down the road, but I went into hiding 'cos I figured the non of the fourby mob here or anywhere ain't gonna like me if I"m friends with a cop. ;)
That's why I got to make sure the trailer is attractive(sort of). ;)
And look at the places that completely rusted through. It shouldn't do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Mine's the same which I patched up with pieces of sheet metal. :)
Unless you build your own trailer with good material, it ain't gonna last. :D
These are the weld joints I'm trying to smooth out as well as few other spots where round steel pipes joint each other where I didn't do a good job with cosmetic beauty even though I did a good job in terms of weld joint strength.
Actually DOM there are a few hardnut by the book cops but most of the ones I know will just give a warning depending on circumstance so they're not all bad mate , jack your fourby up 8" and remove the muffler then speed past any of them and you'd be asking for it .Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
I don't think this site is anti cop ( except one Northeast town) we may have the odd yokel but that's it .
Some people do have trouble from time to time ,right or wrong if you've been hardly done by the ombudsman will usually sort it out .
Not a cop not pro or anti cop but know if I'm in trouble they are the first people you ring .
Not having a dig at you either DOM just saying .
Sometimes something old can look ok just with a fresh coat of paint and not draw attention , just make sure it's sound and not about to fall to bits and the lights all work you should have no trouble mate .
Geez mate that's shockers 10 out of 10 for effort but -1 for welding ability, I'm sure you live near me mate so one day I'll show you how to do it a bit better .Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
If you had a TIG you could just go over that and fusion weld it to make it look better and would also make it stronger .
Sorry mate. It's an arc welder with crappy sticks and in a hurry as well(again :) ). (excuse excuse)Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
MIG welding is bit too much trouble atm with too much wire brushing & no bottle atm.
I reckon your advice to use TIG later to smooth it out is a good idea, but that means lot of wirebrushing and cleaning as well. :D
I'll see how it comes.
BTW, the metal I used are scrap ones with odd sizes that hangs around the backyard. :)
Not at all mate, I'm not anti cop & I am sure this site isn't either.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
I only had a disagreement with a one as above which we sorted out.
I was joking about not being with mates with him. :)
If the welds haven't been painted over yet no need for wire brush just crank the Tig up and away you go , but you need gas for a Tig as well .Quote:
Originally Posted by dom14
Other option is oxy acetylene if you can borrow or have a set .
Sent you a pm Dom .
Thanx mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
I remember you gave me some good advice regarding TIG last time. I have a DC TIG machine. I'm yet to acquire an AC one(which is a one I want badly for my aluminium projects :) ). I don't have a bottle yet either, but I've been working on getting a good AC TIG machine first. With the troll giving me craps, things to do with TIG welding got put off. Now I'm getting back to it.
It's pretty hard to arc weld thin pipes with paint on it without blowing holes on them mate(when I don't have enough experience with that). And it's even harder when I have to weld two different thickness & two different types of steel(one being gal and one being powder coated or rusted. I discovered even the painted/powder coated pieces were gal, so I had to deal with lot of toxic fumes & wear the hanky over my nose :)). So, it took me ridiculous amount of time to weld the thing. I purposely put extra weld beads on top of each other to strengthen the seemingly weak beads(of course, that's not good practice :) )
I bought a chunk of el cheapo arc sticks(2.5mm 6013) that is not so good even with the inverter welder, but had to use them up.
Find a 3 year old to throw some glitter at those welds and own it like a boss!!
Cold-gal in a can is always a good choice 😎