Well the winch has been purchased and now I am looking for advice/howto etc regarding installing an isolation switch so it doesn't get turned on by accident.
Any advice, pictures, instructions would be gratefully appreciated.
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Well the winch has been purchased and now I am looking for advice/howto etc regarding installing an isolation switch so it doesn't get turned on by accident.
Any advice, pictures, instructions would be gratefully appreciated.
Simplest option is an Isolator at the battery.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Auto-Car-...wAAOSwo4pYh0N9
If you want a switch style...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-RV-Bo...MAAOSwx6pYtnHR
or you can put in a hi current relay style
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-RV-Bo...MAAOSwx6pYtnHR
Links for illustrative purposes only... and whatever option you choose remember your winch can, in some circumstances, pull upwards of 500 amps
You mean by accident or on purpose , brother in law has a master switch fitted under the bonnet because he heard from a mate that heard it from another mate that someone they knew left their forby to go for a walk and when they got back someone had used a paper clip to hot wire the plug and put the hook end over the car onto the tow bar and turned it on until it crushed the cab enough to spring the doors open then ransacked the car .
My elcheapo Aldi winch has an isolator and also if you select auto the cable plug becomes inoperative .
A big enough isolator switch can be bought from super cheap but not sure how you could accidentally turn the winch on .
I have struggled to find an isolation switch that will take 400amps for anything over a minute of so - have melted a couple. For ultimate protection, simply take the power lead to the winch off the battery and attach it when required or you are heading out 4WDing. I doubt any of us really needs it connected 100% of the time and i reckon i have used my winch once in 5yrs. You are then assured of a good clean connection if you do it correctly. The more connections between the winch and battery the more opportunity for resistance and heat build=up.
Agree ^^^
FWIW my winch is on a cradle with front and rear mounts and Anderson Plugs and it gets used for moving shit around more than recovery.
When I want to use it I plug the sucker in the appropriate end of me truck.
For about $100 or so you can get switch style isolators rated 2000 amp inst, 1000 amps for 1 minute, 400 amps continuous IIRC.
I used them at work on the boats a few years back "Blue Sea" brand or somesuch.
Not worth the hassle or expense for recreational 4X4 use tho IMHO
I would simply put an isolation switch for the power on the switching side of the solenoid into the control circuit.. Easy to do with low current back to a carling switch.
I'd your really keen to fit a high current switch then the Bluesea BLU 3001 I think it is will handle the current with ease.
Thanks again for the input guys.
Sometimes the best idea is really the simplest.
Keep the power cable disconnected until I go bush.
Done and very cheap.
I will look into MudRunner's idea a bit more as an isolator inside the cabin may be a good emergency stop method.
The down side to installing an isolation on the switching side of t he solenoid is it works best id the solenoid is not bolted to the top of trhe winch. It is a low current circuit though and without power to the winch solenoid you'd have to hot wire across the motor terminals.
The Bluesea BLU3001 will isolate the winch from the battery. The link above allowing you to simply disconnect the winch power under the bonnet is fine too just remember to hook it back up before going off road.
In my GU I have isolated the switching circuit only and have switched it under the bonnet . On the GQ i have an isolation switch in the cab for the switching side of the solenoid and also fitted the BLU3001 as a safety kill switch for the 24v system to the winch
Yeah... onya Mudrunner... knew I was on track altho I was wrong on the specs, those Blue Sea Isolators are what I used a while back on the work boat winches.
Higher ratings than the Cole Hersee equiv and still working after 4 or 5 years
I found an old thread (2011) where you explained isolating the hand controller wires. There was an image however that is now not being shown by Photobucket.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Any chance you still have that image?
Yeah I will somewhere. Photobucket has created kaos across the forum. At least 5 years of my post would of have been hosted there. Can you quote me there and I will see if I can back door it to find the specific image on my photobucketQuote:
Originally Posted by Mc4by
I agree with your issue with Photobucket.
We're having massive probs here in the UK also..
On thread.. Anderson connectors under the bonnet, just connect when needed.
I use one of these on the negative post of the battery to isolate the winch power ...........
Is it viable to put a switch to the controller wires rather than the bigger winch to battery wires?
That way it is only a small switch and nothing works if the controller isn't active.
yes that is what i was saying. Much easier to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mc4by
I used an IB-500 amp relay the same as this in my Pajero. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Install-B...-/131350135835
I bought it back when the exchange rate was a lot better, I've since removed it from the Paj and will install it in the Patrol when I get around to it. Makes it easy to flip a switch in the cab for winch power and with it off there is no worries about a high current live wire to the winch being on 24/7. A simple isolator will do the same thing, but what can I say, I'm a lazy bastard and I don't need to lift the bonnet to flip a switch
Agree ^^^^
If you want to go to the bother of isolating then IMHO the hi-current is the go.
Accomplishes the same as a switch in the lo voltage control circuit but has further advantages.
I would think you would still have an earth path via the bullbar/winch casing and earth strap from battery? If anything this isolation should be on the positive I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by bazzaboy
If you wire the solenoid & winch ground wires via this battery isolator , the winch will not operate. It's a cheap and reliable option.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Yes, agree, I should have been clearer in my message.Quote:
Originally Posted by bazzaboy
I agree with the idea of total battery isolation for three main reasons. 1- The security aspect - no one can muck about with it. 2- Should a cable rattle off you won't have a high current cable shorting out somewhere and 3- Should you have a front end bingle you again won't have high current wires shorting out.
I use the twist type isolator that sits in line with the main winch cable - but removing the cable is a cheap and simple option.